BLKWS.6

Where is/can I find this check valve? (purchase and where does it go?)

As to being freaked out, I dont think this qualifies, just mild irritation. The IAC freaked me out.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

go to napa, autozone, etc. and ask for an AIR injection check valve for your year/make/model car.

BLKWS.6

Bank 1, is that driver or passenger?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

B1 is driver's side. If you follow the AIR line hard pipe off each manifold for about 6-8" you'll see a black ball looking thing on each side. It connects the hard pipe to the soft rubber AIR line. That is the check valve.

BLKWS.6

I will remove/replace/inspect this. I am led to belive this is the problem as if it were the pump both B1 and B2 would be throwing codes. You guys pretty sure this is it as well?

BLKWS.6

HOLY CRAP! I never saw it before, talk about an elephant in the livingroom...The front requires 2 wrenches and the back is a soft connect/disconnect, right?

ZFan88

iTrader: (4)

lol wow

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

youre a looong way from your 5.0 projuect now

BLKWS.6

Ok, removed the valve along with the tube that goes to the manifold. I blew through it and the new valve. MAJOR DIFFERENCE! Also, the old one could be blown backwards through just a little. Well, it wont come off the tube (8' cheater pipe and vice just rounded the threads). Anyways, as I said a long time ago, love the car, but I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND an F-body to anyone who cant afford a couple hundred $$ in parts per month. If you can, then you will love every minute, great car. Just get good friends like I have and thats all it will cost, otherwise you can tripple that to include labor on fixing her. So far loving it, just annoyed that It will take the dealership until late wednessday to get my part in (I bought the valve from Advance Auto parts, but the other was dealer only). I think/hope this will solve it!

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

i thinks thats just you. i can go a few months without replacing something. well ill replace it even if its not bad.

in the 9 months ive had the car, ive only replaced the FPR, TPS, and the window motors are coming out soon.

BLKWS.6

Wheel bearings (only 1 was bad but why not do both?)
IAC
VATS (somehow they fixed it, loose connection?)
AIR check valve

Still have my paper plates baby! If you want fast, buy GM, if you want something that doesnt break often, buy Import.

mc01ta

i think you just bought a car that needed maintenance, not just a typcial fbody. Maybe if you spent more time looking/talking with the place/person you bought it from and looked over past maintenance papers you wouldn't have bought a car that needed it the minute you bought it. You seem to freak out over ever detail about this car. its a car, and a nice one. It will need work, its not perfect. These are routine items so treat them accordingly.

NDFORSPD

I highly disagree with the import comment too, many of my buddies have "reliable imports" that need more work than my DD GTP per month! thats just a myth, and any import ive seen that is over 8-10yrs rusts like a sardine can in Toronto's salt....no thanks! the ONLY thing I have come up with my TA in 3 yrs of ownership(soon to be 4) is the coolant sensor....which went in the start of May, the best part is Im waiting til next yr when I get a coolant flush done to replace it!!!!. Its all on how the previous owner treated the car...or lack of!

BLKWS.6

I am not freaking over it, just pissed at the dealership for not having the part and charging me $80 for a damn metal tube with pipe threads on one end. I cancelled my order and my dad somehow got the fitting off YAY, will go put it on in a bit and see how she runs after I get the SES codes turned off. I bet it fixes it.

BLKWS.6

Well, Mr. Bob, due to lack of maintenance your IAC failed. We recommend NOT using your AC or at least leaving it on or off at the same setting all the time as it inimizes movement of the IAC motor. We also discovered your AIR check valve is clogged with carbon. Not driving the car would solve this perfectly. Also, your VATS is acting up. Possibly inserting and turning the key over and over caused your issue.- GM

^sorry...even for GM thats a stretch, lol. Its just stuff wears out and you cant help it man. NO WAY could an IAC be due to lack of maintenance, ect. Point is, I love the car and I know now its going to be maintenance intensive to keep such a high strung car from the factory. Im cool with it, just took me a month to get on board and understand this fact of life.

NDFORSPD

Yeah dealerships are another story all together, it is hard at times to determine problems on a car, let alone how well a car has been taken care of previously. Thats why this board is amazing, free advice from people who know more about the car then your service advisor does!...lol or in some cases GM!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

BLKWS.6, I'm not sure you've owned enough cars yet to make this claim:

I've had about 14 cars in the last 12 years. Only 3 were not GM. My Toyota broke just as often as ANY GM car I ever owned with comparable mileage.

As usual, you are stereotyping a large group of cars based on one. I know it sucks that you keep having issues, but you have to remember that you are in the minority here. Most stockish LS1s are VERY reliable. Many, many LS1 owners here have already attested to that over and over again.

SladeX

In well over a year of owning my car I've had 1 repair I really didn't need to do asap. It was a minor pinion seal leak of the 10 bolt. Other than a few drips in the garage, I could have waited till the spring, but the good weather made this an easy fix.

Before car came to me, previous owner added BFG KDW tires and new stock brakes. Changed EGR valve due to known EGR malfunction.

For any car, you should do a mandatory fluid change on everything along with whatever filters exist in the car.

Everything else I've done to my car is a mod.

I replaced the clutch because at WOT, you'd swear it may have been slipping, but it was hard to tell. I swapped for LS7 clutch and found while it had some heat marks, I had enough material to go 100k more.

I changed to Optima Redtop Battery (had stock one, 8 years old)
I changed the lid.
I did a tuneup (debatable since looking at my stock wires/plugs dyno chart vs the NGK TR55/MSD wire dyno chart, the stock set was silky smooth as far as curves go).
I added a 6.5 inch short stick.
Added poly transmission mount.
I put brembo blanks in front. (stock set while working and thick warped too damn easily for my tastes)
Changed Front Swaybar to thicker one
Swapped to LS7 clutch and LS2 flywheel + 01/02 slave
Swapped to LS6 intake
Added Hotchkis LCA's

I also have the complete GM history when serviced at GM + a maintanance log of the car from purchase to when he sold it with consistent oil changes at regular intervals. I've now kept my own set of records for it on my computer as to what I've done even down to each fill up and mileage.

The car looks newer than my sister's 05 Accord bought a month before I got my 98 Z28. Did I mention I've nailed down almost 20k miles in that time span?

BLKWS.6

Meh, well this was a simple fix. I wasnt freaking out over it, its just the FREQUENCY with which little stuff goes wrong is amazing...I wont lie, I love GM and htis IS not typical. My 170K mile LT1 only had 1 issue from 147-170K miles (bought-sold) and that was a heater core. Expected.

Dad used a stilson wrench to remove the fitting from the tube (GM part # 29 driver side, MSRP $58) and we put the new check valve on and I drove the car to autozone who cleared the codes which did not re-appear. I cleaned the old valve. It still doesnt flow that well, but much better than before at least. Anywho, I bet the right one goes out sometime soon the way this one looked. All is well

Oh...sorry to hi-jack my own thread, but...I have not looked yet, can I "aim" my headlights? Ever since I bought the car they seem a tad off from what I want, any tips/tools?

SladeX

Maintenance is maintenance, it really depends on how on top of things the previous owner was plus a bit of luck on the side.

You can aim the headlights using some torx bits or something, there's two of them per headlight, up down and left right usually. It's there, just look carefully.