Incubus

Of course the dealer is going to tell you other people are looking at buying it. Thats sales tactic numero uno.

Don't be rushed. If Monday rolls around and you don't feel comfortable that its a good decision then wait. It may be there, it may not. But know this isn't the only WS6 out there within your price range. Hell for 12k you can get a newer one with around the same miles.

Go with your gut man. We aren't the ones making the payments! If it seems like a good deal to you, and everything inside and out looks good, then go for it. Just don't fall for the "You have to buy it within the next day" ordeal. Thats their way of putting urgency into the equation and getting 11k out of YOUR pocket. Do your homework and meet them in the middle.

Good luck and let us know what you end up doing!

bluestrat

iTrader: (7)

The only thing is, I've been searching craigslist, autotrader, here and ls1.com for 6 speed trans ams since July and this is the first one that wasn't at least 200 miles from phoenix. Plus the dealer is offering a 3 year powertrain warranty for $200 on top. I would Ideally like to widdle him down about a grand, do you think I'll be able to? I think 10k would be a good deal for both parties (with the stuff fixed, headlights, stereo?, reverse gear). I'd much rather have the car working right and pay a little more up front, but of course I want to get the best possible price. Should I low ball him at 9 and go from there? I just dont want to lose the car, trust me, I've waited over 4 months for a black M6 TA to show up anywhere near phoenix.

Incubus

Well given the situation and the fact that YOU think its a good deal, I would say if you can get him to repair all thats needed AND give you the 3 year warranty for his asking price, then go for it.

Typically when people go in with the mindset that you have (don't want to "lose" the car), 8/10 will end up paying what the dealer wants. Not what YOU want.

Just remember you have the upper hand...you're the buyer. If the guy is as reasonable as you say, you should walk away with a deal.

Rowin Gearz

iTrader: (3)

If you can get him to provide the powertrain warranty and repair the small items that you have mentioned at the $10K figure then jump on that deal.

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

ok, one thing i noticed right away is the WS6 badge on the back, but the wheels have ABS center caps... they should say WS6...

are they trying to sell it as a WS6...?

LT1PwrdZ

iTrader: (1)

Nice looking car man. Hope you get your hands on it

bluestrat

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, they are. I was wondering that, I also couldnt find the door plate to look for the WS6 code. There was nothing on the inside of the door. I'll ask them about that as they may have taken them off for some reason. I'll also ask them for the ASC number. If they can't provide it, I'll still try to buy the car but I'll get them to ding the price a ton.

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

were there any stickers on the inside of the driver door? maybe they were taken off the try and hide the fact that its not a real WS6...

bluestrat

iTrader: (7)

That would be Ideal for me. I don't care that it's a real WS6, I just like that it looks like one (minus wheels, which it will be getting better ones later anyways). This should be a major zinger in the sale. This actually is way to my benefit. I should be able to get it below 10 now. Anything else I should look for?

batman08

iTrader: (4)

do a carfax on it and be really careful about the trans 1st and reverse if they are hard to get into can mean broken rings or forks. When i first got my t/a it was my first manual and didnt know about the trans. reverse was easy to get into but 1st was real hard and required alot of force. I was too excited to really notice. But once i got it home i had probelms with it and had to have the transmission dropped and looked at. Turned out 1st gear was half way gone and the syncros were worn real bad. it was $1600 to replace 1st and put carbon rings and bronze steel forks in. I wish i would of known that and had the dealer pay for it. Thats my 2 cents be careful on the tranny.

batman08

iTrader: (4)

and check the ws6 things i know it was posted before but the wheels should be ws6 if it is a real one and ask about the door stickers if they are not there. and make sure it has both keyless entry's and keys. mine only came with one.

bluestrat

iTrader: (7)

Shouldn't a real WS6 have the raised airbox? I can't tell if this one is because I have nothing to compare it to. Here's an engine bay pic I took:

corum

ive been looking for almost 4 years, and havent found the right price!! every one i seen with around 40-55k miles is around 18. is that right? so me seeing this one for 11 is a suprise, but i generally dont look for anything older than 2000. i prefer 01-02. and the stickers missing from the door panels could mean panel replacement. thats another thing to look into. or like someone said hiding that it is not a ws6. arent the vin numbers different for a ws6 as well? not sure, but i thought they were. it looks nice though, good luck!!

bluestrat

iTrader: (7)

I have the VIN, is there a way I can decode that to indicate if it's really a WS6?

CAMAROZ28SS

iTrader: (5)

thats a nice car

CAMAROZ28SS

iTrader: (5)

that is a WS6, and yes it has the raised air box

bluestrat

iTrader: (7)

Ran a carfax, everything came up clean even emissions. It was a two owner vehicle that the first owner sold at ~40k miles. If that is indeed a real WS6 by the airbox, does that mean that perhaps the 98's came with the ABS wheels? I know they came with single tailpipes which made them different from the newer ones (this one has a catback)

EDIT: Just got off the phone with the dealer, and wow, I didn't know tax/title/lisence was that much. With the car at 10,500, the total would be $11,900 with all the issues fixed. The car is not a real WS6 aparrently, but damn it's a nice car. Plus the dealer would be able to service it. I'm going to talk about it with him for financing and see how I can make it work. Let me know what you guys think

raven_450

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=bluestrat;7941978]Well I went and test drove the car today. I loved it! Found out the car has a new aftermarket clutch, short shifter, hooker catback, custom sub box, and lid (says ls1 on it, don't know the brand). The guy let me take it out for a test drive, and I loved every minute of it. I got a lot of looks, and some dude in a red viper gts gave me a thumbs up. Let me know what you guys think of this and how I should go about getting the best deal.

The good:

-No bad engine noises
-All fluids looked good
-Had great oil pressure right on startup
-No rear end noise
-Exterior paint is in really good shape for a 90k mile car
-Sounds awesome!
-Window motors work good (passenger is a little slow, but works just fine).
-Tranny shifted real nice (except reverse, see below)
-very clean interior
-New tires

The bad:

-headlight motors go up just fine, but when they go down and theyre all the way down, it sounds like gears are grinding on each other. Is this an easy fix?
-Had a semi difficult time getting into reverse. The guy said the shifter linkage just needed to be adjusted
-stereo is kind of weak, It sounded like most of the sound was coming from the right side and not a lot from the left. Is this just how fbody stereos are? or is this one bad?

The dealer was a really nice guy, and it was a smaller dealership with a lot of performance cars on the lot. The guy says he usually goes for completely stock cars but the previous owner treated this car really well. He offered me a full powertrain warranty and the abillity to make one large down payment, and two smaller payments. I had him take the car off the lot for me, but he said that 2 other people called about the car in the past two days. He's gonna keep it put away until monday, which is when I said I'd know if I could buy. He also said he will fix any minor detail work before he lets me buy the car. He was a real stand up guy and not like any dealer I've encountered before (gone on test drives, dealers were very pushy). This guy never once pressured me into anything.



Headlights making noise going down means the gears are on there way out usually its the gears that go on these not the motors. Its not the most fun thing to repair just got done doing them on my car. That gives u a little bargaining room if it were me though id have him fix it before i bought it though. And the reverse thing is kinda iffy aswell id want that taken care of. Or have him bring the price down like have him pay the tax tags title fee. thats what i had the dealership do where i bought my car cause all 4 rims had bad curb rash on them when i bought it. Instead of replacing them they payed all those BS fees.

bluestrat

iTrader: (7)

I didn't realize all those fees get capped on the asking price. It was gonna be tight money wise for me to do this anyways but now I don't know if I can afford it. The problem is I havent seen an M6 trans am in phoenix since July for under $13k, let alone a black WS6 (clone). The dealer will only go 10.5k w/ tax, title, lisence 11.9k. He says hes got 3 people that want to check the car out. Depending on the financing options he has, I don't know what I'm gonna do. I don't want to regret not buying this car, but I don't want to stretch myself too thin financially.

T-56SLPSS

Alot of times when these cars are hard to put into reverse its hard for them to go into 1st as well. Most of the time this can be changed with a fluid change. Check the hydraulic fluid if its black your reverse problem can more than likely be fixed easily, and if you change the hydraulic fluid on it do the drill mod while you are at it. I got screwed on my car, the guy got 1000 over retail because i looked for 4 1/2 months and finally found the car i wanted and he knew what he had. Dont worry about what kbb says the car is worth. If you love the car it really doesn't matter how much it costs. Good luck