DoubleJ16

Thanks for the advice everyone. I appreciate it.

180ls1

iTrader: (4)

for performance you can do minor mods to the intake, full exhaust and a cam which will put you in the 450Hp range about 400 or slightly more to the wheels and that will cost you in the neighborhood of 2,500 to have it done right with a dyno tune. And if you put about 1,000 into the suspension it will handle very well. If you add heads which can get pricey toy can make about 450 to the wheels on a stock bottom end.

1999 Camaro SS, 232/234 cam (112 LSA) .598" lift, ported heads, Pacesetter LT's, ORY, Magnaflow catback, stock intake (for now), MTI lid, custom tune.

423 rwhp
400 rwtq

here is an example that probably cost a guy 3k to ave installed and done and everthing he will probably run low 12's with good tires

dailydriver

DO NOT get a stalled A4 IF you ever plan on open tracking/autocrossing/HPDE!! Even in a C5.
IF you only plan on street driving with the occasional straight line use then the stall setups are OK.
The M6 f body 10 bolts do not necessarily have to on your first launch on Nitto DRs. IF you are sane, and only do mild bolt ons (which will also NOT hurt your gas mileage as much) they can live fairly long lives. Mine has made it to over 100K miles, even with the 'weaker' 4.10s in there, and MANY Nitto DR track launches, albeit only resulting in a low 1.8 sec. 60'.
Now of course someone will come on and say, "Oh yeah, well my 3.42 geared M6 10 bolt grenaded on the street with crappy, hard compound, no traction all season tires on it". So yes, it IS somewhat of a 'crap shoot', but I'm just saying it does not "have to" happen like it is destiny.
Besides, like I said the 10 bolt is better IF you care about going left and right at all (lighter, more diff choices, less power loss, etc.).

The C5s (IF you can swing the insurance) will let you 'do it all'!!
There have been (and are) M6 C5s in the 10s on drag tire setups, that with just a wheel change can go and kick exotic *** on the road courses!!
Some of them are nothing short of amazing!

180ls1

iTrader: (4)

check this out
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/f...2dee6a82d7.htm

I8URSVT

iTrader: (2)

damn, those 350z's handle their own for the most part

COD02SS

Yeah too high. We bought our 02 SS with 50K miles on it for 11,500. GF works at the dealership so we got a killer deal. They had it advertised for 19999

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

have u considered dropping an LS2 into the 350z iv seen the swaps, and it makes the 350z 10x funner after that.

Benjamin Russick

iTrader: (1)

You can make the LS1 F-body handle great with a few simple mods. Springs, shocks/struts and swaybars will make a huge difference for under $1000. As already suggested, check out Strano. I have his tuned Bilsteins, Eibach springs and some BMR stuff on my Z28. Handles really nice and the ride-quality is still good...
I love how F-body prices are going UP. I tried to sell my 16K mile 383 Z28 last year for $16K and got low-balled to death... Maybe I'll try selling her again next year, or maybe I'll just keep her.

StoleIt

iTrader: (3)

Enlighten me...

How are you going to gain power and gas mileage with a C5 over an F-body?

I am curious...

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

I believe that he meant he'll pick up power and handling over an Fbody (power because of the difference in weight most likely) and handling well yeah, vettes are ummm pretty good in that category

SchultzLT1

iTrader: (5)

Just FYI with insurance...

It has more to do with your age and record than the car you drive. The insurance was like $100 a year less than my SS if I was in a pick-up.

I have no tickets, no accidents, etc..

02 Camaro SS

iTrader: (4)

Is he insane?

chemicalstylez

You'll notice the power difference instantly. I've walked every single 350Z i've raced on highway pulls with my WS6 and i'm basically stock. If your strapped on money, the 98-02 Z28 is the way to go. The best bargain LS1 car you'll find. WS6s are very pricey even with high miles. But sometimes you can find cheap low milage T/A's.

01WS6JACKLE

also in considering wich fbody to get is that all ta's will have leather seats and t tops, im not sure if all the ss's had leather or not, if some one knows chime in. ,the z28 were cloth some may have been leather, again im not sure. i paid 15k for my 01 ws6 m6 in jan of this year

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Leather was an option for Z28s, standard in Trans Ams.

DoubleJ16

That was a sick video.. Looks like it was out around here in my area, as well.

It's good to see some fast 350Z's but to be honest that's a ton of money to dump into the car to hang with an LS1 with bolt-ons and a cam. We're probably talking close to the $15-20,000 mark just in a mods.

I'll never have that much money to dump into a car or else I probably would stick with it.

DoubleJ16

Well I think I found a good one (after alot of searching)

It's about 3 miles away from my house, at a dealer.

it's an '02 SOM Z28, automatic, leather, 25,600 miles, $13,500 (asking price).. Excellent condition.. I think I might jump on this one.

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

Yeah you better get that one before someone else does. Good luck

DoubleJ16

Well, the advertising was a little misleading.. I went there and it said $16,900 on the window. They told me the price on the website was with $3,000 down.

So I test drove the car anyways just to see how it drove, handled, ect. It was really tight, the interior was spotless, engine sounded good, no mods at all, shifted good, ect.

One thing I noticed and couldn't believe is how much I had to hit the gas pedal to get the car going. I've never driven an LS1 car before, and I also haven't driven an automatic car is a long time, so this might be normal. Almost felt like the gas pedal was loose.

I got on it one time, it downshifted and took off nicely.. I wanted to keep going but the salesman was starting to look a little worried.

Went inside just to see what numbers would be, they tryed to rape me on my trade (not even close to KBB) so I walked out laughing. I guess they thought I was a complete moron who was going to pay over KBB for the Z28 and under KBB for my trade.

01ghostwhitez

iTrader: (3)

Hope you left your number and told them to give you a call when there ready to make a deal! I spent 4 hours negotiating my car and almost walked out multiple times before they came down to the price and payments i wanted!