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Do you let your motor warm up?

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Old 10-25-2006, 09:54 AM
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http://videos.streetfire.net/recentv...4f005e05f3.htm
Old 10-25-2006, 10:53 AM
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your rear end will be fine not warmed up.

i usually sit 1 minute and drive it part throttle for 5-10 until i'm at at least 120 coolant temp. dont want the trans to be too cold either.
Old 10-25-2006, 11:40 AM
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LMAO
Old 10-25-2006, 11:53 AM
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I park mine in the garage but still let it warm up for about five minutes or until the idle drops back down.
Old 10-27-2006, 12:05 PM
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With FI you really don't have to worry so much about letting the car warm up. I usually let it go about a minute at most, then I am easy on it at first...before all hell breaks loose, lol!
Old 10-27-2006, 01:03 PM
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never let it warm up just sitting in the garage. But always keep the RPM's under 2000 until the temp guage comes up to where is should be just normal driving. By then it has enough heat in it, that it isn't going to hurt anything.
Old 10-27-2006, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 01Z28MN6
never let it warm up just sitting in the garage. But always keep the RPM's under 2000 until the temp guage comes up to where is should be just normal driving. By then it has enough heat in it, that it isn't going to hurt anything.
.lol....water heater + exhaust = BOOM!!
Unless your garage door is open and your car's *** is facing outside.

Half Temp oar 5 minutes for me.
Old 10-27-2006, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by AllShowNoGo
Every time i get into my car i let it warm up for atleast 2 min so that the RPMs drop and so the motor gets a little heat in it. Is this necessary?
No, it is not. Just take it easy until it is warm.

I let it idle just long enough for the idle to get back down. About as long as it takes to put on my seatbelt and pick a radio station.
Old 10-27-2006, 09:03 PM
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ive had my car backed in and let it warm up, and its 8-10' from my water heater. never knew the BOOM theory though

Originally Posted by WS6 Rampage
.lol....water heater + exhaust = BOOM!!
Unless your garage door is open and your car's *** is facing outside.

Half Temp oar 5 minutes for me.
Old 10-27-2006, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by StoleIt
Unless your car is a 98 that temp guage is useless, just so you know.
his car is a V6 firebird

i let my car run for 30 seconds to 1 minute in the summer time, 2 - 3 minutes in the wintertime, when there's snow on the ground 5 minutes or until i can get the ice off my windshield.
Old 10-27-2006, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Charging TA
Man some of this stuff is just outrageous...

Few things to point out... Our cars in mostly stock form are nothing close to supercars or anything of the sort, they are just cars and they were designed to be driven by GM. When I say this I dont mean start your car and start reving it high (back in High School there was a kid with a 68 Camaro who would do that, funny thing was he was in Automotive... Shows what that program taught) but could you see yourself explaining to a passenger "oh we gotta wait here for a few minutes, gotta let the engine warm up... otherwise it might break".

I usually start it up, turn on my lights (have to use lights all day here), adjust my seat if I have to, buckle up, etc... and then keep the engine below 2k until its warm. (knock on wood)...
Thanks for making some sense. I've had plenty of cars I've driven to 100,000+. I've never lost a motor. I've always "start and go". The most important thing you can do to extend engine life is change your oil.
Old 10-27-2006, 11:40 PM
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i have to let it warm up cause i need a tune bad. my cam likes to surge bad.
________________________________
02 t/a a4. 6.0l LQ9, comp cam, lid, mac mids, ory, borla.
Old 10-28-2006, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeeVert
Thanks for making some sense. I've had plenty of cars I've driven to 100,000+. I've never lost a motor. I've always "start and go". The most important thing you can do to extend engine life is change your oil.
Thanks for agreeing, I have heard people mention on a higher mileage motor not to change "too often" because that could start cleaning out the deposits which could cause you to run into problems.

But with our Powerstrokes and Ram 3500s (Cummins) which each got over 150,000 miles a year we were changing oils every two weeks per truck since they were brand new, so in a case like that Id continue that regular pace.
Old 10-28-2006, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Charging TA
Thanks for agreeing, I have heard people mention on a higher mileage motor not to change "too often" because that could start cleaning out the deposits which could cause you to run into problems.

Why in the heck would cleaning out deposits cause you problems?
Old 10-28-2006, 05:34 PM
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I just get in and go. I just dont go over 2,500 RPM's until it's at least at 210 on the Gauge
Old 10-28-2006, 05:35 PM
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I always let my truck, car and any other vehicle we have idle for atleast one minute before driving. With 5W-30 in a SBC it takes about a minute for the oil to reach the rockers, about 90 seconds with 10w-30. Thats what I've herd. Besides that, I just do it to let everything warm up gradually and as slow as possible. Just better off for the bearings etc..

My brother has a 1994 S10 with the 4.3 H.O and 4l60E, he bought it when he was 16, with 207,000 miles on it. All orginal. Just this past monday she turned 370,000! And the amazing part is the only thing ever done to the drivetrain,(knock on wood) the 1-2 shift spring broke a few years ago. Replaced it, he's always let it idle for atleast a minute before driving. Even with mobil 1 5w-30, I serviced it a few weeks ago, he went 4800 miles on the service, and even more amazing is it literally used 1/8th of a quart of oil.
Old 10-28-2006, 06:12 PM
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I've always used Mobil 1 oil and today I thought I would try the Royal Purple . First thing I noticed was the car didn't tick after it was stone cold on start up.It might not work in your case and Royal Purple is NOT cheap but it worked for me. Might be worth a try. I used 5w30.....
Old 10-29-2006, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Why in the heck would cleaning out deposits cause you problems?
They can clog the filter and possibly passages and also cause leakage on dry seals. This is why its not recommended to switch to a synthetic on a high mileage motor either.
Old 10-29-2006, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Charging TA
They can clog the filter and possibly passages and also cause leakage on dry seals. This is why its not recommended to switch to a synthetic on a high mileage motor either.
The not switching to synthetic is a bit of a myth. If you are worried about deposits breaking off (I wouldn't want them to stay in the motor!) put some seafoam in it before taking the old oil out.
Old 10-29-2006, 11:48 AM
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Start it up, adjust seat, release parking brake, turn off TCS, adjust tilt on the steering wheel, fiddle with the heater/ac controls/radio if needed, take off driving easy til everything's nice and warmed up.


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