Spark plug broke and left threads in head!
Apparently I waited too long to change spark plugs, one of them cracked at the housing and blew out of the head. Ideas?
Last edited by Tuffguy610; Apr 20, 2012 at 09:54 AM. Reason: .
The m,etal is all one piece, almost impossible for that to happen....or so I thought.
9000thSS: I understand it seems easy, but are they are any tricks of the trade? I read stuff on here all the time, people say "do this and do that", I try it and something snags. I dont wanna take the head off my car to do this. Fortunately it happened on one of the easiest cylinders to access. If it happened on the rear passenger one, I'd be screwed. These are the original 80,000 mile spark plugs.
Do you have an easy out set?
If you don't, then I'd take a good spark plug out, beat all the ceramic out of it so it's just a metal shell, and take that to the tool store to find one the right size.
Are you sure the whole spark plug didn't shoot out?
I've seen them come loose and blow out, the whole thing.
I've only heard of one breaking off and it was on a ford 4.6 where the plug sits down in a deep well and moisture had rusted it.
You might double check with a mirror to see it, it is very odd that it broke off.
If it did break off I'd think the threaded part would be somewhat loose, if the taper broke off with it there would be nothing to run tight against. But thats just a guess. Good luck.
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Usually the plug is welded or crimped the hex at that point to capture & contain the porcelin. They break off right under the hex & leave the threaded barrel in the head.
I use a square extractor to get these out. Not a spiral one. They square one will bite it alot harder.
i use the freeze type pentrating oil & then put a little grease in the center of the barrel to capture possible debris from entering the cylinder.
Then tap it in there & remove it. May take quite a few trys hopefully it's not siezed in there.
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Usually the plug is welded or crimped the hex at that point to capture & contain the porcelin. They break off right under the hex & leave the threaded barrel in the head.
I use a square extractor to get these out. Not a spiral one. They square one will bite it alot harder.
i use the freeze type pentrating oil & then put a little grease in the center of the barrel to capture possible debris from entering the cylinder.
Then tap it in there & remove it. May take quite a few trys hopefully it's not siezed in there.
Freze type penetration oil??? Explain please..never heard of it..
Got a customers 2000 Silverado 4.8 here and the rear drivers side plug snapped off just as described above....
Nut snapped off and the ceramic and all came out, only the threads stayed in.
I got the EZ out in there but cant quite get enough leverage to get it out. Going to call it a night and try tomorrow. I thought that my problem might be that it would just strip but it seems to have bottomed out and I cant turn the bit anymore.
Soooo...whats that freeze type penetrating oil you are talking about? I WD-40d it for an hour before putting the bit in...
There are quite a few others out there but this one should be an easier one to find.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog



