tonyorlo

I have a very “newb” question. Should I rebuild my engine? Lol. I have a 89 Chevy K2500 that I swapped a Rebuild L31 and a NV4500 into about 2 years ago. Kept the 89s TBI, it’s never not started and ran for me, but I’d like something better for highway trips and pulling a trailer.

I picked up a 02 Chevy 3500 with a 6.0 and a NV4500. I’m not sure if it’s a LQ4 or 9 though. The truck ran on starting fluid, and it clearly needed a fuel pump. I did not see the gauges so I’m unsure of everything while running. It has 110xxx miles on it. I have it pulled and put it out in a dollied engine cradle.

My thought is to check compression and oil pressure while on the cradle using the starter. Just to see what numbers I get from it. I will have to plug the oil cooler lines. Is this commonly done on these Gen 3 engines?

I have been daily driving my Porsche 944 with a 254k mile LM7 for around 7 months now and I’m shocked how well it runs for the mileage. I do plan to build another LM7 for it in the future. I am just very impressed with how these engines are. At 110k miles I wonder if it would be worth tearing into?

I do understand every situation is different and there are no cookie cutter answers.

tonyorlo

I feel better about it after pulling the valve covers. I will still pull the heads to see if I have a LQ4 or 9. That and I always worry dirt gets in places it shouldn’t when pulling these engines apart.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

I've swapped them with 150,000 to over 200,000 miles and most of them just get gaskets and cam kit for more power. If you're not able to hear it run long enough to listen for noises or get an oil pressure reading I would do just as you said. Run a compression test (cold readings are usually slightly lower then a warm engine) and when you crank it over for your oil pressure test leave the spark plugs out, It will turn over faster and easier.
If you can borrow a bore scope from someone you can get a look at the cylinders, With 110,000 you'll probably see the crosshatch is still visible.
They sell oil cooler delete plates for less than $25

My daily driver is has 235,000 miles and still runs perfectly, My winter truck has 225,000 and also runs great.

What are your plans for the engine?

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

No need to pull the heads, LQ4 has dished pistons and the LQ9 will have flat-top, You might be able to shine a flashlight into a spark plug hole and see what you have, If not borrow a bore scope. Depending on what your plans are you might not even need to pull the heads.

tonyorlo

The truck this engine is going into will be lucky to see 5,000 miles a year and that’s really pushing it. It’s used for driving in the snow, or if I need to haul something. With the 6.0 it will probably be pulling a car trailer randomly. There’s no need for big power.

Id like to use the original radiator, so I will probably retain the oil cooler, looks like I could fab a temporary block off plate just to run a test.

Once I pull the oil pan then I’ll know for sure how it was treated. When I used the LM7 for my last swap, I cleaned the long block with kerosene. I will probably do this to that engine as well.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

That's a big NO on the block off plate, You need a bypass plate, If you block off the holes your blocking off the oil itself. Oil flows out and back in so either test with a bypass plate or oil cooler connect or looped.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

It's an LQ4. A 3500 would have only had an LQ4
The LQ9 only came in the 1500 series trucks and SUV's

cpressl90

if you have good oil pressure and compression i wouldn't worry about it.