lets talk a/c
The refrigerant never goes bad and never needs to be topped off unless theres a leak.
The pressure switch could be going bad.
There is an orifice that could get clogged, but it's a closed system- if it's clogged it's clogged with (usually) worn compressor parts.
If the compressor is going out it will usually become more noisey.
Could be a fan relay, the low speed engine cooling fan should come on with the compressor.
If the system has ever been worked on or added freon to, it could be contaminated, usually with air. It might cool well still but you will notice it on real hot days.
Could be a dirty blower (inside the car), a piece of paper or something sucked into the air intake, or the evaporator coil may be dirty and restricting airflow.
You should get a 40 to 50 degree temperature difference between outdoor air temp and temp of air coming out of the vent.
What are your pressures and temperatures?
You can pinch the heater hoses off to be sure no coolant goes to the heater core just to test that the heat door isn't open.
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B.
If what you're saying was correct 100 outdoor temp and a 20 difference would mean 80 degrees coming out of the vent. To me thats a system thats not working.
I am an a/c tech I drive around with a spare thermometer in the work vans vent and it gets to 50-55 no problem on a 95 degree day.
Automotive a/c is refered to as direct cooling, meaning it blows directly on the occupants therefore ambient (surrounding air) inside the car doesn't matter much it will cool eventually but the air blowing right on you is what provides comfort. Totally opposite of a house a/c system, in fact 16-20 degree split between intake air and discharge air temp is what we shoot for, almost sounds like you're talking about house a/c.
B.


