high impact

iTrader: (5)

You have three choices: Forced induction, nitrous or big cubes. Only one choice if you insist on sticking with N/A and this choice does not include retaining your ls1.

Ryans99ls1

iTrader: (16)

Only way to 700hp with an ls1 is through nitrous or FI. Low boost with a D1 will get you between 450-550 depending on your other mods.

Mine has been quite happy with FI

Whiplash88

Ive thought about building the bottom end and doing FI. how does yours handle?

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

Forged internals and boost to your LS1 will be the least expensive, most reliable and most streetable option to reach 700 hp. Of course at that power level the rest of the car will have to be built as well, drivetrain, suspension, chassis, brakes, etc. You're looking at A LOT of money for a car like that. Even a 500whp n/a 346 c.i. LS1 will not likely be very friendly to drive on the street. Good luck whichever route you take!

Ryans99ls1

iTrader: (16)

Well mine is a stock bottom end buts it has taken every ounce of abuse I've thrown at it. Over a year at 600+ wheel and the last few months over 700 wheel. Its highway car too so most pulls are 2-4th gear. E85 and my tune are the only reasons it's still alive. It hasn't been cheap but its less expensive than an all out n/a build and ive got plenty of room to grow

USMC5811

iTrader: (2)

Research!!!!!

redtan

iTrader: (5)

He ain't gonna see anywhere near 560rwhp on 8lbs of boost. Hell, he ain't seeing anywhere near 500rwhp on 8lbs of boost.

On a stock longblock 346 he's probably going to be mid 400s at the wheels. Maybe with some good heads, blower cam and LTs he will see over 500rwhp.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Stock long block, yes, 450rwhp (mid 400s) 350rwhp has some mods obviously since stock LS1s dyno anywhere from 280-310rwhp. 60% increase over 280rwhp equals 448rwhp, so close to that 450rwhp mark.

spordee1

iTrader: (22)

After 400 RWHP conventional drivability goes out of the window. Keep lobe separation at 114. Duration at 230. Lift at .600. That is just about the max for durability, performance, and decent drivability. When you go beyond this, plan to build a whole new mechanical car.

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

Sorry but this is not exactly true in all cases. For example there's one car in my garage and one right down the road which beg to differ. Both are 346ci, one has 430+whp the other 440+whp, both 230s durations, .630/.610 & .625/.600 lift, 111 LSA, relatively soft ramp rates (Bullet cams) for valvetrain longevity, both have buttery smooth driveability, no where near rough at all to drive on the street.