UBMIXIN

Newbie to the Community here. This may or may not be the place for this but........ I own a 2007 Burb 2WD, LY5 AFM engine Stock with 300,000 miles. Original old VLOM that I could turn the 1st two bolts by finger under intake. She leaks oil but runs good and gives me 22mpg on the Hwy. It ticked on and off and rattled like a Diesel. A couple years ago I installed a Melling M295 HV Oil pump and she runs smooth as butter with a constant 60 oil pressure on dash.... no ticks or rattles since then, but still leaked a little. Recently though I've been getting some cold start ticking that sometimes doesn't go away for up to 15-25 miles. I put some Restore Upper Cylinder Lubricant in it and things changed...... 1st, my oil pressure would be stable but then drop down to 40 at Idle in P and D.... While driving the pressure would be slightly lower than 60. I figured the oil filter was being clogged a little from the THICK Restore and needed a few miles to blend well. I ran it for 765 miles with Restore. I can't tell if the Restore did anything. I didn't have any problems except for the lower pressure at Idle. I just changed the Oil yesterday and pressure is constant 60 again. I know the Restore has Metallics particles in it and I was worried about those AFM screens getting clogged too. Question... Has anyone ever ran Restore in an AFM Engine and how/what did it do?

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

I don't think a single one of those "magic in a bottle" fixes does anything but make your wallet lighter.

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

Maybe the screen at the oil pressure sensor was blocking? That's a very common thing.

Your best bet right now would be to DISABLE your DoD/AFM with a tuner. As long as you catch it in a working state, that'll actually prevent it from breaking because it usually breaks when coming out of activation and the pins don't lock leaving the lifter collapsed. If they are working well now, disabling means the pins will stay locked just where they are for the remainder of the life of the engine. That's how I understand it.

Magic in a bottle has basically never worked for me, and I've tried a bunch in my junkers over the years. The only exception was once I had a beater that had a bad coolant leak and the bars head gasket sealer fixed it for like 2 years LOL.. but that was a $500 car.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

When I was a kid, I had a go kart that got some pretty knarly vertical scratches in the cylinder wall and it smoked. I decided to try some restore in it and then look at the cylinder walls again after some runtime. I do not remember if it stopped smoking, which it probably did because it 100% filled the scratches in with an epoxy like material. I'm not one for snake oil either, but thats the observation i had.

Op, it probably wouldn't hurt to run a little Marvel Mystery Oil in the motor oil. That stuff does work for cleaning and unsticking. So does transmission fluid, 1-2 quarts per 5 quarts. But drive it easy because it'll thin the oil. It will unstick noisy lifters. I know this from personal experience on more than one occasion. I'd do the trans fluid/ oil mix first, for about 100 miles and then change the oil. then run a little MMO in it.

UBMIXIN

Yeah I usually don't use qwik fix stuff but figured I'm close to end of this Engine. If I can make it last another year, I'll drop in the LY6

LS1 TJ

My buddy used to work for IBM as a service tech and drove the wheels off his cars. He used some type of "rings in a can" and he had somewhat good luck. Did it buy 10,000 miles or 2 miles? Hard to say. Worth a shot.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff. Our tractor sat for over a year. My dad tried to start it and it cranked and cranked and cranked. I put a little bit of MMO in the gas tank and it fired right up. Did the same thing with a buddy's chainsaw that wouldn't start. He fiddled with it it for a half hour. Put some MMO in it and it fired up on the second pull.