best motor oil and rear end gear oil?
11-09-2015, 03:41 PM
#21
I've had many many bad experiences with M1 gear oil. I don't care if Nascar and your grandmother uses it, ITS CRAP in a bottle. I've repaired many rears that had M1 in them and its always the same problems. Bearings are flat worn out! I'll tell you a real joke is Ford F350 dually's use that as the factory fill. You should see the rears after 75k miles of towing with that crap in them. All the bearings including the axles bearings are worn badly, seals leaking. I've seen rears that had 10k on them properly setup using M1 that the carrier bearings toast. Replace the bearings and oil with even the cheapest dino oil and never have a problem again.
1st time ever used M1 gear oil after I put contents of the bottle in I noticed the bottle had a thick black coating on bottom of the bottle. So I cut the bottle open and examined it......IT WAS THE MOLY MIGRATED out of the oil and settled in the bottom of the bottle! I SHEEET you not. I called Mobil and asked about and they told me it was NORMAL for their oil to do this!
Not in my rear NO WAY!
11-09-2015, 04:05 PM
#22
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Smart to listen to your builder. I like to mix Amsoil severe gear with regular high quality Rotella gear oil @ 50/50. This combo gives me the cold flow I want with great high load protection. My rears look like new even after 100k.
I've had many many bad experiences with M1 gear oil. I don't care if Nascar and your grandmother uses it, ITS CRAP in a bottle. I've repaired many rears that had M1 in them and its always the same problems. Bearings are flat worn out! I'll tell you a real joke is Ford F350 dually's use that as the factory fill. You should see the rears after 75k miles of towing with that crap in them. All the bearings including the axles bearings are worn badly, seals leaking. I've seen rears that had 10k on them properly setup using M1 that the carrier bearings toast. Replace the bearings and oil with even the cheapest dino oil and never have a problem again.
1st time ever used M1 gear oil after I put contents of the bottle in I noticed the bottle had a thick black coating on bottom of the bottle. So I cut the bottle open and examined it......IT WAS THE MOLY MIGRATED out of the oil and settled in the bottom of the bottle! I SHEEET you not. I called Mobil and asked about and they told me it was NORMAL for their oil to do this!
Not in my rear NO WAY!
I've had many many bad experiences with M1 gear oil. I don't care if Nascar and your grandmother uses it, ITS CRAP in a bottle. I've repaired many rears that had M1 in them and its always the same problems. Bearings are flat worn out! I'll tell you a real joke is Ford F350 dually's use that as the factory fill. You should see the rears after 75k miles of towing with that crap in them. All the bearings including the axles bearings are worn badly, seals leaking. I've seen rears that had 10k on them properly setup using M1 that the carrier bearings toast. Replace the bearings and oil with even the cheapest dino oil and never have a problem again.
1st time ever used M1 gear oil after I put contents of the bottle in I noticed the bottle had a thick black coating on bottom of the bottle. So I cut the bottle open and examined it......IT WAS THE MOLY MIGRATED out of the oil and settled in the bottom of the bottle! I SHEEET you not. I called Mobil and asked about and they told me it was NORMAL for their oil to do this!
Not in my rear NO WAY!
I guess I'll ask this one more time with a direct question:
Is the Mobile 1 gear oil you're talking about the same as "Mobile 1 LSD"?
Most companies have several different formulations of oil. I'm just trying to find out if that is the case here.........
11-09-2015, 04:39 PM
#23
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I dont know which one i have heard up and down on alot of rear end oil, i would go by factory specs but i have aftermarket 4.10 rear end in it its not factory and it is brand new 5000 miles on it. I bout it with this rear end in it and nto sure who manufacture on rear end is. i wanted to replace oil with new since it is done with it break in time. thats why this question was brought up by me.
11-09-2015, 07:59 PM
#24
Simple...put Amsoil 75-140 in it and forget about it for 100k as far as wear is concerned. Now breaking it from doing 6k clutch dumps nothing will help.
Edit: If you are using a Auburn cone clutch type carrier you CAN NOT use synthetic gear oil. NOW GET READY FOR THIS >>>>>>>HERE IT COMES...... because the cone clutches will wear into the case BECAUSE SYNTHETIC OIL DOES NOT have the lubricity of regular oil.< WHAT DOES THAT say about using synthetic gear oil? If you don't believe me look on Auburns web site.
Edit: If you are using a Auburn cone clutch type carrier you CAN NOT use synthetic gear oil. NOW GET READY FOR THIS >>>>>>>HERE IT COMES...... because the cone clutches will wear into the case BECAUSE SYNTHETIC OIL DOES NOT have the lubricity of regular oil.< WHAT DOES THAT say about using synthetic gear oil? If you don't believe me look on Auburns web site.
Last edited by RockinWs6; 11-09-2015 at 08:08 PM.
11-09-2015, 08:03 PM
#25
Same thing, do what makes you feel all fuzzy inside. If you think Nascar uses it LOL use it. I personally would use ANYTHING else but what do I know?
11-09-2015, 08:18 PM
#26
I should add something here. As far as synthetic gear oils go Amsoil is the only one I would use without question. BUT my own personal experience tells me you can't beat good old regular gear oil. For the best of both worlds Mix them. The synthetic gives you the protection you need in cold weather and the regular oil has the lubricity so the bearings live long.
Valvoline has a good mix called synthetic blend. I've used that and had good results but I still feel the Amsoil is the Ultimate in gear oil.
Another plus with the Amsoil is seal life and reduced seal leakage. Example I was working on a high mileage Jeep over 200k and ALL the rear seals were weeping some. After switching to Amsoil no more seal weeping. That was 100k ago.................. and the rear is still quiet. Speaks tons how good Amsoil gear oil is.
Valvoline has a good mix called synthetic blend. I've used that and had good results but I still feel the Amsoil is the Ultimate in gear oil.
Another plus with the Amsoil is seal life and reduced seal leakage. Example I was working on a high mileage Jeep over 200k and ALL the rear seals were weeping some. After switching to Amsoil no more seal weeping. That was 100k ago.................. and the rear is still quiet. Speaks tons how good Amsoil gear oil is.
Last edited by RockinWs6; 11-09-2015 at 08:23 PM.
11-10-2015, 05:12 AM
#27
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"Same thing, do what makes you feel all fuzzy inside. If you think Nascar uses it LOL use it."
I was just asking a simple question. No need for all the colorful commentary.
"...but what do I know? "
Good question.
I was just asking a simple question. No need for all the colorful commentary.
"...but what do I know? "
Good question.
Last edited by lowcountry; 11-10-2015 at 05:26 AM.
11-10-2015, 11:37 AM
#28
he cheap Auburns GM used will chatter until an additive is used. But sometimes not. It's good to add the additive anyway.
And I would not put any of that crap in my oil, there are plenty of things in even the most basic oils that you don't really need anything else.
11-10-2015, 01:00 PM
#29
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he cheap Auburns GM used will chatter until an additive is used. But sometimes not. It's good to add the additive anyway.
And I would not put any of that crap in my oil, there are plenty of things in even the most basic oils that you don't really need anything else.
You can do without the additive on the Torsen rears, but some people like to use it anyway as the owner's manual calls for it and some feel it quiets the rear a bit.
11-11-2015, 07:53 AM
#30
LOL you must live in the south lmao You asked and I responded. I just think its funny you mentioned Nascar like they know ANYTHING about gear oil. Funny stuff really.
11-11-2015, 04:49 PM
#31
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If you would read my posts, you would see that I do not endorse Nascar in any way. All I did was cite a post someone else made on another forum that was relevant to what you said - not my feelings at all... The whole reason I was asking you the question - to get other opinions - not to be berated.
You really should consider hanging out with adults more often, it may help you to communicate more effectively...
11-11-2015, 06:25 PM
#33
Lemme see if I can right this freight train running off the tracks.
Back to the OP's questions:
Many have liked and used German Castrol for many years, myself included. These days it's only in 0W-40 (which I think is GREAT for these engines prone to piston slap) and it can be had easily and economically at Walmart for around 25 bucks for a five quart jug.
Most upper shelf synthetic oils will serve you well, perform oil changes at regular intervals-or when the oil becomes dark on the stick. I too would avoid the purple stuff, it's as good as other oils but not worth the added cost. Add a decent filter like a K&N, Wix, Mobil1 Extended or better.
For my rears, I've used Lucas non-synthetic for many years-including a Savana van I owned from new that went over 200K. EVERYTHING blew up on it except the rear, never a moment's problem.
Lots of people say NOT to use a synthetic in a rear, the pressures and temps are nowhere near those of an engine.
LSD (Limited Slip Differential) additive is needed with clutch type posi rears. Not needed for Torsen or open (non-limited slip) rear ends.
Back to the OP's questions:
Many have liked and used German Castrol for many years, myself included. These days it's only in 0W-40 (which I think is GREAT for these engines prone to piston slap) and it can be had easily and economically at Walmart for around 25 bucks for a five quart jug.
Most upper shelf synthetic oils will serve you well, perform oil changes at regular intervals-or when the oil becomes dark on the stick. I too would avoid the purple stuff, it's as good as other oils but not worth the added cost. Add a decent filter like a K&N, Wix, Mobil1 Extended or better.
For my rears, I've used Lucas non-synthetic for many years-including a Savana van I owned from new that went over 200K. EVERYTHING blew up on it except the rear, never a moment's problem.
Lots of people say NOT to use a synthetic in a rear, the pressures and temps are nowhere near those of an engine.
LSD (Limited Slip Differential) additive is needed with clutch type posi rears. Not needed for Torsen or open (non-limited slip) rear ends.
11-11-2015, 06:31 PM
#34
Man, you are a trip - just don't know when to shut up.
If you would read my posts, you would see that I do not endorse Nascar in any way. All I did was cite a post someone else made on another forum that was relevant to what you said - not my feelings at all... The whole reason I was asking you the question - to get other opinions - not to be berated.
You really should consider hanging out with adults more often, it may help you to communicate more effectively...
If you would read my posts, you would see that I do not endorse Nascar in any way. All I did was cite a post someone else made on another forum that was relevant to what you said - not my feelings at all... The whole reason I was asking you the question - to get other opinions - not to be berated.
You really should consider hanging out with adults more often, it may help you to communicate more effectively...
11-11-2015, 06:44 PM
#35
Man, you are a trip - just don't know when to shut up.
If you would read my posts, you would see that I do not endorse Nascar in any way. All I did was cite a post someone else made on another forum that was relevant to what you said - not my feelings at all... The whole reason I was asking you the question - to get other opinions - not to be berated.
You really should consider hanging out with adults more often, it may help you to communicate more effectively...
If you would read my posts, you would see that I do not endorse Nascar in any way. All I did was cite a post someone else made on another forum that was relevant to what you said - not my feelings at all... The whole reason I was asking you the question - to get other opinions - not to be berated.
You really should consider hanging out with adults more often, it may help you to communicate more effectively...
11-12-2015, 12:27 AM
#37
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I'll ask all parties to let this go and keep it on track from here on out.
-ADMIN.
11-25-2015, 10:30 PM
#38
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For any lsx engine just see if bottle says GM4718 on the back sticker, which is a spec that older Corvettes required meaning that the oil could withstand high temperatures safely. Newer Dexos approved oils supersede that rating and are fine too. All of the oils I have seen that meet this are a synthetic or a blend. I believe the cheapest synthetic meeting this is Pennzoil Platinum, or Quaker State. Some oils out there might work fine and just haven't paid for the certification but why take a chance. If your engine is a custom built I would see what the engine builder recommends if the engine tolerances are different. But for a stockish lsx any 30 weight oil should be fine 5w or 0w-30 if in colder climates. Some people will swear by 0-40 weight German Castrol for track use or heavy duty use. Some people have piston slap issues, but unless you are using a really thick oil, brand differences will be negligible for helping this issue.
Gear oil gets more complicated. If you have a v6, or any open differential, any gear lube will be fine, and you'll never notice a difference. Any 75-140, 80-90, 75-90 weights etc will work. If you have a limited slip, or posi it matters what you run. The older Auburn units tend to be quieter with a NON-synthetic oil with friction modifier. The torsen rear ends don't actually have friction plates so don't technically require friction modifier, but it helps cut down on the screw rattle noise when making slow turns. I would run 75-90 or 80-90 for most applications, if you tend to run your car hard 75-140 will be better at high temperatures, or if doing trackdays. The other benefit of "thicker" gear oil is if your gears whine a little it tends to help, but won't fully cure rear end noises. Good thicker brands of oil tend to be Torco, Royal Purple, Redline, but remember don't use these brands in the older Auburn unit. If you change you oil every couple years with whatever brand and the recommended weight you should be fine. Most gear oil posts are about trying to cures noises caused by poorly installed gear setups and can't simply fixed by a "brand x" of oil. So general conclusion is don't loose sleep over the brand oil, just get the weight for your intended use and add friction modifier for limited slip applications and your golden.
Gear oil gets more complicated. If you have a v6, or any open differential, any gear lube will be fine, and you'll never notice a difference. Any 75-140, 80-90, 75-90 weights etc will work. If you have a limited slip, or posi it matters what you run. The older Auburn units tend to be quieter with a NON-synthetic oil with friction modifier. The torsen rear ends don't actually have friction plates so don't technically require friction modifier, but it helps cut down on the screw rattle noise when making slow turns. I would run 75-90 or 80-90 for most applications, if you tend to run your car hard 75-140 will be better at high temperatures, or if doing trackdays. The other benefit of "thicker" gear oil is if your gears whine a little it tends to help, but won't fully cure rear end noises. Good thicker brands of oil tend to be Torco, Royal Purple, Redline, but remember don't use these brands in the older Auburn unit. If you change you oil every couple years with whatever brand and the recommended weight you should be fine. Most gear oil posts are about trying to cures noises caused by poorly installed gear setups and can't simply fixed by a "brand x" of oil. So general conclusion is don't loose sleep over the brand oil, just get the weight for your intended use and add friction modifier for limited slip applications and your golden.