Car rebuild thread
07-26-2019, 04:37 PM
#41
I guess I overlooked this thread. Hmm, what happened since March?
* I got the car back in … early May? There were/are aggravations. Off the top of my head...
- They broke one of the e-brake rings when swapping axles, I had to buy replacements and they re-installed them for free. But the e-brake still doesn't feel as good as it did previously.
- There is a little noise with the Motive Pro 3.73 gears, but I don't know if that is setup or parts. I'm giving them the benefit of the doubt that it's the parts since this brand has mixed reviews on noise.
- The mechanical oil pressure was fine but the gauge oil pressure was wacky. They blamed it on old wiring and had both kick panels off, the cluster out and the glove box off trying to diagnose the wiring between the sender and the gauge. They eventually said it was a bad ground. In the interest of time, they setup a temp ground wire from the back of the head, to a driver side valley cover bolt, to the driver side ground bolt on the wheel well next to the ABS block. That was ugly as **** but the gauge was rock solid, no flickering. I didn't like the way that wiring was improvised and later asked them for a proper fix that looked OEM quality. They did that but now the oil pressure gauge now sometimes bounces around. Instrument cluster now has finger prints inside the clear plastic and I see a pitted or cracked soil design over the odometer digits. They had to R&R the IC again to install the odometer reset button they had overlooked.
- Battery voltage seemed real good until the last cleanup visit at the shop, where the car was there for about a week. They let me drive a beater BMW in the interim. After getting the car back, the gauge voltage sometimes creeps up and down, seems to be worse with A/C on. They blame it on a failing alternator, AlternatorMan (it's their alternator, warranty expires in August) says it sounds like a bad ground. Today in a parking lot I forgot to turn off the AC before restarting the car and it wouldn't start for the first time since I got the car back. Walked over to Walmart and bought a booster and got it started.
- 2-3 of the pushrods were a couple thousandths too long, causing misfires on those cylinders so I had to order replacements and swap them in. Due to a Manton mixup, I have 2-3 non-restricted pushrods installed, I have the restricted pieces waiting to go in when I feel like it. Getting the pushrods on the Johnson lifter seat is a bit of a challenge under the hood.
- Got a lot of knock after the motor was installed. Kept adding fuel and pulling advance, then they thought it was back pressure with clogged cats based upon temp of exhaust pipe pre-post cat using their hand (yes, I later realized I should have asked them to use the infrared gun they used on the primaries to diagnose the misfires). They didn't have a back pressure tester (?) and I was livid about continual delays, so I paid them $300 to cut out the cats and replace with straight pipe. I kept the old cats, but the knock problem went away after the straight pipes were installed.
- They were leery of using the lightweight Braille battery with the larger motor, so they installed my full size ACDelco battery. Because of the angle of the radiator neck and the full size battery, the evap tube needs careful bending to allow the battery and the radiator cap to both be easily removable. I have a new evap line and I'm probably going to buy another radiator with the correct neck design to fix all of this.
- A few vacuum tube leaks that were fixed. I never realized there was a vacuum tank under the car, either it wasn't connected before or the line came off at the shop. When I tried to reconnect the existing vacuum line to the tank, it snapped off at the end of the harness and I'm still trying to figure out the proper repair.
- They cracked the intake lid neck tightening it down with a hose clamp
- A harness under the tranny tunnel eventually fell and was dragging on the pavement. The connector was beat to **** and we think it was one of the rear O2 connectors which wasn't in use. They tied it back up but I doubt they replaced the damaged connector.
- After the harness was tied back up, I regularly began popping engine sensor fuses. Not yet fixed.
- They lost the custom Braille battery mounting parts I had fabricated at another shop last year.
- They severely damaged the center console lid, seems like someone leaned too hard on it and it cracked underneath.
- One of my Firecore wires was melted, and didn't notice the damage until they were set to put them back on. Ordered a replacement set from Firecore.
- The oil dipstick is now very difficult to remove. It takes 10-20lbs of force to remove it from the tube. It was slightly worse than stock before. I bought a new tube and the same dipstick only takes 1-2lbs of force to pull out of the new tube. They must have altered the shape of the tube for some reason.
- The bundle of large harnesses next to the PCM, vacuum ports and rear of evap tube were requested to be installed like OEM, but even though they say it is it still doesn't look how I remember it being before it went to their shop. Perhaps the last person who installed the original LS3 in 2010 didn't use the OEM routing and I thought they had? I think it looks like ***.
- There is a lot of vibration in the cabin between roughly 2000RPM and 3000RPM, we think it is the minimal clearance between the ARH y-pipe and the aftermarket torque arm brace I have. The ideal solution is to raise the y-pipe instead of lowering the brace, undecided how I'm going to get that done.
- The additional exhaust vibration caused the OEM hanger next to the passenger side of the axle to fall apart. It had previously been hammered up with a impact gun to raise the exhaust years ago. I bought a used hanger from a local F-body part out shop and it's been installed for maybe all but 2 weeks since I got the car back. Today I heard some squeaking from that area of the car, it might need more TLC.
- Most of the screws holding in the lower shift boot are missing
I'm not posting a formal online review of the shop until the warranty (10K miles of 18mos, whichever comes first; the car sees about 6-7K miles per year) expires. Leery of repercussions. I'm tired of them practicing on the car, and the GM tech who was the reason I took the car there in the first place has since departed that shop. That tech took a ton of photos of the build and said he was going to give them to me, but I kind of burned my bridge with him and don't feel like asking for the photos. All that said, the bill was more than expected but less than it could have been if they had remembered to bill me for all the parts they sourced.
I've bought a few new parts to help with the above:
- FastToys 104mm lid (replaces broken 85mm)
- IntakeHoses 22L40 (replaces two separate hoses I had before)
- Could not locate my prior battery hold down for the large battery, bought another from Year One
- *****'s Auto gray console lid
Recent repairs:
- Replaced lid and coupler. TSP 100mm MAF is a little loose in the 104mm neck, FT suggest using electrical tape to make up the difference, along with gentle pressure from a hose clamp. I used a single thickness of electrical tape around the MAF housing; a few weeks after install, the MAF will not come out of the lid neck, worried about cracking neck to remove MAF. Lid is rubbing a bit on the hood, just like the prior lid. I'll try sanding down the spot on the hood to increase clearance. Coupler needed to be cut back about a 1/2" at the bottom for a nice fit.
- Replaced a previously swapped light socket in LR tail lamp. Bulb was laying loose in the housing, would not fit in the socket. Tried it in another socket and it fit just fine.
- Unrelated to overhaul... I ham fisted removing the PCV tube between the TB and the valve cover, busting the nipple off in the TB. I was able to get the plastic out of the TB by using a 1/4" plastic nipple extractor and a T40 bit. I re-ordered the nipple Nick Williams says he ships with them; it's a 90* but I re-used a straight nipple when I last converted TB's. I thought the 90* might work but it's not practical so I'm going back to straight.
To do related to engine overhaul:
- Diagnose and repair strange battery voltage gauge behavior
- Diagnose & repair reason(s) for engine fuse blowing
- Replace oil dipstick tube
- Service e-brake again
- Repair vacuum tank connection (I wonder if I can run that new vacuum line through the same engine harness again)
- Replace radiator & evap line
- Remove remaining Braille custom mounting hardware and install full size bracket
- Do something about the exhaust clearance
- R&R instrument cluster to attempt to remove finger prints and inspect that pattern above the odometer
- Check catch can to see how fast oil is accumulating to help determine if I have a crank case pressure concern
Other:
- Replace TB nipple & hose
- Replace custom cabin air filter
- Order custom panhard upper brace without bends that allows extra clearance over axle
- Driver seat has significant play in the bottom seat, yet it's firmly bolted to the floor
- Need a replacement heat shield between pedals and underbody
* I got the car back in … early May? There were/are aggravations. Off the top of my head...
- They broke one of the e-brake rings when swapping axles, I had to buy replacements and they re-installed them for free. But the e-brake still doesn't feel as good as it did previously.
- There is a little noise with the Motive Pro 3.73 gears, but I don't know if that is setup or parts. I'm giving them the benefit of the doubt that it's the parts since this brand has mixed reviews on noise.
- The mechanical oil pressure was fine but the gauge oil pressure was wacky. They blamed it on old wiring and had both kick panels off, the cluster out and the glove box off trying to diagnose the wiring between the sender and the gauge. They eventually said it was a bad ground. In the interest of time, they setup a temp ground wire from the back of the head, to a driver side valley cover bolt, to the driver side ground bolt on the wheel well next to the ABS block. That was ugly as **** but the gauge was rock solid, no flickering. I didn't like the way that wiring was improvised and later asked them for a proper fix that looked OEM quality. They did that but now the oil pressure gauge now sometimes bounces around. Instrument cluster now has finger prints inside the clear plastic and I see a pitted or cracked soil design over the odometer digits. They had to R&R the IC again to install the odometer reset button they had overlooked.
- Battery voltage seemed real good until the last cleanup visit at the shop, where the car was there for about a week. They let me drive a beater BMW in the interim. After getting the car back, the gauge voltage sometimes creeps up and down, seems to be worse with A/C on. They blame it on a failing alternator, AlternatorMan (it's their alternator, warranty expires in August) says it sounds like a bad ground. Today in a parking lot I forgot to turn off the AC before restarting the car and it wouldn't start for the first time since I got the car back. Walked over to Walmart and bought a booster and got it started.
- 2-3 of the pushrods were a couple thousandths too long, causing misfires on those cylinders so I had to order replacements and swap them in. Due to a Manton mixup, I have 2-3 non-restricted pushrods installed, I have the restricted pieces waiting to go in when I feel like it. Getting the pushrods on the Johnson lifter seat is a bit of a challenge under the hood.
- Got a lot of knock after the motor was installed. Kept adding fuel and pulling advance, then they thought it was back pressure with clogged cats based upon temp of exhaust pipe pre-post cat using their hand (yes, I later realized I should have asked them to use the infrared gun they used on the primaries to diagnose the misfires). They didn't have a back pressure tester (?) and I was livid about continual delays, so I paid them $300 to cut out the cats and replace with straight pipe. I kept the old cats, but the knock problem went away after the straight pipes were installed.
- They were leery of using the lightweight Braille battery with the larger motor, so they installed my full size ACDelco battery. Because of the angle of the radiator neck and the full size battery, the evap tube needs careful bending to allow the battery and the radiator cap to both be easily removable. I have a new evap line and I'm probably going to buy another radiator with the correct neck design to fix all of this.
- A few vacuum tube leaks that were fixed. I never realized there was a vacuum tank under the car, either it wasn't connected before or the line came off at the shop. When I tried to reconnect the existing vacuum line to the tank, it snapped off at the end of the harness and I'm still trying to figure out the proper repair.
- They cracked the intake lid neck tightening it down with a hose clamp
- A harness under the tranny tunnel eventually fell and was dragging on the pavement. The connector was beat to **** and we think it was one of the rear O2 connectors which wasn't in use. They tied it back up but I doubt they replaced the damaged connector.
- After the harness was tied back up, I regularly began popping engine sensor fuses. Not yet fixed.
- They lost the custom Braille battery mounting parts I had fabricated at another shop last year.
- They severely damaged the center console lid, seems like someone leaned too hard on it and it cracked underneath.
- One of my Firecore wires was melted, and didn't notice the damage until they were set to put them back on. Ordered a replacement set from Firecore.
- The oil dipstick is now very difficult to remove. It takes 10-20lbs of force to remove it from the tube. It was slightly worse than stock before. I bought a new tube and the same dipstick only takes 1-2lbs of force to pull out of the new tube. They must have altered the shape of the tube for some reason.
- The bundle of large harnesses next to the PCM, vacuum ports and rear of evap tube were requested to be installed like OEM, but even though they say it is it still doesn't look how I remember it being before it went to their shop. Perhaps the last person who installed the original LS3 in 2010 didn't use the OEM routing and I thought they had? I think it looks like ***.
- There is a lot of vibration in the cabin between roughly 2000RPM and 3000RPM, we think it is the minimal clearance between the ARH y-pipe and the aftermarket torque arm brace I have. The ideal solution is to raise the y-pipe instead of lowering the brace, undecided how I'm going to get that done.
- The additional exhaust vibration caused the OEM hanger next to the passenger side of the axle to fall apart. It had previously been hammered up with a impact gun to raise the exhaust years ago. I bought a used hanger from a local F-body part out shop and it's been installed for maybe all but 2 weeks since I got the car back. Today I heard some squeaking from that area of the car, it might need more TLC.
- Most of the screws holding in the lower shift boot are missing
I'm not posting a formal online review of the shop until the warranty (10K miles of 18mos, whichever comes first; the car sees about 6-7K miles per year) expires. Leery of repercussions. I'm tired of them practicing on the car, and the GM tech who was the reason I took the car there in the first place has since departed that shop. That tech took a ton of photos of the build and said he was going to give them to me, but I kind of burned my bridge with him and don't feel like asking for the photos. All that said, the bill was more than expected but less than it could have been if they had remembered to bill me for all the parts they sourced.
I've bought a few new parts to help with the above:
- FastToys 104mm lid (replaces broken 85mm)
- IntakeHoses 22L40 (replaces two separate hoses I had before)
- Could not locate my prior battery hold down for the large battery, bought another from Year One
- *****'s Auto gray console lid
Recent repairs:
- Replaced lid and coupler. TSP 100mm MAF is a little loose in the 104mm neck, FT suggest using electrical tape to make up the difference, along with gentle pressure from a hose clamp. I used a single thickness of electrical tape around the MAF housing; a few weeks after install, the MAF will not come out of the lid neck, worried about cracking neck to remove MAF. Lid is rubbing a bit on the hood, just like the prior lid. I'll try sanding down the spot on the hood to increase clearance. Coupler needed to be cut back about a 1/2" at the bottom for a nice fit.
- Replaced a previously swapped light socket in LR tail lamp. Bulb was laying loose in the housing, would not fit in the socket. Tried it in another socket and it fit just fine.
- Unrelated to overhaul... I ham fisted removing the PCV tube between the TB and the valve cover, busting the nipple off in the TB. I was able to get the plastic out of the TB by using a 1/4" plastic nipple extractor and a T40 bit. I re-ordered the nipple Nick Williams says he ships with them; it's a 90* but I re-used a straight nipple when I last converted TB's. I thought the 90* might work but it's not practical so I'm going back to straight.
To do related to engine overhaul:
- Diagnose and repair strange battery voltage gauge behavior
- Diagnose & repair reason(s) for engine fuse blowing
- Replace oil dipstick tube
- Service e-brake again
- Repair vacuum tank connection (I wonder if I can run that new vacuum line through the same engine harness again)
- Replace radiator & evap line
- Remove remaining Braille custom mounting hardware and install full size bracket
- Do something about the exhaust clearance
- R&R instrument cluster to attempt to remove finger prints and inspect that pattern above the odometer
- Check catch can to see how fast oil is accumulating to help determine if I have a crank case pressure concern
Other:
- Replace TB nipple & hose
- Replace custom cabin air filter
- Order custom panhard upper brace without bends that allows extra clearance over axle
- Driver seat has significant play in the bottom seat, yet it's firmly bolted to the floor
- Need a replacement heat shield between pedals and underbody
07-27-2019, 01:48 PM
#42
My suspension shop (where my GM tech worked 2 shops ago) said:
* The existing dipstick tube is oriented that way due to the headers and there wasn't any way to make improvements. However, the dipstick certainly did not require 5-10x the force prior the motor overhaul, so the other shop must have done something with the tube to cause this. Is there an aftermarket dipstick solution that is friendlier to LS1 headers?
* They tied the clutch line away from the header but they recommend a new line. It's a custom order item from Tick due to the Tilton, my notes say it is Tick PN TPCL-01 @ $140.
* They blame the fuse popping on the voltage getting low, and said my 1 year old ACDelco battery was bad, but I'm going to get a second opinion on the battery. We installed a new Optima Red top and the condition didn't change. When the AC turns on, the voltage at the battery drops to 10-11V. They'd like me to raise the idle RPM high enough (it's at 915 hot idle, AC on or off, which worked fine for years with the prior motor) to get it to be in the 13V range.
* I had the driver window down at the shop, and when driving home it wouldn't go back up. All other controls work on that door. took the door apart, the plastic switch isn't cracked. The door already had open heart surgery to reinforce the fiber glass with sheet metal for the regulator and motor. I have no idea how to troubleshoot it now that it looks like this. My prior GM tech did this and now he lives in NH.
Door interior:
* The existing dipstick tube is oriented that way due to the headers and there wasn't any way to make improvements. However, the dipstick certainly did not require 5-10x the force prior the motor overhaul, so the other shop must have done something with the tube to cause this. Is there an aftermarket dipstick solution that is friendlier to LS1 headers?
* They tied the clutch line away from the header but they recommend a new line. It's a custom order item from Tick due to the Tilton, my notes say it is Tick PN TPCL-01 @ $140.
* They blame the fuse popping on the voltage getting low, and said my 1 year old ACDelco battery was bad, but I'm going to get a second opinion on the battery. We installed a new Optima Red top and the condition didn't change. When the AC turns on, the voltage at the battery drops to 10-11V. They'd like me to raise the idle RPM high enough (it's at 915 hot idle, AC on or off, which worked fine for years with the prior motor) to get it to be in the 13V range.
* I had the driver window down at the shop, and when driving home it wouldn't go back up. All other controls work on that door. took the door apart, the plastic switch isn't cracked. The door already had open heart surgery to reinforce the fiber glass with sheet metal for the regulator and motor. I have no idea how to troubleshoot it now that it looks like this. My prior GM tech did this and now he lives in NH.
Door interior:
08-18-2019, 07:11 PM
#44
I didn't make much progress with this oppressive heat 
- Replace custom cabin air filter: Done, although I gotta get back in there as it's making a fluttering noise.
- Diagnose and repair strange battery voltage gauge behavior: Installed known good alternator (bench tested 150A, 14.7'ish V), found damaged harness wiring going to PCM. Repaired harness and the voltage now seems stable. Problem seems resolved at this time.
- Remove remaining Braille custom mounting hardware and install full size bracket: Done
- Replace TB nipple & hose: Done
- Replace driver side window motor: Done
- Received a new lower door seal, but I'm holding off on replacing it because I had such a difficult time getting the old adhesive off the door near the hinge last time. The last replacement came loose there and it sticks out like a dogs tongue if you close the door without paying attention to it.
- Serpentine belt had cracks and dead spots in it, replaced it and the A/C belt
To do related to engine overhaul:
- Diagnose & repair reason(s) for engine fuse blowing
- Leakdown and/or compression tests
- Implement the correct PCV solution
- Might have a leak from the rear main seal
- Replace oil dipstick tube
- Service e-brake again
- Repair vacuum tank connection (I wonder if I can run that new vacuum line through the same engine harness again)
- Replace radiator & evap line. DeWitts said they can make the radiator corrections for free if I send them the current radiator.
- Do something about the exhaust clearance
- R&R instrument cluster to attempt to remove finger prints and inspect that pattern above the odometer
- Check catch can again to see how fast oil is accumulating to help determine if I have a crank case pressure concern
- Oil level sensor harness damaged, causing false positives, need to replace at next oil change
Other repairs off the top of my head:
- Order custom panhard upper brace without bends that allows extra clearance over axle (pending more measurements)
- Driver seat has significant play in the bottom seat, yet it's firmly bolted to the floor
- Need a replacement heat shield between pedals and underbody. Carpet is worn through to bare metal under mats and the mats eventually wear through also. The heat transfers into the heel of multiple sets of shoes. Need a long term overall solution.
- Bench test the alternator I removed
- Find a replacement gray inner door handle trim, I either cracked it replacing the window motor recently or it was previously cracked and I didn't realize it.
- Forgestar F14 45mm offset wheels are slightly rubbing the Strrano 35mm hollow bar, Sam suggested 42mm but I wanted the ability to space them out as needed. So I need to find 3mm hub centric spacers, not having much luck so far
- Fuel gauge is inaccurate, full tank is about 3/4 full on the gauge, Empty on the gauge has about 3 gallons left in the tank
- Found a rip in the t-top door seal at the bottom of the door, having problems finding a replacement
Parts on hand but installation not anywhere in the near future:
UMI 2335 front coilover upper A-arm mounting bracket
UMI 2310CM Adj Upper A-arm
UMI 2060 Bumpsteer kit
UMI 2045 rear coilover upper mounting bracket
Detroit Speed Fender Brace
McMaster-Carr rear sway bar locks
I found another small shop that claims they have been working on LSx vehicles for well over a decade including many F-bodies, and they have a couple of recommendations from local Facebook groups. I'm planning to stop over there next week to talk to the owner about leakdown & compression tests.
- Replace custom cabin air filter: Done, although I gotta get back in there as it's making a fluttering noise.
- Diagnose and repair strange battery voltage gauge behavior: Installed known good alternator (bench tested 150A, 14.7'ish V), found damaged harness wiring going to PCM. Repaired harness and the voltage now seems stable. Problem seems resolved at this time.
- Remove remaining Braille custom mounting hardware and install full size bracket: Done
- Replace TB nipple & hose: Done
- Replace driver side window motor: Done
- Received a new lower door seal, but I'm holding off on replacing it because I had such a difficult time getting the old adhesive off the door near the hinge last time. The last replacement came loose there and it sticks out like a dogs tongue if you close the door without paying attention to it.
- Serpentine belt had cracks and dead spots in it, replaced it and the A/C belt
To do related to engine overhaul:
- Diagnose & repair reason(s) for engine fuse blowing
- Leakdown and/or compression tests
- Implement the correct PCV solution
- Might have a leak from the rear main seal
- Replace oil dipstick tube
- Service e-brake again
- Repair vacuum tank connection (I wonder if I can run that new vacuum line through the same engine harness again)
- Replace radiator & evap line. DeWitts said they can make the radiator corrections for free if I send them the current radiator.
- Do something about the exhaust clearance
- R&R instrument cluster to attempt to remove finger prints and inspect that pattern above the odometer
- Check catch can again to see how fast oil is accumulating to help determine if I have a crank case pressure concern
- Oil level sensor harness damaged, causing false positives, need to replace at next oil change
Other repairs off the top of my head:
- Order custom panhard upper brace without bends that allows extra clearance over axle (pending more measurements)
- Driver seat has significant play in the bottom seat, yet it's firmly bolted to the floor
- Need a replacement heat shield between pedals and underbody. Carpet is worn through to bare metal under mats and the mats eventually wear through also. The heat transfers into the heel of multiple sets of shoes. Need a long term overall solution.
- Bench test the alternator I removed
- Find a replacement gray inner door handle trim, I either cracked it replacing the window motor recently or it was previously cracked and I didn't realize it.
- Forgestar F14 45mm offset wheels are slightly rubbing the Strrano 35mm hollow bar, Sam suggested 42mm but I wanted the ability to space them out as needed. So I need to find 3mm hub centric spacers, not having much luck so far
- Fuel gauge is inaccurate, full tank is about 3/4 full on the gauge, Empty on the gauge has about 3 gallons left in the tank
- Found a rip in the t-top door seal at the bottom of the door, having problems finding a replacement
Parts on hand but installation not anywhere in the near future:
UMI 2335 front coilover upper A-arm mounting bracket
UMI 2310CM Adj Upper A-arm
UMI 2060 Bumpsteer kit
UMI 2045 rear coilover upper mounting bracket
Detroit Speed Fender Brace
McMaster-Carr rear sway bar locks
I found another small shop that claims they have been working on LSx vehicles for well over a decade including many F-bodies, and they have a couple of recommendations from local Facebook groups. I'm planning to stop over there next week to talk to the owner about leakdown & compression tests.
09-07-2019, 01:11 PM
#45
I ran out of Photobucket space, deleted and reorganized photos, breaking old links, oh well. The GM tech that moved out of state sent me the ~70 photos he took while in the shop.
- Custom cabin air filter: I'm leaving it out for now, and the outdoor odors are obvious again. The last time I attempted to re-mount the blower motor I found one of the three threaded nuts in the that housing to be broken, and the other two slightly cracked. The two bolts still appear to hold up the motor enough for it to seal. Even if I can find a replacement housing, not clear on the difficulty to R&R it.
- Diagnose and repair strange battery voltage gauge behavior: Still stable, I'm calling it resolved.
- Engine sensor fuse: Took it to a dealer, they claimed that the brake light switch under the kick panel was bad, tech drove it, fuse didn't blow. Paid and returned the car to me, drove just 1-2 miles down the road and fuse blew again. Dealer then found an exposed wire in a harness near the block, repaired, repeated, blew fuse again. Waiting to schedule a followup appointment.
- Leakdown & compression test: Received a $500 quote for these tests from that small local shop. Not sure if this is a good value.
- Asked the same dealer to look at the e-brake, and they preferred to not mess with it... they were worried that they'd get it apart and then find parts were no longer available due to the age of the car.
- Bench test the removed CS130D alternator: Tests the same, ~150A, 14.7V.
- Bench tested the spare DR44G truck alternator: bad voltage regulator. The repair shop said that they called their supplier and he was told the regulator in this model was incompatible with my PCM, so I merely took it home instead of having it repaired.
- Custom completely straight upper panhard brace: Received, weighs 6.5lbs, no idea what the stock stamped piece weighs at this time. Because I use the lower panhard bar design, the passenger brace mount now mounts in the OEM bar location, adding additional exhaust clearance. According to an old road racer in California that raced on the LT1-based F-bodies, the brace needs to be straight to react to cornering loads on the frame end of the panhard. If that frame tower is allowed to flex it will eventually crack off.
- Custom cabin air filter: I'm leaving it out for now, and the outdoor odors are obvious again. The last time I attempted to re-mount the blower motor I found one of the three threaded nuts in the that housing to be broken, and the other two slightly cracked. The two bolts still appear to hold up the motor enough for it to seal. Even if I can find a replacement housing, not clear on the difficulty to R&R it.
- Diagnose and repair strange battery voltage gauge behavior: Still stable, I'm calling it resolved.
- Engine sensor fuse: Took it to a dealer, they claimed that the brake light switch under the kick panel was bad, tech drove it, fuse didn't blow. Paid and returned the car to me, drove just 1-2 miles down the road and fuse blew again. Dealer then found an exposed wire in a harness near the block, repaired, repeated, blew fuse again. Waiting to schedule a followup appointment.
- Leakdown & compression test: Received a $500 quote for these tests from that small local shop. Not sure if this is a good value.
- Asked the same dealer to look at the e-brake, and they preferred to not mess with it... they were worried that they'd get it apart and then find parts were no longer available due to the age of the car.
- Bench test the removed CS130D alternator: Tests the same, ~150A, 14.7V.
- Bench tested the spare DR44G truck alternator: bad voltage regulator. The repair shop said that they called their supplier and he was told the regulator in this model was incompatible with my PCM, so I merely took it home instead of having it repaired.
- Custom completely straight upper panhard brace: Received, weighs 6.5lbs, no idea what the stock stamped piece weighs at this time. Because I use the lower panhard bar design, the passenger brace mount now mounts in the OEM bar location, adding additional exhaust clearance. According to an old road racer in California that raced on the LT1-based F-bodies, the brace needs to be straight to react to cornering loads on the frame end of the panhard. If that frame tower is allowed to flex it will eventually crack off.
09-08-2019, 03:19 PM
#48
- I replaced both glove box bumpers
Took off the center console today to look into unusual heat emanating from that area. I found that the lower shift boot had a larger shifter shaft hole than I remember. I'll see if I can pickup a used one locally before looking elsewhere. Also found that the sheet metal cracks in that area were not repaired as the prior shop to drop the tranny had said they could do.
Took off the center console today to look into unusual heat emanating from that area. I found that the lower shift boot had a larger shifter shaft hole than I remember. I'll see if I can pickup a used one locally before looking elsewhere. Also found that the sheet metal cracks in that area were not repaired as the prior shop to drop the tranny had said they could do.
09-08-2019, 07:10 PM
#49
TECH Resident
Performance Auto there in Jupiter is a first class bunch, when I was working down there they installed the Supecharger on my 2011 Camaro 2 SS great job and reasonable, look on their web page Wayne is a really good person. They build some beautiful cars and are a allaround shop. Might be worth a trip up there to talk to them about your issues and see what they say...
10-05-2019, 07:32 PM
#50
I had two 11yr old dogs. One had to be put down in early July due to a large cyst in his prostrate, and the other was put down last Saturday due to bone cancer. No more dogs for awhile, working on the bucket list which starts with the remaining car items. So, for better or worse, I'm keeping busy tinkering on the car.
* Replaced incandescent bulbs with LEDs in cluster, HVAC, rear view mirror, doors, glove box and ashtray. Already had a LED festoon in the hatch. Tried to swap headlight switch bulb for LED, but blew the IP Dimmer 5A fuse and then read that the incandescent works better in this location. Replaced fuse and re-used original working headlight switch bulb. Still getting used to the cluster LEDs, a little brighter than I had anticipated.
* I found a 200MPH cluster template, but I could not locate anyone who still re-calibrates the cluster drivers, should've done that years ago.
* While I was in there I cleaned off the fingerprints and set the ECT gauge to be 235 when the scanner reads 235, also reads within a few degrees of scanner at 210.
* The odometer pattern seems to be a result of heat or perhaps a cleaner used by someone else who was in there. It's not as apparent with the LEDs, might still pickup some film and try to make it look nicer.
* Replaced the stripped screw that holds the driver door trim bezel to the fiberglass inside the door with a slightly large screw.
* Replaced the ignition coil harnesses
* Installed an additional plastic bracket on the PS side of the intake manifold to further secure an extension harness.
* Replaced cracked coolant reservoir tank.
* Replaced TB bracket with a version that allows me to use a straight TB PCV nipple. It doesn't allow me to easily remove the LS3 MAP sensor now, though. Installed new button head bolts and a shorter bolt for the bracket.
* Custom cabin air filter is still out, outdoor odors more noticeable but the AC blows better. Wish there was a happy medium. Still looking for ideas on how to repair stripped screw mounts.
* Battery voltage has been stable since replacing battery and repairing alternator harness wiring.
* I'm getting a squealing noise upon engine startup, seems to go away when warm. Replaced the relatively new generic serpentine belt with a Continental to see if it helps.
* The upper radiator hose was a bit too close to the water pump pulley because the hose was pushed on a bit too far. Adjusted for clearance.
* Installed a Wix 24801 in the lid and moved the IAT to the MAF connector.
Received this forum warning, I'll have to split up this post:
The text that you have entered is too long (10911 characters). Please shorten it to 10000 characters long.
* Replaced incandescent bulbs with LEDs in cluster, HVAC, rear view mirror, doors, glove box and ashtray. Already had a LED festoon in the hatch. Tried to swap headlight switch bulb for LED, but blew the IP Dimmer 5A fuse and then read that the incandescent works better in this location. Replaced fuse and re-used original working headlight switch bulb. Still getting used to the cluster LEDs, a little brighter than I had anticipated.
* I found a 200MPH cluster template, but I could not locate anyone who still re-calibrates the cluster drivers, should've done that years ago.
* While I was in there I cleaned off the fingerprints and set the ECT gauge to be 235 when the scanner reads 235, also reads within a few degrees of scanner at 210.
* The odometer pattern seems to be a result of heat or perhaps a cleaner used by someone else who was in there. It's not as apparent with the LEDs, might still pickup some film and try to make it look nicer.
* Replaced the stripped screw that holds the driver door trim bezel to the fiberglass inside the door with a slightly large screw.
* Replaced the ignition coil harnesses
* Installed an additional plastic bracket on the PS side of the intake manifold to further secure an extension harness.
* Replaced cracked coolant reservoir tank.
* Replaced TB bracket with a version that allows me to use a straight TB PCV nipple. It doesn't allow me to easily remove the LS3 MAP sensor now, though. Installed new button head bolts and a shorter bolt for the bracket.
* Custom cabin air filter is still out, outdoor odors more noticeable but the AC blows better. Wish there was a happy medium. Still looking for ideas on how to repair stripped screw mounts.
* Battery voltage has been stable since replacing battery and repairing alternator harness wiring.
* I'm getting a squealing noise upon engine startup, seems to go away when warm. Replaced the relatively new generic serpentine belt with a Continental to see if it helps.
* The upper radiator hose was a bit too close to the water pump pulley because the hose was pushed on a bit too far. Adjusted for clearance.
* Installed a Wix 24801 in the lid and moved the IAT to the MAF connector.
Received this forum warning, I'll have to split up this post:
The text that you have entered is too long (10911 characters). Please shorten it to 10000 characters long.
Last edited by JimMueller; 10-08-2019 at 08:38 AM.
10-08-2019, 08:38 AM
#51
To do related to engine overhaul:
- Diagnose & repair reason(s) for engine fuse blowing
- Leakdown and/or compression tests
- Implement the correct PCV solution
- Might have a leak from the rear main seal
- Replace oil dipstick tube
- Service e-brake again
- Repair vacuum tank connection (I wonder if I can run that new vacuum line through the same engine harness again)
- Replace radiator & evap line. DeWitts said they can make the radiator corrections for free if I send them the current radiator.
- Do something about the exhaust clearance
- I noticed the catch can was full of oil again at about 201850 miles. This is the second time it's been full since the engine was re-installed at about 199000 miles.
- Oil level sensor harness damaged, causing false positives, need to replace at next oil change
- Swap in remaining restricted pushrods on PS. PITA to get them seated on the Johnson lifters when it was on a stand, much less in the engine bay.
- Driver side injector harness is a routed above the fuel line. Need to re-arrange that.
- Passenger side harnesses near PCM and hood strut need to be returned to OEM routing. I feel it looks like *** right now.
Other repairs off the top of my head:
* When I turn off the engine and leave the car, when I walk past the fuel door I smell fuel. Other times when I walk past it the odor is not there.
* Cruise control plastic clip that connects to TB cracked, looking for a better solution than a zip tie.
* The new inside rear view mirror driver side lens won't stay in when attempting to re-install it
* Do something about the driver outside rearview mirror shaking like a grand mal seizure.
* Driver door sags a bit due to worn hinges. I have replacement hinges and a hinge repair kit. Not sure which is better.
* R&R steering column to fix tilt play. Already replaced tilt pins with oversized and it was an inadequate repair.
* Need to repair or replace cracked driver side door trim bezel to help the power controls stay in place.
* Need an HVAC **** that has the transparent white line
* HVAC ***** seem to be cracking more often, I'm wondering if it's related to the vacuum tank not being connected
* Received a new lower door seal, but I'm holding off on replacing it because I had such a difficult time getting the old adhesive off the door near the hinge last time. The last replacement came loose there and it sticks out like a dogs tongue if you close the door without paying attention to it.
* Locate some ~3mm hubcentric wheel spacers
* Driver seat has significant play in the bottom seat, yet it's firmly bolted to the floor
* Need a replacement heat shield between pedals and underbody. Carpet is worn through to bare metal under mats and the mats eventually wear through also. The heat transfers into the heel of multiple sets of shoes. Need a long term overall solution.
* Find a replacement gray inner door handle trim, I either cracked it replacing the window motor recently or it was previously cracked and I didn't realize it.
* Fuel gauge is inaccurate, full tank is about 3/4 full on the gauge, Empty on the gauge has about 3 gallons left in the tank
* Found a rip in the t-top door seal at the bottom of the door, having problems finding a replacement
* Consider replacing the Tick clutch hydraulic line (or wait for new clutch solution). It wasn't adequately secured when the car went back together last time and it has a bit of a nick on it from resting against the header tube.
* It'd be nice to have better looking seatbelt harness latches. The plastic parts on the belt have all cracked off, even on replacement belts.
* Replace carpet
* Replace the OEM radio again, lights all burned out and the CD Player crapped out again. Maybe find one that already has the Aux port installed.
- Diagnose & repair reason(s) for engine fuse blowing
- Leakdown and/or compression tests
- Implement the correct PCV solution
- Might have a leak from the rear main seal
- Replace oil dipstick tube
- Service e-brake again
- Repair vacuum tank connection (I wonder if I can run that new vacuum line through the same engine harness again)
- Replace radiator & evap line. DeWitts said they can make the radiator corrections for free if I send them the current radiator.
- Do something about the exhaust clearance
- I noticed the catch can was full of oil again at about 201850 miles. This is the second time it's been full since the engine was re-installed at about 199000 miles.
- Oil level sensor harness damaged, causing false positives, need to replace at next oil change
- Swap in remaining restricted pushrods on PS. PITA to get them seated on the Johnson lifters when it was on a stand, much less in the engine bay.
- Driver side injector harness is a routed above the fuel line. Need to re-arrange that.
- Passenger side harnesses near PCM and hood strut need to be returned to OEM routing. I feel it looks like *** right now.
Other repairs off the top of my head:
* When I turn off the engine and leave the car, when I walk past the fuel door I smell fuel. Other times when I walk past it the odor is not there.
* Cruise control plastic clip that connects to TB cracked, looking for a better solution than a zip tie.
* The new inside rear view mirror driver side lens won't stay in when attempting to re-install it
* Do something about the driver outside rearview mirror shaking like a grand mal seizure.
* Driver door sags a bit due to worn hinges. I have replacement hinges and a hinge repair kit. Not sure which is better.
* R&R steering column to fix tilt play. Already replaced tilt pins with oversized and it was an inadequate repair.
* Need to repair or replace cracked driver side door trim bezel to help the power controls stay in place.
* Need an HVAC **** that has the transparent white line
* HVAC ***** seem to be cracking more often, I'm wondering if it's related to the vacuum tank not being connected
* Received a new lower door seal, but I'm holding off on replacing it because I had such a difficult time getting the old adhesive off the door near the hinge last time. The last replacement came loose there and it sticks out like a dogs tongue if you close the door without paying attention to it.
* Locate some ~3mm hubcentric wheel spacers
* Driver seat has significant play in the bottom seat, yet it's firmly bolted to the floor
* Need a replacement heat shield between pedals and underbody. Carpet is worn through to bare metal under mats and the mats eventually wear through also. The heat transfers into the heel of multiple sets of shoes. Need a long term overall solution.
* Find a replacement gray inner door handle trim, I either cracked it replacing the window motor recently or it was previously cracked and I didn't realize it.
* Fuel gauge is inaccurate, full tank is about 3/4 full on the gauge, Empty on the gauge has about 3 gallons left in the tank
* Found a rip in the t-top door seal at the bottom of the door, having problems finding a replacement
* Consider replacing the Tick clutch hydraulic line (or wait for new clutch solution). It wasn't adequately secured when the car went back together last time and it has a bit of a nick on it from resting against the header tube.
* It'd be nice to have better looking seatbelt harness latches. The plastic parts on the belt have all cracked off, even on replacement belts.
* Replace carpet
* Replace the OEM radio again, lights all burned out and the CD Player crapped out again. Maybe find one that already has the Aux port installed.
08-08-2020, 11:45 PM
#52
Some of what was done since the last update. Removed what was completed from the prior post.
* Installed a NOS replacement OEM CD/radio
* Installed LS9 valve covers
* Swapped in LS9 coils & harnesses
* Upgraded from LS3 injectors to FIC 50lb/hr@4BAR injectors and new fuel rail. Replaced TB & intake gaskets.
* Swapped from Pro 5.0 shifter to MGW
* New Rival S tires
* New front street pads & front high carbon C5 directional rotors
* Replaced steering rack & 4-wheel alignment
* Replaced A/C compressor, dryer, etc due to leak.
* Corrected leaking rear end (engine build shop used a gasket)
* Corrected leaking rear main seal (engine build shop did not seal it per GM specs)
* Replaced LS7/Fidanza clutch with Mantic 9000+ Twin Ceremetallic
* Installed all new everything related to the clutch except kept the Tick 7/8" bore master. Added a heat shield on the hydraulic line.
* Fixed loose exterior driver side mirror
* Replaced cracked driver door switch panel & felt window guides
* Removed the clutch return spring (It wasn't removed when the Tick master was originally installed about 15 years ago)
* Replaced cruise control lever
* Replaced my dash sun screen
What remains related to engine overhaul:
- PCV: For now I've added stainless steel pot scrubbers to the bottom of the can and added an inline sintered brass filter between the can outlet and the intake inlet. Looking at the MM PCV + fitting top conversion. Trying to locate a second can for the clean side that I can mount in the F-body engine bay with all factory accessories, assuming the MM can will mount on the right head.Right now I'm considering -10 hoses off the valve covers, going to a T, then to the 2nd can. The Saikou Michi design would be the easy button, but I don't think their design is as robust as MM for the dirty side.
- Replace oil dipstick tube
- Service e-brake again
- Repair vacuum tank connection. I have improvised a hose but I can't figure out how to get it back into the original wiring loom.
- Replace radiator & evap line. DeWitts said they can make the radiator corrections for free if I send them the current radiator.
- Do something about the exhaust clearance. I doubt this will happen until I upgrade the primaries.
- Passenger side harnesses near PCM and hood strut need to be returned to OEM routing. I feel it looks like *** right now.
Other repairs off the top of my head:
* When I turn off the engine and leave the car, when I walk past the fuel door I smell fuel. Other times when I walk past it the odor is not there. Perhaps it's related to no longer having cats.
* The steam hose that connects below the radiator cap has some white corrosion at the size adapter. Parts waiting for install.
* Shop that installed my clutch cracked the plastic that the top shifter boot snaps into. Now looking for a nice graphite replacement.
* The driver lower plastic kick panel (with the foam) has a piece busted off where it snaps into the firewall. Looking for an unmolested replacement.
* Want to raise throttle pedal height for easier heel/toe shifting
* The new inside rear view mirror driver side lens won't stay in when attempting to re-install it
* Driver door sags a bit due to worn hinges. I have replacement hinges and a hinge repair kit. Not sure which is better.
* R&R steering column to fix tilt play. Already replaced tilt pins with oversized and it was an inadequate repair.
* HVAC ***** seem to be cracking more often, I'm wondering if it's related to the vacuum tank not being connected is making the ***** harder to turn and thus more prone to cracking inside.
* HVAC blower motor housing is rattling. Need to find a solution for the compressed/stripped female threads in the evaporator case behind the glove box. I've seen used take outs, but I have no idea what is involved in swapping it out.
* Received a new lower door seal, but I'm holding off on replacing it because I had such a difficult time getting the old adhesive off the door near the hinge last time. The last replacement came loose there and it sticks out like a dogs tongue if you close the door without paying attention to it.
* Locate some ~3mm hubcentric wheel spacers
* Driver seat has significant play in the bottom seat, yet it's firmly bolted to the floor
* Need a replacement heat shield between pedals and underbody. Carpet is worn through to bare metal under mats and the mats eventually wear through also. The heat transfers into the heel of multiple sets of shoes. Need a long term overall solution.
* Fuel gauge is inaccurate, full tank is about 3/4 full on the gauge, Empty on the gauge has about 3 gallons left in the tank. I want the new WS6Store complete drop in kit to hopefully fix it all.
* Found a rip in the t-top door seal at the bottom of the door, having problems finding a replacement
* It'd be nice to have better looking seatbelt harness latches. The plastic parts on the belt have all cracked off, even on replacement belts.
* Replace carpet
* Replace C6 caliper seals as one is ripped open.
* The Motive Pro gears installed summer 2019 have gotten noisy. Plan to go back to OEM gears with a competition pattern on the drive side.
* Installed a NOS replacement OEM CD/radio
* Installed LS9 valve covers
* Swapped in LS9 coils & harnesses
* Upgraded from LS3 injectors to FIC 50lb/hr@4BAR injectors and new fuel rail. Replaced TB & intake gaskets.
* Swapped from Pro 5.0 shifter to MGW
* New Rival S tires
* New front street pads & front high carbon C5 directional rotors
* Replaced steering rack & 4-wheel alignment
* Replaced A/C compressor, dryer, etc due to leak.
* Corrected leaking rear end (engine build shop used a gasket)
* Corrected leaking rear main seal (engine build shop did not seal it per GM specs)
* Replaced LS7/Fidanza clutch with Mantic 9000+ Twin Ceremetallic
* Installed all new everything related to the clutch except kept the Tick 7/8" bore master. Added a heat shield on the hydraulic line.
* Fixed loose exterior driver side mirror
* Replaced cracked driver door switch panel & felt window guides
* Removed the clutch return spring (It wasn't removed when the Tick master was originally installed about 15 years ago)
* Replaced cruise control lever
* Replaced my dash sun screen
What remains related to engine overhaul:
- PCV: For now I've added stainless steel pot scrubbers to the bottom of the can and added an inline sintered brass filter between the can outlet and the intake inlet. Looking at the MM PCV + fitting top conversion. Trying to locate a second can for the clean side that I can mount in the F-body engine bay with all factory accessories, assuming the MM can will mount on the right head.Right now I'm considering -10 hoses off the valve covers, going to a T, then to the 2nd can. The Saikou Michi design would be the easy button, but I don't think their design is as robust as MM for the dirty side.
- Replace oil dipstick tube
- Service e-brake again
- Repair vacuum tank connection. I have improvised a hose but I can't figure out how to get it back into the original wiring loom.
- Replace radiator & evap line. DeWitts said they can make the radiator corrections for free if I send them the current radiator.
- Do something about the exhaust clearance. I doubt this will happen until I upgrade the primaries.
- Passenger side harnesses near PCM and hood strut need to be returned to OEM routing. I feel it looks like *** right now.
Other repairs off the top of my head:
* When I turn off the engine and leave the car, when I walk past the fuel door I smell fuel. Other times when I walk past it the odor is not there. Perhaps it's related to no longer having cats.
* The steam hose that connects below the radiator cap has some white corrosion at the size adapter. Parts waiting for install.
* Shop that installed my clutch cracked the plastic that the top shifter boot snaps into. Now looking for a nice graphite replacement.
* The driver lower plastic kick panel (with the foam) has a piece busted off where it snaps into the firewall. Looking for an unmolested replacement.
* Want to raise throttle pedal height for easier heel/toe shifting
* The new inside rear view mirror driver side lens won't stay in when attempting to re-install it
* Driver door sags a bit due to worn hinges. I have replacement hinges and a hinge repair kit. Not sure which is better.
* R&R steering column to fix tilt play. Already replaced tilt pins with oversized and it was an inadequate repair.
* HVAC ***** seem to be cracking more often, I'm wondering if it's related to the vacuum tank not being connected is making the ***** harder to turn and thus more prone to cracking inside.
* HVAC blower motor housing is rattling. Need to find a solution for the compressed/stripped female threads in the evaporator case behind the glove box. I've seen used take outs, but I have no idea what is involved in swapping it out.
* Received a new lower door seal, but I'm holding off on replacing it because I had such a difficult time getting the old adhesive off the door near the hinge last time. The last replacement came loose there and it sticks out like a dogs tongue if you close the door without paying attention to it.
* Locate some ~3mm hubcentric wheel spacers
* Driver seat has significant play in the bottom seat, yet it's firmly bolted to the floor
* Need a replacement heat shield between pedals and underbody. Carpet is worn through to bare metal under mats and the mats eventually wear through also. The heat transfers into the heel of multiple sets of shoes. Need a long term overall solution.
* Fuel gauge is inaccurate, full tank is about 3/4 full on the gauge, Empty on the gauge has about 3 gallons left in the tank. I want the new WS6Store complete drop in kit to hopefully fix it all.
* Found a rip in the t-top door seal at the bottom of the door, having problems finding a replacement
* It'd be nice to have better looking seatbelt harness latches. The plastic parts on the belt have all cracked off, even on replacement belts.
* Replace carpet
* Replace C6 caliper seals as one is ripped open.
* The Motive Pro gears installed summer 2019 have gotten noisy. Plan to go back to OEM gears with a competition pattern on the drive side.
10-10-2020, 05:48 PM
#53
Changes:
- PCV: Installed MightyMouse C5 Mild catch can with drain hose & fitting top conversion. Although I am less than impressed with the engineering, it appears to provide the desired function.
- Had a shop adjust the e-brake, it's better but not great. I bought the actual tool and we'll try again.
* Rebuilt steam hose that goes under the radiator cap
* R&R'ed HVAC blower motor housing that was rattling. Evap case threads not as bad as I remembered. Cleaned out a shitload of leaves that were to the side of the blower, couldn't get all of them out though. Rattling now gone..
* Removed driver seat to find source of play, couldn't locate a method to remove the play.
* Replaced my single NGK AFX wideband with a pair of AFR500v2's
* Corner weighted (not balanced) the car
What remains related to engine overhaul:
- Replace oil dipstick tube
- Repair vacuum tank connection. I have improvised a hose but I can't figure out how to get it back into the original wiring loom.
- Replace radiator & evap line. It's functional but not pretty. DeWitts said they can make the radiator corrections for free if I send them the current radiator.
- Do something about the exhaust clearance. I doubt this will happen until I upgrade the primaries.
- Passenger side harnesses near PCM and hood strut need to be returned to OEM routing. I feel it looks like *** right now.
Other repairs off the top of my head:
* When I turn off the engine and leave the car, when I walk past the fuel door I smell fuel. Other times when I walk past it the odor is not there. Perhaps it's related to no longer having cats.
* Shop that installed my clutch cracked the plastic that the top shifter boot snaps into. Now looking for a nice graphite replacement.
* The driver lower plastic kick panel (with the foam) has a piece busted off where it snaps into the firewall. Looking for an unmolested replacement.
* Want to raise throttle pedal height for easier heel/toe shifting. Have parts for a friend and I to do it on both of our cars some weekend.
* The new inside rear view mirror driver side lens won't stay in when attempting to re-install it
* Driver door sags a bit due to worn hinges. I have replacement hinges and a hinge repair kit. Not sure which is better.
* R&R steering column to fix tilt play. Already replaced tilt pins with oversized and it was an inadequate repair.
* HVAC ***** seem to be cracking more often, I'm wondering if it's related to the vacuum tank not being connected is making the ***** harder to turn and thus more prone to cracking inside.
* Received a new lower door seal, but I'm holding off on replacing it because I had such a difficult time getting the old adhesive off the door near the hinge last time. The last replacement came loose there and it sticks out like a dogs tongue if you close the door without paying attention to it.
* Locate some ~3mm 6061-T6 hub centric 5x120 wheel spacers
* Driver seat has significant play in the bottom seat, yet it's firmly bolted to the floor.
* Need a replacement heat shield between pedals and underbody. Carpet is worn through to bare metal under mats and the mats eventually wear through also. The heat transfers into the heel of multiple sets of shoes. Need a long term overall solution.
* Fuel gauge is inaccurate, full tank is about 3/4 full on the gauge, Empty on the gauge has about 3 gallons left in the tank. Ordered the WS6Store complete drop in kit to hopefully fix it all.
* Found a rip in the t-top door seal at the bottom of the door, having problems finding a replacement
* It'd be nice to have better looking seatbelt harness latches. The plastic parts on the belt have all cracked off, even on replacement belts.
* Replace carpet
* Replace C6 caliper seals as one is ripped open.
* The Motive Pro gears installed summer 2019 have gotten noisy. Plan to go back to OEM gears with a competition pattern on the drive side.
* I'm probably going to buy a new ATI Superdamper. Mine is roughly 10 years old, and I'd rather have a spare than have down time waiting for the suggested rebuild.
Corner weights, car only
1006 882
726 756
Total 3370
LF/RR 52.28%
With me
1105 901
820 802
Total 3628
LF/RR 52.56%
Looking at the usual suspects for weight loss, I don't see many more permanent changes on my daily driver. I might be able to get it to 3290lbs as a quasi-race weight (temp removing speakers, mats, visors, mirror, t-tops, t-top holders, center console, rear panel divider, etc), along with lighter wheels/tires.
* Forgeline or Finspeed wheels might save me 4lbs/corner ($5-7K)
* Yoko A052's are advertised to be 3lbs lighter than these Rival S's in the same size ($1600)
* I think the specific guy I wanted to buy a carbon hood from has retired. Weight would have been 9-18lbs and $1200-$2000, depending upon options.
* I wouldn't want carbon roof panels to replace t-tops (<5lbs) unless I could easily swap between OEM design and the carbon design. That would have been $500.
* UMI RR K-member saves about 12lbs, but I don't like losing the flat guard of the OEM style
* I could save probably 10-15lbs by going back to a Braille or perhaps an Odyssey battery. But I want it to support at least 12:1 compression and an hour of key on engine off without killing the battery. No tenders.
* I don't want to get into non-OEM bumper supports or Lexan windows, door bars, or thinner Optic Armor glass that is distorted.
* I already have enough NVH, I'm not convinced I'd be happy with a lighter carpet
I am considering a dry sump, and I think the only reasonable place to put the tank is where the OEM battery sits, That would add weight, and moving the battery to the RR is a drop in the bucket in terms of cross weight. If I move the battery, I need it to have OEM reliability and safety.
- PCV: Installed MightyMouse C5 Mild catch can with drain hose & fitting top conversion. Although I am less than impressed with the engineering, it appears to provide the desired function.
- Had a shop adjust the e-brake, it's better but not great. I bought the actual tool and we'll try again.
* Rebuilt steam hose that goes under the radiator cap
* R&R'ed HVAC blower motor housing that was rattling. Evap case threads not as bad as I remembered. Cleaned out a shitload of leaves that were to the side of the blower, couldn't get all of them out though. Rattling now gone..
* Removed driver seat to find source of play, couldn't locate a method to remove the play.
* Replaced my single NGK AFX wideband with a pair of AFR500v2's
* Corner weighted (not balanced) the car
What remains related to engine overhaul:
- Replace oil dipstick tube
- Repair vacuum tank connection. I have improvised a hose but I can't figure out how to get it back into the original wiring loom.
- Replace radiator & evap line. It's functional but not pretty. DeWitts said they can make the radiator corrections for free if I send them the current radiator.
- Do something about the exhaust clearance. I doubt this will happen until I upgrade the primaries.
- Passenger side harnesses near PCM and hood strut need to be returned to OEM routing. I feel it looks like *** right now.
Other repairs off the top of my head:
* When I turn off the engine and leave the car, when I walk past the fuel door I smell fuel. Other times when I walk past it the odor is not there. Perhaps it's related to no longer having cats.
* Shop that installed my clutch cracked the plastic that the top shifter boot snaps into. Now looking for a nice graphite replacement.
* The driver lower plastic kick panel (with the foam) has a piece busted off where it snaps into the firewall. Looking for an unmolested replacement.
* Want to raise throttle pedal height for easier heel/toe shifting. Have parts for a friend and I to do it on both of our cars some weekend.
* The new inside rear view mirror driver side lens won't stay in when attempting to re-install it
* Driver door sags a bit due to worn hinges. I have replacement hinges and a hinge repair kit. Not sure which is better.
* R&R steering column to fix tilt play. Already replaced tilt pins with oversized and it was an inadequate repair.
* HVAC ***** seem to be cracking more often, I'm wondering if it's related to the vacuum tank not being connected is making the ***** harder to turn and thus more prone to cracking inside.
* Received a new lower door seal, but I'm holding off on replacing it because I had such a difficult time getting the old adhesive off the door near the hinge last time. The last replacement came loose there and it sticks out like a dogs tongue if you close the door without paying attention to it.
* Locate some ~3mm 6061-T6 hub centric 5x120 wheel spacers
* Driver seat has significant play in the bottom seat, yet it's firmly bolted to the floor.
* Need a replacement heat shield between pedals and underbody. Carpet is worn through to bare metal under mats and the mats eventually wear through also. The heat transfers into the heel of multiple sets of shoes. Need a long term overall solution.
* Fuel gauge is inaccurate, full tank is about 3/4 full on the gauge, Empty on the gauge has about 3 gallons left in the tank. Ordered the WS6Store complete drop in kit to hopefully fix it all.
* Found a rip in the t-top door seal at the bottom of the door, having problems finding a replacement
* It'd be nice to have better looking seatbelt harness latches. The plastic parts on the belt have all cracked off, even on replacement belts.
* Replace carpet
* Replace C6 caliper seals as one is ripped open.
* The Motive Pro gears installed summer 2019 have gotten noisy. Plan to go back to OEM gears with a competition pattern on the drive side.
* I'm probably going to buy a new ATI Superdamper. Mine is roughly 10 years old, and I'd rather have a spare than have down time waiting for the suggested rebuild.
Corner weights, car only
1006 882
726 756
Total 3370
LF/RR 52.28%
With me
1105 901
820 802
Total 3628
LF/RR 52.56%
Looking at the usual suspects for weight loss, I don't see many more permanent changes on my daily driver. I might be able to get it to 3290lbs as a quasi-race weight (temp removing speakers, mats, visors, mirror, t-tops, t-top holders, center console, rear panel divider, etc), along with lighter wheels/tires.
* Forgeline or Finspeed wheels might save me 4lbs/corner ($5-7K)
* Yoko A052's are advertised to be 3lbs lighter than these Rival S's in the same size ($1600)
* I think the specific guy I wanted to buy a carbon hood from has retired. Weight would have been 9-18lbs and $1200-$2000, depending upon options.
* I wouldn't want carbon roof panels to replace t-tops (<5lbs) unless I could easily swap between OEM design and the carbon design. That would have been $500.
* UMI RR K-member saves about 12lbs, but I don't like losing the flat guard of the OEM style
* I could save probably 10-15lbs by going back to a Braille or perhaps an Odyssey battery. But I want it to support at least 12:1 compression and an hour of key on engine off without killing the battery. No tenders.
* I don't want to get into non-OEM bumper supports or Lexan windows, door bars, or thinner Optic Armor glass that is distorted.
* I already have enough NVH, I'm not convinced I'd be happy with a lighter carpet
I am considering a dry sump, and I think the only reasonable place to put the tank is where the OEM battery sits, That would add weight, and moving the battery to the RR is a drop in the bucket in terms of cross weight. If I move the battery, I need it to have OEM reliability and safety.
12-09-2020, 10:46 PM
#54
Changes:
* MightyMouse C5 Mild catch continues to work pretty well to keep residue out of the intake. I can still use a blue shop towel to pickup a brownish film from inside the intake but it's not wet per se. It had a small leak from the sight glass which I slightly tightened and appears fine now. The drain tube was also wet but I suspect that was from the sight glass and not from the drain fittings. I did have the oil level reach the bottom of the sight window for the first time since installing the can.
* I bought the actual e-brake adjustment tool but haven't revisited the e-brake.
* Replaced leaking coolant level sensor
* Performed smoke test on brake booster line, minor leak in the RTV used to seal the LS1 MAP sensor in the LS3 MAP sensor bung. Tried to reseal it prior to dyno time the following day (below), haven't smoked it again to verify.
* Performed smoke test on exhaust day before dyno time (below). Minor leak on the bottom of B1 where the primaries meet the collector (welds scraped due to ground clearance). Also leaks on B2 at slip fit junction, and at the rear welds of the catless pipe.
* Moved B2 wideband farthest forward to reduce leak impact and only monitoring error from B2 at this time. Recommended exhaust shop has the same hours as me, I want new 1 7/8" headers anyway, maybe instead of repairing the current I buy new.
* Bought a custom IAT sensor with an Omega thermistor to try putting in the lid, or in the hose between the MAF tube and TB to try to reduce lean heat soak (just in time for cool weather ironically)
* My front left lower ball joint started separating. Bought some Howe Racing 22420 precision balljoints this time. It appears the old balljoints were slightly oversize, so the Howes were loose in the old arm. Luckily I had a spare set of OEM LCAs on hand with which the Howes fit fine.
* Spent some time on a load bearing dyno in the driver seat but I feel the aforementioned tiny exhaust leaks had me going in circles so I punted. I had a high temp rubber piece between my i-pipe and aftermarket suspension cross member to dull rattling. That rubber caught on fire on the dyno and the staff noticed the flickering yellow/orange light emanating from under the car and they extinguished it. That was exciting. There is a hole in my carpet below the pedals, perhaps 4x5". The rubber padding on my floor mat melted to the surface under the carpet. They used what appeared to be three blue carpet fans for front cooling, I wasn't impressed with the fans ability to mimic cooling of highway driving.
* Received the WS6Store complete drop in fuel pump kit to hopefully fix fuel gauge. Local F-body specialty shop has been unresponsive on install schedule.
* Two year old AlternatorMan CS130D alternator began dropping voltage above 5000RPM even with the 2.75" alternator pulley. Spoke with MechMan, they made it sound as if their alternators were the holy grail, supporting rotor speeds of 21-24K. Ordered an 8206250, and shop installed the alternator, then started having parasitic loss. Turns out the yellow harness wire coming out of the alternator is hot with key off. MechMan says it needs to be shipped back for inspection/repair. Sigh.
No progress on anything else.
* MightyMouse C5 Mild catch continues to work pretty well to keep residue out of the intake. I can still use a blue shop towel to pickup a brownish film from inside the intake but it's not wet per se. It had a small leak from the sight glass which I slightly tightened and appears fine now. The drain tube was also wet but I suspect that was from the sight glass and not from the drain fittings. I did have the oil level reach the bottom of the sight window for the first time since installing the can.
* I bought the actual e-brake adjustment tool but haven't revisited the e-brake.
* Replaced leaking coolant level sensor
* Performed smoke test on brake booster line, minor leak in the RTV used to seal the LS1 MAP sensor in the LS3 MAP sensor bung. Tried to reseal it prior to dyno time the following day (below), haven't smoked it again to verify.
* Performed smoke test on exhaust day before dyno time (below). Minor leak on the bottom of B1 where the primaries meet the collector (welds scraped due to ground clearance). Also leaks on B2 at slip fit junction, and at the rear welds of the catless pipe.
* Moved B2 wideband farthest forward to reduce leak impact and only monitoring error from B2 at this time. Recommended exhaust shop has the same hours as me, I want new 1 7/8" headers anyway, maybe instead of repairing the current I buy new.
* Bought a custom IAT sensor with an Omega thermistor to try putting in the lid, or in the hose between the MAF tube and TB to try to reduce lean heat soak (just in time for cool weather ironically)
* My front left lower ball joint started separating. Bought some Howe Racing 22420 precision balljoints this time. It appears the old balljoints were slightly oversize, so the Howes were loose in the old arm. Luckily I had a spare set of OEM LCAs on hand with which the Howes fit fine.
* Spent some time on a load bearing dyno in the driver seat but I feel the aforementioned tiny exhaust leaks had me going in circles so I punted. I had a high temp rubber piece between my i-pipe and aftermarket suspension cross member to dull rattling. That rubber caught on fire on the dyno and the staff noticed the flickering yellow/orange light emanating from under the car and they extinguished it. That was exciting. There is a hole in my carpet below the pedals, perhaps 4x5". The rubber padding on my floor mat melted to the surface under the carpet. They used what appeared to be three blue carpet fans for front cooling, I wasn't impressed with the fans ability to mimic cooling of highway driving.
* Received the WS6Store complete drop in fuel pump kit to hopefully fix fuel gauge. Local F-body specialty shop has been unresponsive on install schedule.
* Two year old AlternatorMan CS130D alternator began dropping voltage above 5000RPM even with the 2.75" alternator pulley. Spoke with MechMan, they made it sound as if their alternators were the holy grail, supporting rotor speeds of 21-24K. Ordered an 8206250, and shop installed the alternator, then started having parasitic loss. Turns out the yellow harness wire coming out of the alternator is hot with key off. MechMan says it needs to be shipped back for inspection/repair. Sigh.
No progress on anything else.
06-18-2021, 04:19 PM
#55
Would you happen to know what size the vacuum line is that is going from the vacuum reservior up the passenger side harness to the HVAC stuff? I also have the same problem with my dipstick tube and long tube headers and am looking into a nice clean solution
06-18-2021, 04:44 PM
#56
Vacuum tank nipple OD: 6mm
Vacuum tank nipple ID: ~3mm
OEM vacuum line OD: ~3.9mm
OEM vacuum line ID: ~2mm
What I've come up with so far is:
Tank nipple > [rubber hose, 13mm OD, 6mm ID] > 90* black PCV adapter [inlet: 6mm OD, 3.5mm ID; outlet 7.4mm OD, 3.5mm ID] > aftermarket tubing [4mm OD, 2.5mm ID] > shrink wrap to connect the tubes > OEM vacuum line
06-22-2021, 03:13 PM
#57
I haven't pursued the dipstick issue, but I can give you the vacuum line measurements. Vacuum line repair was never installed because I couldn't easily get it back into the wiring loom. Right now my patched tubing is a bit over 6' but I think that will be too long. If you happen to find a better solution for the line or dipstick then please share
Vacuum tank nipple OD: 6mm
Vacuum tank nipple ID: ~3mm
OEM vacuum line OD: ~3.9mm
OEM vacuum line ID: ~2mm
What I've come up with so far is:
Tank nipple > [rubber hose, 13mm OD, 6mm ID] > 90* black PCV adapter [inlet: 6mm OD, 3.5mm ID; outlet 7.4mm OD, 3.5mm ID] > aftermarket tubing [4mm OD, 2.5mm ID] > shrink wrap to connect the tubes > OEM vacuum line
Vacuum tank nipple OD: 6mm
Vacuum tank nipple ID: ~3mm
OEM vacuum line OD: ~3.9mm
OEM vacuum line ID: ~2mm
What I've come up with so far is:
Tank nipple > [rubber hose, 13mm OD, 6mm ID] > 90* black PCV adapter [inlet: 6mm OD, 3.5mm ID; outlet 7.4mm OD, 3.5mm ID] > aftermarket tubing [4mm OD, 2.5mm ID] > shrink wrap to connect the tubes > OEM vacuum line
will do! Thanks for the info Jim!
06-23-2021, 05:34 PM
#58
A big nuisance was knocked out a few days ago. I've been rear ended a few times in the past two decades, with the most recent incident a few years ago. After that incident, there was much more play in the power seat track assembly but the insurance adjuster didn't think it was related. I've taken chances on used rails before without luck; my center console side of the driver rail was like new, but the white plastic in the door side was obliterated. I did stumble across a NOS OEM metal tray that the foam sits in, but held off on installing. I finally gambled on another set of eBay power seat rails and lo and behold they are like new from an '02...absolutely zero play in the rails. I installed both rails & frame and it feels soooo much better now. If only I could find proper replacement foam then I'll dig back in to replace the foam and create a barrier between the foam and wires.
09-04-2021, 12:06 PM
#60
A guy I know ordered DeWitts 32-1139027M from Summit last year, and it looks like that model corrected some of the problems I had. Low level sensor fits with the clip, very snug but it works. Cap arrows don't like up if you're OCD. Cap is still slightly at an angle installed, may still need to slightly tweak evap line.
I attempted another fix of my fuel gauge misreading. Back in ~2009, I had a Racetronix 255LPH kit installed. First drive after install, gauge was whack, reading way low. Dealt with it for perhaps 8 years, then asked a dealer to fix the problem and provided a new OEM float arm to use if needed. They wrote up the work order as 'replace float arm' and not 'fix inaccurate gauge reading' so that was wasted money. Bought the WS6Store drop in kit a year ago and it's been sitting in its box since then. Had it installed this week and the gauge is still wrong, still around "3/4" full when the tank will not accept more fuel.
EDIT: I think I have the process to fix the fuel gauge calibration worked out. Just need to monitor for accuracy during fillups.
Hmm, what else has changed? Off the top of my head...
* MM catch can: Drain tube was leaking. Replaced whole hose and added heat wrap. Still doing well to keep oil residue out of the intake manifold. Passenger head mount bracket snapped in two, replaced bracket.
* E-brake: Asked dealer to adjust e-brake. Feels better, but still creaks under certain circumstances. Maybe it's not the e-brake that's creaking.
* Using ACDelco X66P through front TB PCV line appears to have killed a MAP sensor. Installed new sensor and replaced RTV with Magnusson sensor mounting parts for a cleaner look.
* Repaired cat-delete pipes and various exhaust fixed leaks. Adjusted to maximize clearance.
* Same shop tried re-installing the Mechman alternator with a new adapter harness. Connected to PCM fuse instead of fuel pump fuse like the first shop tried. Time will tell if it fixes the parasitic loss. I haven't logged it, but it appears the voltage output is a little lower now. I haven't scanned it, but I'm guessing it's closer to 13V than the 14.xV it was outputting upon the initial install (and then it went back for inspection). EDIT: Seems reliable after 10 days
* Shop that installed my clutch cracked the plastic that the top shifter boot snaps into. Replaced with a part from Hawks.
* The driver lower plastic kick panel (with the foam) has a piece busted off where it snaps into the firewall. Installed replacement from Ebay.
* The new inside rear view mirror driver side lens won't stay in when attempting to re-install it. Bought another mirror and merged the bulbs lenses, all okay now.
* Locate some ~3mm 6061-T6 hub centric 5x120 wheel spacers. Bought some off Ebay, installed at all four corners. Front left tire began rubbing against where the ground effects connect to the fender. Then it broke off a small part of that mount. When the car was in recently to install the fuel pump, I found a large part of the mount laying in their drive way, unsure if there's a fix short of replacing that driver side ground effect or all ground effects so it looks consistent.
* Rear end pinion is wobbling a little where it connects to the drive shaft. Looking for AAM 3.73 gears but every place looks out of stock.
* Tick Adj Master circa 2009 failed, rebuilt it. Slave cylinder failed due to master failure, replaced it.
* Install Detroit Speed fender flange kit.
* Install solid rack & pinion bushing
I attempted another fix of my fuel gauge misreading. Back in ~2009, I had a Racetronix 255LPH kit installed. First drive after install, gauge was whack, reading way low. Dealt with it for perhaps 8 years, then asked a dealer to fix the problem and provided a new OEM float arm to use if needed. They wrote up the work order as 'replace float arm' and not 'fix inaccurate gauge reading' so that was wasted money. Bought the WS6Store drop in kit a year ago and it's been sitting in its box since then. Had it installed this week and the gauge is still wrong, still around "3/4" full when the tank will not accept more fuel.
EDIT: I think I have the process to fix the fuel gauge calibration worked out. Just need to monitor for accuracy during fillups.Hmm, what else has changed? Off the top of my head...
* MM catch can: Drain tube was leaking. Replaced whole hose and added heat wrap. Still doing well to keep oil residue out of the intake manifold. Passenger head mount bracket snapped in two, replaced bracket.
* E-brake: Asked dealer to adjust e-brake. Feels better, but still creaks under certain circumstances. Maybe it's not the e-brake that's creaking.
* Using ACDelco X66P through front TB PCV line appears to have killed a MAP sensor. Installed new sensor and replaced RTV with Magnusson sensor mounting parts for a cleaner look.
* Repaired cat-delete pipes and various exhaust fixed leaks. Adjusted to maximize clearance.
* Same shop tried re-installing the Mechman alternator with a new adapter harness. Connected to PCM fuse instead of fuel pump fuse like the first shop tried. Time will tell if it fixes the parasitic loss. I haven't logged it, but it appears the voltage output is a little lower now. I haven't scanned it, but I'm guessing it's closer to 13V than the 14.xV it was outputting upon the initial install (and then it went back for inspection). EDIT: Seems reliable after 10 days
* Shop that installed my clutch cracked the plastic that the top shifter boot snaps into. Replaced with a part from Hawks.
* The driver lower plastic kick panel (with the foam) has a piece busted off where it snaps into the firewall. Installed replacement from Ebay.
* The new inside rear view mirror driver side lens won't stay in when attempting to re-install it. Bought another mirror and merged the bulbs lenses, all okay now.
* Locate some ~3mm 6061-T6 hub centric 5x120 wheel spacers. Bought some off Ebay, installed at all four corners. Front left tire began rubbing against where the ground effects connect to the fender. Then it broke off a small part of that mount. When the car was in recently to install the fuel pump, I found a large part of the mount laying in their drive way, unsure if there's a fix short of replacing that driver side ground effect or all ground effects so it looks consistent.
* Rear end pinion is wobbling a little where it connects to the drive shaft. Looking for AAM 3.73 gears but every place looks out of stock.
* Tick Adj Master circa 2009 failed, rebuilt it. Slave cylinder failed due to master failure, replaced it.
* Install Detroit Speed fender flange kit.
* Install solid rack & pinion bushing
Last edited by JimMueller; 09-12-2021 at 10:16 PM.