Where to go
10-03-2019, 10:19 AM
#1
Where to go Have a 2000 black ws6 that is about some suspension braces away from being street/strip ready
engine:
ls1 rebuilt approx 45k miles ago by UTI
235/243 cam 111LSA
225 PRC heads with btr .660 springs, hollow stemmed intake and I believe bronze valve guides. Have to dig through receipts
texas speed stock style rocker with upgraded bushings
morel lifters
ls6 pump
ls6 intake
42 injectors
slp lid and smooth bellow
Longtubes, ORY, Borla
drivetrain:
T56 with factory hurst and ws6 short stick
monster stage 2 with 18lb(I think it was) flywheel
aluminum 1000hp 3.5” driveshaft (also have a 3” strange chromoly shaft that is same length, both have strange slip yokes)
MWC 9”...WITH ABS AND TCS WORKING FLAWLESSLY
Strange S-Trac center section
35 spline axles
4.11 ratio
suspension:
koni adjustables on Strano springs
mwc long torque arm
poly engine mounts
275/40ZR17 gforce comp 2s less than 3k miles
Car pulls like a train, breaks gforce comp2s at ease from a punch at any speed in first and at around peak torque in 2nd, which is around 45-50mph if I remember correctly..
With sadness in my heart the last oil change she is starting to puke out very fine gold glitter. Obviously with buying a near stock ws6 I’ve got nearly 21k in this car including the price I bought it at takes a lot of wind out of my sails.
I’m not sure where to go anymore with this car, with the average newer sport cars coming out everyday that don’t touch this car but they are stock and drive like butter and mine is a wildly cammed 20 year old ls1 with early 2000 gm plastic interior..
the Oil pressure is good with 90s air temperature after a 30minute drive pressure is around 35 at idle. 45 at a cruise. Still hits 60 on a run.
Im at a loss on what to do with this car. Whether to sell it in the spring, however I have no clue what the price could be, who or where to sell it at. ALOT of value in parts however the right person would be few and far between. I have a little girl and just bought a home for my family.
What would you do? Try and get some money and walk away. Or just continue to take it out hunting on the interstate until it finally lets go. Then save for a short block from a vendor.. obviously with a new mortgage and little girl to care for my money is not what it used to be. I do have a brother who owns a shop, and labor would be close to free..however I obviously can’t pull a motor and leave a roller sitting in his bay for months.
It’s hard to walk away from a car that you’ve put so much in not just money but time with family to build that given you such great memories. Ive looked to ls1tech for help for years even when I had an lt1. So ls1tech family where would you go at this point? Replace with a forged short block and reuse the heads or just wash hands clean and get some cash?
engine:
ls1 rebuilt approx 45k miles ago by UTI
235/243 cam 111LSA
225 PRC heads with btr .660 springs, hollow stemmed intake and I believe bronze valve guides. Have to dig through receipts
texas speed stock style rocker with upgraded bushings
morel lifters
ls6 pump
ls6 intake
42 injectors
slp lid and smooth bellow
Longtubes, ORY, Borla
drivetrain:
T56 with factory hurst and ws6 short stick
monster stage 2 with 18lb(I think it was) flywheel
aluminum 1000hp 3.5” driveshaft (also have a 3” strange chromoly shaft that is same length, both have strange slip yokes)
MWC 9”...WITH ABS AND TCS WORKING FLAWLESSLY
Strange S-Trac center section
35 spline axles
4.11 ratio
suspension:
koni adjustables on Strano springs
mwc long torque arm
poly engine mounts
275/40ZR17 gforce comp 2s less than 3k miles
Car pulls like a train, breaks gforce comp2s at ease from a punch at any speed in first and at around peak torque in 2nd, which is around 45-50mph if I remember correctly..
With sadness in my heart the last oil change she is starting to puke out very fine gold glitter. Obviously with buying a near stock ws6 I’ve got nearly 21k in this car including the price I bought it at takes a lot of wind out of my sails.
I’m not sure where to go anymore with this car, with the average newer sport cars coming out everyday that don’t touch this car but they are stock and drive like butter and mine is a wildly cammed 20 year old ls1 with early 2000 gm plastic interior..
the Oil pressure is good with 90s air temperature after a 30minute drive pressure is around 35 at idle. 45 at a cruise. Still hits 60 on a run.
Im at a loss on what to do with this car. Whether to sell it in the spring, however I have no clue what the price could be, who or where to sell it at. ALOT of value in parts however the right person would be few and far between. I have a little girl and just bought a home for my family.
What would you do? Try and get some money and walk away. Or just continue to take it out hunting on the interstate until it finally lets go. Then save for a short block from a vendor.. obviously with a new mortgage and little girl to care for my money is not what it used to be. I do have a brother who owns a shop, and labor would be close to free..however I obviously can’t pull a motor and leave a roller sitting in his bay for months.
It’s hard to walk away from a car that you’ve put so much in not just money but time with family to build that given you such great memories. Ive looked to ls1tech for help for years even when I had an lt1. So ls1tech family where would you go at this point? Replace with a forged short block and reuse the heads or just wash hands clean and get some cash?
10-04-2019, 11:33 AM
#2
TECH Resident
Pick up a 6.0 from the local junkyard as cheap as possible. When the LS blows swap everything to the 6.0 and get back on the road. You'll gain a hundred pounds, but you'll get a few more cubes and won't spend much time or money getting back on track. That's pretty much the standard operating procedure since junkyard blocks are only a few hundred dollars.
Other option is to order a bearing kit and a gasket kit and change the bearings now before it does any damage. It's the cheapest option and can be done fairly quickly if you have the tools and know how. Just remember to flush out the oil passages before you put it back together.
Other option is to order a bearing kit and a gasket kit and change the bearings now before it does any damage. It's the cheapest option and can be done fairly quickly if you have the tools and know how. Just remember to flush out the oil passages before you put it back together.
10-04-2019, 11:54 AM
#3
Would the ls2 6.0 be a direct drop in? I’ve really been eyeballing some of Texas speeds ls1 392 short blocks. But that’s a lot of cash. I’d have to use credit to purchase something that substantial and id rather not go in debt over a toy car. I found a nicely done short block on eBay but I’m pretty leery over not using a credible vendor.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F254348703481
this is what I see on eBay. I don’t have the knowledge really to tear apart a bottom end. I’d like something that I could swap fairly quickly vs pulling pistons and crank etc. which is why I’m either at a new block or a for sale sign kind of decision. But How long would you estimate it take to pull motor swap rod and main and car bearings? My brother could do it as he used to rebuild blown up cat diesels and used to build older SBCs. It’s just the matter of talking him into helping out lil bro lol
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F254348703481
this is what I see on eBay. I don’t have the knowledge really to tear apart a bottom end. I’d like something that I could swap fairly quickly vs pulling pistons and crank etc. which is why I’m either at a new block or a for sale sign kind of decision. But How long would you estimate it take to pull motor swap rod and main and car bearings? My brother could do it as he used to rebuild blown up cat diesels and used to build older SBCs. It’s just the matter of talking him into helping out lil bro lol
10-04-2019, 08:59 PM
#4
TECH Resident
If you want quick and cheap get the iron 6.0 from an 01-05 truck or van. That's the LQ4 or LQ9. The LS2 is aluminum so you don't gain any weight, but it costs a good bit more. The issue with going to the LS2 is making sure it has the right crank wheel and then just relocating the knock sensors. Having someone replace the bearings on your engine will be the cheapest option if you can convince your brother to give you a good hourly rate.
10-04-2019, 09:35 PM
#5
Okay. Say I went with a bearing replacement. Wouldn’t that involve having the crank turned and things for new bearings??? I thought that was a requirement? Sorry for my lack of knowledge in this department. Obviously if I did that I’d want to use some stronger arp or katech hardware
10-05-2019, 11:02 AM
#6
TECH Resident
As of now you don't know what the problem is. You may have a cam bearing issue which means you don't have to touch the crank. You may have a bunch of crap that just worked itself loose after the last rebuild which means you need to change the oil more until it clears up. You may have a complete mess in the motor and it's getting ready to seize at any moment. There's no way to know without a visual check.