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Remanned Alt. Giving Problems

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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 04:41 PM
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Angry Remanned Alt. Giving Problems

I put a remanufactured alternator in my car today. Everything was fine when I started it up after the install. I drove it for about 30 minutes afterwards until it started giving me problems. I didn't have a battery charger available so I had to let the car recharge the battery. I figured after about 30 minutes of driving, the battery was back to normal which the gauge showed. I went WOT and all of a sudden it dropped from around 14 volts down to about 11 and the check gauges light came on. I babied it the way home and the check gauges light eventually went off. But it still is at around 11-11.5 volts it looks like from the gauge. Could I have fried the alternator with that one punch? I also have a power steering leak but the alternator is pretty much dry on the outside. It's got a warranty so if I fucked it, it's no cost. I'm going to put the battery on the charger tonight but any help or diagnosis is appreciated.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 99T/A_Marine
I put a remanufactured alternator in my car today. Everything was fine when I started it up after the install. I drove it for about 30 minutes afterwards until it started giving me problems. I didn't have a battery charger available so I had to let the car recharge the battery. I figured after about 30 minutes of driving, the battery was back to normal which the gauge showed. I went WOT and all of a sudden it dropped from around 14 volts down to about 11 and the check gauges light came on. I babied it the way home and the check gauges light eventually went off. But it still is at around 11-11.5 volts it looks like from the gauge. Could I have fried the alternator with that one punch? I also have a power steering leak but the alternator is pretty much dry on the outside. It's got a warranty so if I fucked it, it's no cost. I'm going to put the battery on the charger tonight but any help or diagnosis is appreciated.
You should really do a full, deep cycle battery charge before going for a drive. The alternator does all the work while your car is running, a WOT run takes alot of power away from the alternator when its trying to charge a dead or low battery.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
You should really do a full, deep cycle battery charge before going for a drive. The alternator does all the work while your car is running, a WOT run takes alot of power away from the alternator when its trying to charge a dead or low battery.
Yea, I'm going to put it on the charger tonight and try things in the morning. If it's still fucked up, I guess I'll go get another. Thanks for the refferal to the pepboys alternator. Glad I don't have to pay **** for a replacement. Just have to give my time.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 06:32 PM
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Pepboys blows and i will never get anything from that store again. I have been through at least 6 alternators from that pos store and the dumbass employees always try to make it out to be my fault or something wrong with my vehicle when it isnt.

All of them were refurbs and this last one I spent more and got the "new" one, which isnt even that good
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Dimitri-
Pepboys blows and i will never get anything from that store again. I have been through at least 6 alternators from that pos store and the dumbass employees always try to make it out to be my fault or something wrong with my vehicle when it isnt.

All of them were refurbs and this last one I spent more and got the "new" one, which isnt even that good

Its a fact that some auto parts stores (pep, advanced, bennett, etc) have complete losers working in them, you need to find the stores in your area that actually have people who know their ****. There's a couple around here that have very experienced people working at them, others have complete losers.

The alternators everyone uses around here from PepBoys (Pro-Start remanned) have been nothing but GREAT for everyone I've talked to for the past 5-6 years. Never a problem with a single one. I know people who are going on 5 years with them and they're just fine.

You have to be your own parts guy and technician.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 99T/A_Marine
I also have a power steering leak but the alternator is pretty much dry on the outside.
You really need to get that fixed, just a few drops into the alternator will fry it.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
You really need to get that fixed, just a few drops into the alternator will fry it.
Yea, if the next one goes out, I'll start diagnosing the P/S system. Hopefully only a hose and not the whole pump. How much would a new power steering pump be if it needed replacing?
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 99T/A_Marine
Yea, if the next one goes out, I'll start diagnosing the P/S system. Hopefully only a hose and not the whole pump. How much would a new power steering pump be if it needed replacing?
remanned pumps without reservoir between $90-$120. www.rockauto.com No idea what a new pump from the dealer would cost. My factory original one is going on 11 years old, can you believe that.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
remanned pumps without reservoir between $90-$120. www.rockauto.com No idea what a new pump from the dealer would cost. My factory original one is going on 11 years old, can you believe that.
Found a remanned pump at advance w/o reservoir and lifetime limited warranty for $67 w/ $50 core charge. If it comes to replacing the pump I'll go with it. Hoping for just a fucked up hose. And 11 years is amazing.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 99T/A_Marine
Found a remanned pump at advance w/o reservoir and lifetime limited warranty for $67 w/ $50 core charge. If it comes to replacing the pump I'll go with it. Hoping for just a fucked up hose. And 11 years is amazing.
My alternator that took a **** last week was original too. Only thing I've had fail before the alternator was my A/C compressor a few years ago. And I've had a LPE 427 stroker beating the **** out of everything for 6 years.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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Too bad **** doesn't have a "NO ****, MADE TO LAST" guarantee. ******* greedy parts suppliers. Lol.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 08:31 PM
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I just walked out and felt around down near the exciter wire. I poked a finger around and pulled it back up and had power steering fluid on my finger from where the exciter wire was. Could this be the culprit? If it is then it's a definite that the power steering pump is leaking and is causing a short in the wire.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 99T/A_Marine
I just walked out and felt around down near the exciter wire. I poked a finger around and pulled it back up and had power steering fluid on my finger from where the exciter wire was. Could this be the culprit? If it is then it's a definite that the power steering pump is leaking and is causing a short in the wire.
No doubt. Get the PS leak fixed.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 10:48 PM
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yeah fix the leak asap.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 04:02 PM
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yeah i have killed about eight alts and its always when i got wot , almost like they cant take the rpm's or something. most of the time it will kill them dead , had one that would do like what you said it will still charge but not very.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by kw's01z28
yeah i have killed about eight alts and its always when i got wot , almost like they cant take the rpm's or something. most of the time it will kill them dead , had one that would do like what you said it will still charge but not very.
Thats wierd, an alternator shouldn't be affected by WOT runs. If they were, I'd have gone through 1,000 of them and I just took my original alternator off after almost 11 years of use. 6 years with my ~500 RWHP 427 stroker.

Something else is wrong with your electrical system.
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