Spiers

iTrader: (7)

No there is no reading. I grounded to the body of the starter. Wire off, wire on, key on, try to crank, never got any volts.

Btw I replaced the theft deterent relay and that didn't fix it.

lovin myls1

iTrader: (4)

Theft deterent relay gets volts from ignition switch via a yellow wire going to terminal C1.Can you unplug that wire fron relay and check volts to ground while cranking?From wire to ground.

Spiers

iTrader: (7)

Sorry it took me. Been busy with work, now off for the weekend. Okay I just went out and checked it. 11.48 V to the yellow wire while cranking.

lovin myls1

iTrader: (4)

Hey,no problem.Now pull purple wire off of relay and,while cranking, see if there is any volts at the terminal the purple wire was hooked to (should be
A2)? If you don't, then we need to know if volts are present at the wire connected to C2(to ground) and at terminal A1(to ground).This will tell us if we need to move to Theft Deterent Module.
If you want,I can PM you my cell # while you are doing this- it may be easier.

Spiers

iTrader: (7)

Do you get text messaging? PM me your cell, that would probably be easier. I am probably done messing with it for tonight until daylight comes back around tomorrow.

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

Same here, you gotta take it to the GM dealer to get the VATS system serviced thats all.

Spiers

iTrader: (7)

Turned out to be the neutral safety switch. $7 and 2 minutes. Thanks to the help of lovinmyls1. The security light on the dash must be a separate issue.

01CamaroV6

iTrader: (1)

If your security light comes on and stays on but you are still able to start the car, then your VATS system is in fail enable mode which means that at the time the light first came on, the vehicle was able to read your resistance value of your key. But while the ignition was on, it lost the ability to read the resistance of the key. While the light remains on solid, the car is still not able to read your key but since the problem first happened while the engine was running, it knows you are not stealing the car so it will enable the fuel pump and allow you to start the vehicle. The security light will continue to stay on solid until it sees the resistance of the key again.

Most times the two wires inside the steering column that go to the ignition cylinder will break at the cylinder from the stress of hundreds of times of rotating the cylinder to start the car. To test this, remove the driver's side knee bolster and find the small orange wire coming from the bottom of the steering column, this orange wire will have two small white wires in it. Unplug that wire at the connector and use a multimeter to measure ohms on the side that continues up the column (do this with your key in the ignition to see if you can read the key's resistance). If you can read the resistance of the key then you have a problem elsewhere in the system and will have to have it serviced. If you do not read the resistance, then those wires are broken at the cylinder.

You then have two options, you can either order a new cylinder and ignition keys and replace the entire assembly, or you can use your multimeter and measure the resistance of your key by putting one lead of your meter on each side of the pellet in the key. Once you have the resistance value, get a resistor or series a couple together to replicate that value and cut the orange wire under your dash and hook the resistor across the two white wires. Then start the vehicle and leave it run for about a minute and you should see the security light turn off.

Here's a good diagram for doing the bypass http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg