Hard to find gears
Hard to find gears first off....we are speaking of a t56......Lately Ive noticed a trend that at wot shifts from 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 (racing situations) the gears are harder to engage. Not speaking of force of anything of that nature....just simply cant find the gear when I go to slide her in...i miss....rpms go dangerously high (I hit over 7k during a misshift today) and Im worried that eventually top end damage is going to occur from these misshifts.
Can someone point me in the right direction.....is it simply the clutch (75k miles) or is my tranny fubared (never been replaced, but has been driven hard) .... or could it be something completely unrelated.
Also, will I know instantly whether or not the internals of my heads have any damage whatsoever done to them from this overrevving (even if the damage is extremely minute)? Id like to know for sure that every is sound as far as pushrods etc....
Thanks.
Can someone point me in the right direction.....is it simply the clutch (75k miles) or is my tranny fubared (never been replaced, but has been driven hard) .... or could it be something completely unrelated.
Also, will I know instantly whether or not the internals of my heads have any damage whatsoever done to them from this overrevving (even if the damage is extremely minute)? Id like to know for sure that every is sound as far as pushrods etc....
Thanks.
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 437
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From: Indianapolis
It's sounds like you may have bent up a few of your forks while shifting hard. As far as possible damage to your valvetrain it may not show ASAP. Bent pushrods will click but you may have damaged a lifter and it may slowly start to colapse and your springs may have been hurt with valve float that may not show right away. I'd be taking it easy on that car for a while, since you don't have valvetrain noise now you may be safe. Of couse the safe thing to do is replace the valvetrain and have your tranny built but thats big $$. I'd take it easy and be wary for noise since I'm poor.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 437
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From: Indianapolis
Not really unless something is really messed up. You'd hear noise before you could pick up the slight differences with your fueling. There are just too many variables when your looking at a log of your tune (I tune with HP tuners btw). Your fuel trims will auto compensate for it anyhow and it'll still drive fine. Normally you will hear clicking coming from the valve train if it is pretty bad. If your pushrods arn't seriously bent you won't hear a thing and if the lifters are still holding up you won't hear a thing. You can survive with bent rods if they arn't too bad so if your not noticing it they may be ok. You may have got away with one and not hurt a thing as well. If it's a lower milage car I'd feel better. Just keep an ear for any noises from the heads. Pushrods and lifters will click like an exhaust leak, if a spring decides to go you'll know for sure.
Nice caddy btw
Nice caddy btw
waiting im not sure what you mean, can you elaborate?
and....
I do have a pretty loud ticking noise that I figured was an exhaust leak. How much should a performance shop charge me to check the situation out?
and....
I do have a pretty loud ticking noise that I figured was an exhaust leak. How much should a performance shop charge me to check the situation out?
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 437
Likes: 9
From: Indianapolis
He is refering to the restriction in the master cylinder line that goes to the slave having a restriction in it. I'm not sure if your caddy has that or not but you would know. If it does you would notice after you do some hard shifts the pedal is light, catches in a different area, or sticks to the floor.
As far as the cost it will depend on if it is the pushrods or the lifters or both. If it is the lifters it will not be pretty since the intake and heads have to come off. If it is just the pushrods you just need to pull off the head covers and rocker arms. The parts are relatively inexpenisve but the labor will kill you on that.
As far as the cost it will depend on if it is the pushrods or the lifters or both. If it is the lifters it will not be pretty since the intake and heads have to come off. If it is just the pushrods you just need to pull off the head covers and rocker arms. The parts are relatively inexpenisve but the labor will kill you on that.
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If the engine is ticking, then it is highly likely you hav bent a pushrod. Not really a big deal as they are pretty easy to change out, just take about 3-5 hours depending on what tools you have.
As for your shifting problem, this has to do with your master cylinder not being able to keep fluid going to the trans so not allowing the clutch to fully disengage. Only way to fix it is to either do the drill mod, or purchase a new adjustable master. I highly recommend you to check out Tick Performance as they have just came out with a new awesome master
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As for your shifting problem, this has to do with your master cylinder not being able to keep fluid going to the trans so not allowing the clutch to fully disengage. Only way to fix it is to either do the drill mod, or purchase a new adjustable master. I highly recommend you to check out Tick Performance as they have just came out with a new awesome master
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12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 354
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From: Springfield, Missouri
is everything easy to shift when not at WOT?
If you punch it lets say in 2nd is 3rd hard to get into?
If yes, If you punch it in 3rd is 4th hard to get into?
if yes to all 3 i would say that GM didn't fix the Hydro problems that plaged the F-bodys.
If you punch it lets say in 2nd is 3rd hard to get into?
If yes, If you punch it in 3rd is 4th hard to get into?
if yes to all 3 i would say that GM didn't fix the Hydro problems that plaged the F-bodys.
waiting, yes, on occasion.
Yes the sticking has happened before maybe once or twice, and I have noticed a slightly changing engage point.
and at the track the other night. near the 1320, my car's rpms went to redline in 3rd gear when I was only going 83 mph...normal shift point at redline in 3rd is about 91 mph....so I shifted into 4th...same thing.....rpms went to redline in 4th gear at about 94 mph...normal shift point at redline in 4th is like 140. So something there was seriously messed up. This was the only time this has happened. I was told it was my headers heating the slave masters fluid up causing it to bind???? Any truth to this pudding?
If it does you would notice after you do some hard shifts the pedal is light, catches in a different area, or sticks to the floor.
and at the track the other night. near the 1320, my car's rpms went to redline in 3rd gear when I was only going 83 mph...normal shift point at redline in 3rd is about 91 mph....so I shifted into 4th...same thing.....rpms went to redline in 4th gear at about 94 mph...normal shift point at redline in 4th is like 140. So something there was seriously messed up. This was the only time this has happened. I was told it was my headers heating the slave masters fluid up causing it to bind???? Any truth to this pudding?
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 437
Likes: 9
From: Indianapolis
It could be you need to do the drill mod or your clutch is shot. Normally you get heat from the transmission (since the slave is inside the housing) soaking into the line, the fluid will expand and due to the restriction in the line to the slave it causes issues engaging the clutch. What you describe though sounds like the clutch is slipping and needs to be replaced. Link for the drill mod is below. I'd try posting this in the manual transmission section.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ere-first.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ere-first.html