I know you're rolling your eyes, but hear me out. As best I could tell from the search, this hasn't been covered before.

I just checked last night and have thus far burned 1.5 qts in 2000 miles (this is with M1 0w40). When I used to run the 10w30 M1, I changed it every 5000 miles, which worked fine (with less consumption, too ).

So if I stick with the 5k change interval, I will burn almost 4 qts by then. Do I actually need to change the oil? Because if I just change the filter and add a quart at 5k, then that's 5 new quarts of oil since the last oil change.

I just look at it this way, GM's innovation continues to amaze me on the LS1. After all, they perfected the "self-changing" oil feature

 

Why dont you swtich back to 10w30?

 

why do you wait to push your oil change intervals to 5000 miles, your engine isnt stock and it probably isnt driven like someones grocery getter , id stick to a 3000 mile interval and run the M1 10w-30,thats the price we pay for horsepower any mod on your engine is going to take something away everyone knows they have a PCV problem,by the way i used to run M1 in my car but was sick and tired of weird leaks and 3 quarts of oil by 3000 miles so i switched to Rotella T 15w-40 available from walmart $7.50 a gallon .synthetic lacks some of the important additives that are in conventional petroleum based oils,i have no oil use problems and my oil pressure is more consistent from cold start to warm idle conditions.

 

This is the first oil change with the 0w40. I switched because it's supposedly "the best," but I'm skeptical. I still consumed oil with the 10w30, but it sure sounded like 0w40 would fix it for me, according to all the hype. I don't think it's any worse with the 40, but it certainly isn't better.

I'm going to try the new PCV valve to see if it makes a difference, but if it keeps this rate up, I'll switch back or to something entirely different.

Krazy K - how's your consumption with the dino 15w40? Last time I changed plugs, I had oil on the threads.

 

I moved my PVC valve and set it up like more conventional system where the PCV valve sits in the valve cover instead of sideways infront of the intake.

 

If you went from M1 10W30 to M1 0W40, you should have noticed a drop in oil usage (not an increase), unless your driving style changed for that interval.

The M1 0W40 is a thicker oil than the M1 10W30.

I just recently switched from M1 10W30 to M1 0W40 as well. My car does not burn any oil with either weight. I did notice an improvement in warm idle oil pressure and a decent reduction in valvetrain noise going to the 0W40.

 

PS.

I get some oil on the plug threads as well (only on the threads, never the electrode), but only on 2 cylinders (#7 and #2 or #4, can't remember at the moment).

I'm not entirely sure why that happens, but I don't think it goes hand and hand with noticeable oil consumption. As stated above, my motor uses no noticeable amount of oil, even under hard driving in high heat.