Wide Open throttle....nothing happends
Wide Open throttle....nothing happends So i have been trying to tell some people that my car sometimes at wide open throttle does not do anything. Everytime i have someone in the car it doesn't happen. From a roll if i punch the throttle nothing will happen, the car will sit at 1500 rpms and act like its on cruise control. when this happends i can repeatedly stomp on the gas and nothing happends, then after a few times punching it the car will downshift and go like normal. Im thinking my Tps sensor is bad but i dont know. Any help is greatly appreciated.
It is as if i am not hitting the throttle at all. It just sits at like 1500 rpm's. No dying, sputtering or anything like that. Then sometimes it just snaps out of it while im still on the gas and it goes.
Crank Shaft Position sensor can cause that.....no?
When mine failed years ago it did something similair, among about 4-5 other wierd things. I could be cruising on the highway, steadily at say 70mph. And it would just slow down by itslef as if I took my foot completely off the pedal, but my foot never moved, then bam, it would come back by itself a few seconds later.
It was a few days of that wierd ****, then I got a scan and found it. Never got an SES light.
Go get a scan.
When mine failed years ago it did something similair, among about 4-5 other wierd things. I could be cruising on the highway, steadily at say 70mph. And it would just slow down by itslef as if I took my foot completely off the pedal, but my foot never moved, then bam, it would come back by itself a few seconds later.
It was a few days of that wierd ****, then I got a scan and found it. Never got an SES light.
Go get a scan.
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I would think a bad TPS would show a lean condition on a scan. (Too much air going through the throttle body compared to the fuel that the PCM is delivering off of the TPS.)
If the problem is repeatable enough so you get the stall at idle, (when you aren't moving) the TPS is an easy thing to test. It acts as a variable resistor. Just measure the resistance across the terminals with a multi-tester and a good TPS will show a smooth change in resistance as you move the dial. (BTW - If you remove the TPS, be sure not to overtighten the screws; the sensor case will crack on you.)
If the problem is repeatable enough so you get the stall at idle, (when you aren't moving) the TPS is an easy thing to test. It acts as a variable resistor. Just measure the resistance across the terminals with a multi-tester and a good TPS will show a smooth change in resistance as you move the dial. (BTW - If you remove the TPS, be sure not to overtighten the screws; the sensor case will crack on you.)
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Verdad Gallardo Yeah im going to have to check that out. I mean its not all the time, it is just a once in a while thing. Other times when im at wot the car responds normally. The other day my buddy was in the car and i was repeatedly stomping on the gas pedal and nothing was happening, then it just seemed to snap out of it. Wierd.
I guess I should explain that chart. You need to go slower than 1200 rpm to come out of TM once you're in it. And you need to let off the gas to less than 5% TP to get out of it.
BTW I would be surprised if this was TM, but it sounds exactly like what my car would do before I deleted it.
BTW I would be surprised if this was TM, but it sounds exactly like what my car would do before I deleted it.
Hook up a scanner. It could be TPS because maf is used to calculate fuel and not your TPS but if it is getting stuck and not moving then it will hold constant. Does it do it at all speeds say if you were at 2500 and tried it or somethingl ike that.
If your crankshaft sensor is going bad. Your timing would be off so I doubt that. The LS1 uses the crankshaft as a reference point for coil fire so I highly doubt thats what it is. If you feel the car loosing power or low on it and the hear it knocking yes I would look at the sensor otherwise no. (It shouldn't knock due to knock control but it could.)
If your crankshaft sensor is going bad. Your timing would be off so I doubt that. The LS1 uses the crankshaft as a reference point for coil fire so I highly doubt thats what it is. If you feel the car loosing power or low on it and the hear it knocking yes I would look at the sensor otherwise no. (It shouldn't knock due to knock control but it could.)
