Q's on winter storage
#1
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Hi, this is my first winter with my trans am and would like some input on what procedures to take with storing it. I will be storing it in my barn wihich is sealed off from the elements but not heated and will be sitting on a cement pad with a heavy duty car cover on it. Now what does everybody do to them to insure they will start right up the next spring with no problems. I was thinking of filling it full of some non ethonal fuel, put some fuel stabilizer in it, fresh oil change and put a battery tender on the battery and starting it up and letting it get up to temperature every other week or so. Any other info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
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The non ethanol gas is a bigger deal than most people think, I didn't even us Stabil in either of my cars last winter and they both ran just as good as the day I parked them. I just switched my battery tender from one car to the other every month. I wont even put ethanol in my lawn mower. Also I wouldn't worry about getting flat spots in your tires after just sitting over the winter, they'll round out after a few miles.
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- No need to start the car every week just to let it run. If you're not going to drive it, then just leave it dormant for the winter.
- Unless the oil needs to be changed anyway, I just wait until spring to change it.
- You could do the full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 6-8 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
Other stuff I do....
- Stabil in the gas.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~15 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
- Unless the oil needs to be changed anyway, I just wait until spring to change it.
- You could do the full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 6-8 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
Other stuff I do....
- Stabil in the gas.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~15 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
#6
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RPM is 100% correct. I have been storing my car in winter for the past 4 years. I do exactly what he does except I do use a battery tender full time. NEVER had any issues. OP sounds like you have a pretty good plan.
#7
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Hi, this is my first winter with my trans am and would like some input on what procedures to take with storing it. I will be storing it in my barn wihich is sealed off from the elements but not heated and will be sitting on a cement pad with a heavy duty car cover on it. Now what does everybody do to them to insure they will start right up the next spring with no problems. I was thinking of filling it full of some non ethonal fuel, put some fuel stabilizer in it, fresh oil change and put a battery tender on the battery and starting it up and letting it get up to temperature every other week or so. Any other info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
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#8
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A somewhat cheap remedy for the cement floor is some inexpensive indoor/outdoor carpeting. Not only is it a partial barrier to the cold and moisture but it helps ease the flat spot issues. I paid about $120 for a section of this type carpeting at Lowe's. It was the size of a full one car garage and you might even be able to get a smaller size for less than that.
No ethanol gas and Sta-bil are the way to go for the fuel system. If the temps are going to get real cold use a bottle of HEET which will also help to prevent freezing. It is only about $2 at Walmart.
No ethanol gas and Sta-bil are the way to go for the fuel system. If the temps are going to get real cold use a bottle of HEET which will also help to prevent freezing. It is only about $2 at Walmart.
#11
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I have never used stabil when i store it but always have started it every so often and never has problems storing the last 5 years but thinking about using it this time i guess its because i dont know anything about the stabil.
#14
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If you don't change your oil before you park it, at least get it good and hot before your let it sit for good. That way any moisture or other nasty's get burned out before storage.
Also, another alternative to help with the flat spots, is to simply put a few pieces of cardboard stacked up under the tires. It doesn't take much to have 2-3 layers sitting underneath the contact area and it has to help some (at least as much as carpet).
Also, another alternative to help with the flat spots, is to simply put a few pieces of cardboard stacked up under the tires. It doesn't take much to have 2-3 layers sitting underneath the contact area and it has to help some (at least as much as carpet).