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Mobile 1, Why all the hate?

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Old 11-18-2006, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
5-30 requires more viscosity improvers and shears down a hair more. I went with 10-30 EP as it is probably the most shear-resistant of the line.
While I do not dispute this conclusion, it is hard to prove since Mobil 1 does not publish their shear numbers like some of the others do (at least not on that link you provided). That said, it is my understanding that the oils with the lower numbers generally begin life from a better base stock than the others.
Old 11-18-2006, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BOWTIE
While I do not dispute this conclusion, it is hard to prove since Mobil 1 does not publish their shear numbers like some of the others do (at least not on that link you provided). That said, it is my understanding that the oils with the lower numbers generally begin life from a better base stock than the others.

Oil analysis's from BITOG have proved the point that 5-30 shears more than 10-30.

I am really awaiting Patman's take on all this. Guy knows his stuff. My basic question is: My car seems to sound/feel good with 10-30M1, am I increasing wear using it?
Old 11-19-2006, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
Oil analysis's from BITOG have proved the point that 5-30 shears more than 10-30.
Shears more at/beyond what mileage, roughly?
Old 11-19-2006, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
I am really awaiting Patman's take on all this. Guy knows his stuff.
Pat is the man!!! He's a great guy that is always willing to help.
I consider him a friend.

Best way to get in touch with him would be a PM.
Old 11-19-2006, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Pat is the man!!! He's a great guy that is always willing to help.
I consider him a friend.

Best way to get in touch with him would be a PM.

His PM box hates me by now, lol.
Old 11-19-2006, 04:35 PM
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I dont think that there is hate for Mobil 1 overall - I think the hate is for Mobil 1 30 weight. Many of us have figured out that the LS1 responds nicely to a thicker oil, and 40 weight can help with oil consumption and valvetrain noise.
Old 11-19-2006, 04:40 PM
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so all in all, what M1 oil should i use? Using 5w-30 right now and would like to see if i can quiet down the engine compartment alittle. Its not like its loud or anything but u notice it when ur the one drivin it!
Old 11-19-2006, 04:42 PM
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I work for BP (who owns Castrol) and we use mobil synthetic in all our equipment. You figure it out.
Old 11-19-2006, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Toxic Texan
I work for BP (who owns Castrol) and we use mobil synthetic in all our equipment. You figure it out.
So are u telling me off or something? Just asking a question man.
Old 11-19-2006, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by gyrene2003
so all in all, what M1 oil should i use? Using 5w-30 right now and would like to see if i can quiet down the engine compartment alittle. Its not like its loud or anything but u notice it when ur the one drivin it!
Try the M1 0W40. I went from their 10W30 to the 0W40 and it cut my valvetrain noise in half.
Old 11-19-2006, 05:00 PM
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thnx man
Old 11-19-2006, 05:20 PM
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Your choice in oils should not be based on the sound the engine makes, but rather the oil analysis at the end of YOUR ENGINE's oil cycle.

That is the only true way to know if your choice in oil is helping or harming your engine.

Second, the LSx series of engines are noisy when compared to today's other modern engines. So unless it's knocking around like a jackhammer or sounding like someone is continuously banging on your block with a hammer, I would think most of your "noisy" complaints are actually typical LSx sounds.

As for doing harm to your engine, yes you can do harm with a thicker oil. Thicker oils = lower viscosity = higher oil pressure = less volume per time. So while you may have "quieted your engine" thanks to a thicker oil, you may find it starving at the higher rpm's for getting oil to the rest of the engine. This is why you don't just drop a 50 wt oil into your engine for the sake of quieting it. Also in comparing engines to say a DOHC 4 banger or something is just plain wrong as the designs make this an apples to oranges comparison.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html
Old 11-19-2006, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
Oil analysis's from BITOG have proved the point that 5-30 shears more than 10-30.

I am really awaiting Patman's take on all this. Guy knows his stuff. My basic question is: My car seems to sound/feel good with 10-30M1, am I increasing wear using it?
If you read BITOG you should know already they're saying M1 is no longer a full synthetic, just a synthetic blend.
Old 11-19-2006, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
Mobile 1 10-30 weight oil catches SUCH A BAD RAP! on this site. Why? You guys dont bat an eye at 10-30 Syntec (which is almost a full point thinner CST@100*C
because hardly anyone on this site uses 10W-30 syntec, but we've mentioned OVER AND OVER how much better the german syntec is over the american syntec. so yes, we do.

Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
You guys dont diss 10-30 dino oils like GTX
yes, we do. we say over and over to use synthetics over conventional oil.

Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
WHY!? do people hate Mobile 1 10-30 and is there a problem running it in my car. My car makes less rocker noise with the M1 10-30 (10.7 CST) than the 10-40 Syntec (13.2 CST) stuff. I run 6qts as per recommendation by Patman with the stock size filter.
first off, american castrol syntec isn't that great. it's been said over and over. it's base oil is not synthetic. it's conventional crude.

now, to answer your mobil 1 question - because people have it beaten into their head that mobil 1 5W-30 and 10W-30 are the best oils for our cars. they complain about piston slap, lifter ticking and oil consumption, yet they have no idea that their mobil 1 water oil is causing the grunt of this. it doesn't matter if your engine is performing well on mobil 1 xW-30. the point is, it could run better. the oil analyses done with mobil 1 xW-30 come back worse than with GC 0W-30, mobil 1 0W-40, mobil 1 5W-40, etc. mobil 1 xW-30 isn't good oil for the LS1. period. it's not the worst oil, but for what else is out there, it isn't the best. i wouldn't run mobil 1 xW-30 in my LS1 if it was free, and i do mean that 100%.

if you really don't know the answer to your questions, send your oil in for analysis. then run a good oil like GC 0W-30 or mobil 1 5W-40. you'll never touch the 30 weight again.

Last edited by ChocoTaco369; 11-19-2006 at 07:06 PM.
Old 11-19-2006, 07:13 PM
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so 40ws are better, thats what it comes down to right?
Old 11-19-2006, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by gyrene2003
so 40ws are better, thats what it comes down to right?
When it comes to M1 oil for use in an LS1 motor, it seems that 40w is in fact better.
Old 11-19-2006, 09:21 PM
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just got done doing an oil change 6qts of GC 0w30 and a K&N HP-2006 long oil filter.The filter is not that much longer then stock and the 6 qts put me just a hair over the fill mark on the dipstick.Will see how it does.
Old 11-20-2006, 02:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
because hardly anyone on this site uses 10W-30 syntec, but we've mentioned OVER AND OVER how much better the german syntec is over the american syntec. so yes, we do.


yes, we do. we say over and over to use synthetics over conventional oil.


first off, american castrol syntec isn't that great. it's been said over and over. it's base oil is not synthetic. it's conventional crude.

now, to answer your mobil 1 question - because people have it beaten into their head that mobil 1 5W-30 and 10W-30 are the best oils for our cars. they complain about piston slap, lifter ticking and oil consumption, yet they have no idea that their mobil 1 water oil is causing the grunt of this. it doesn't matter if your engine is performing well on mobil 1 xW-30. the point is, it could run better. the oil analyses done with mobil 1 xW-30 come back worse than with GC 0W-30, mobil 1 0W-40, mobil 1 5W-40, etc. mobil 1 xW-30 isn't good oil for the LS1. period. it's not the worst oil, but for what else is out there, it isn't the best. i wouldn't run mobil 1 xW-30 in my LS1 if it was free, and i do mean that 100%.

if you really don't know the answer to your questions, send your oil in for analysis. then run a good oil like GC 0W-30 or mobil 1 5W-40. you'll never touch the 30 weight again.

My car uses no oil (if it does, its like .1qt every 500 miles at most last I checked I couldnt tell any was missing.), and is QUIETER with 10-30 M1 than it was with 10-40 syntec.
Old 11-20-2006, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
5-30 requires more viscosity improvers and shears down a hair more. I went with 10-30 EP as it is probably the most shear-resistant of the line.
This is generally true in any manufacturer's lineup, mineral or synthetic. This is one reason some don't like/are fearful of 5W-40s, even though I have NO FEAR in using this weight from Redline, Amsoil, Castrol (BC), Motul or Fuchs (Silkolene). But, if at all possible there is less chance of shearing with a closer "spread" in the viscosity rating.
BTW; most of the "hate" for Mobil 1 is directed towards the NON EP line. Even Patman usually says the EP line is OK.
Old 11-20-2006, 12:46 PM
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There's nothing wrong with Mobil1 Xw-30 that moving up to Xw-40 won't fix.

GC may produce the best performance numbers in an oil analysis, but if you can't find it what difference does it make? Sure, some of you are lucky enough to have it in your area, or have the $$$ to buy it at online prices...but many of us don't have either.

And for us, the easiest way to get the best performance at a reasonable cost is to use a 40weight Mobil1. I feel no shame for doing it.

I just can't imagine how anyone can still be using regular petroleum oils even in their lawn mowers.



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