List of Grievances (Problems I don't Understand)
02-13-2009, 04:14 PM
#22
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Different speeds = variable miles added to the OD. The faster I went obivously, the more it was off. You can't use your equation in this factor, IMO. Correct me if I'm wrong though.
02-14-2009, 01:56 AM
#24
TECH Regular
My 2 cents:
Get your alignment first and see what it fixes. If you toe in or out angle it will feather and create drag while moving. Since you already bought them change out the rotors and pads, as said before use blanks no cross drilled madness.
FYI ALL headers are illegal period. If it changes the placement of the CATS it is illegal. "Race headers" are ones that simply don't have AIR injection provisions, but the headers are illegal anyhow so who gives about the AIR system. If your returning it to stock I understand but other then that it's useless to change out that stuff to make it legal.
Also if you are just looking to return to a stock tune you may want to look into a local person with HP Tuners or EFI Live and have them flash it back to stock. It shouldn't be a big deal all it is, is opening a stock file and flashing it to your PCM. Also it doesn't take a "professional" tuner to correct your speedo it is a simple one step change for your tuner.
Also others are INCORRECT when telling you the long tubes are making your car run rich, this is a semi-truth. When your car warms up the PCM had fuel trims that automatically adjust to the correct AF ratio, it DOES NOT stick running rich period at normal temps. Thats the whole purpose of the O2's, you get codes when they don't swich properly from lean to rich and back quickly enough, the only time this is not true is at WOT and cold idle when the O2's are not used. Our cars don't hold 14.7 AF ratio at all times like some think. A tune is normally used to add a little timing to add HP and correct the rather small fueling changes to the PCM at WOT and cold start. If the previous owner did away with AIR, O2's and other things he more then likely had a tune to delete the codes and somebody probably played with the tuning. Going back to stock (since you have so few mods) is a cheaper choice, and getting a tune done by a shop is a little better choice (more power, and the corrected WOT and idle fueling) but is way more expensive. A stock tune will be a little off but nothing near risking hurting the motor even at WOT you'll be off by a few hundreths on your AF ratio, the PCM in our cars are pretty robust and will adapt to small changes. I'm pretty sure the guy before you had a tune and probably more mods that required more fuel and demodded the car back to near stock and didn't retune it.
Your AIR system is not required to pass an emissions test by any means, it just kicks your CATS up to temp by adding air to the exhaust. Once up to temp the AIR system shuts down and is no longer used. The only way it would matter is if you went to the emissions place with a cold car. Passing emissions with longtube headers will be somewhat of a challenge but has been done with near stock cars like yours. Make sure you let the car idle up to normal temp THEN take it there to be tested.
Get your alignment first and see what it fixes. If you toe in or out angle it will feather and create drag while moving. Since you already bought them change out the rotors and pads, as said before use blanks no cross drilled madness.
FYI ALL headers are illegal period. If it changes the placement of the CATS it is illegal. "Race headers" are ones that simply don't have AIR injection provisions, but the headers are illegal anyhow so who gives about the AIR system. If your returning it to stock I understand but other then that it's useless to change out that stuff to make it legal.
Also if you are just looking to return to a stock tune you may want to look into a local person with HP Tuners or EFI Live and have them flash it back to stock. It shouldn't be a big deal all it is, is opening a stock file and flashing it to your PCM. Also it doesn't take a "professional" tuner to correct your speedo it is a simple one step change for your tuner.
Also others are INCORRECT when telling you the long tubes are making your car run rich, this is a semi-truth. When your car warms up the PCM had fuel trims that automatically adjust to the correct AF ratio, it DOES NOT stick running rich period at normal temps. Thats the whole purpose of the O2's, you get codes when they don't swich properly from lean to rich and back quickly enough, the only time this is not true is at WOT and cold idle when the O2's are not used. Our cars don't hold 14.7 AF ratio at all times like some think. A tune is normally used to add a little timing to add HP and correct the rather small fueling changes to the PCM at WOT and cold start. If the previous owner did away with AIR, O2's and other things he more then likely had a tune to delete the codes and somebody probably played with the tuning. Going back to stock (since you have so few mods) is a cheaper choice, and getting a tune done by a shop is a little better choice (more power, and the corrected WOT and idle fueling) but is way more expensive. A stock tune will be a little off but nothing near risking hurting the motor even at WOT you'll be off by a few hundreths on your AF ratio, the PCM in our cars are pretty robust and will adapt to small changes. I'm pretty sure the guy before you had a tune and probably more mods that required more fuel and demodded the car back to near stock and didn't retune it.
Your AIR system is not required to pass an emissions test by any means, it just kicks your CATS up to temp by adding air to the exhaust. Once up to temp the AIR system shuts down and is no longer used. The only way it would matter is if you went to the emissions place with a cold car. Passing emissions with longtube headers will be somewhat of a challenge but has been done with near stock cars like yours. Make sure you let the car idle up to normal temp THEN take it there to be tested.
02-14-2009, 07:24 PM
#25
My 2 cents:
Get your alignment first and see what it fixes. If you toe in or out angle it will feather and create drag while moving. Since you already bought them change out the rotors and pads, as said before use blanks no cross drilled madness.
FYI ALL headers are illegal period. If it changes the placement of the CATS it is illegal. "Race headers" are ones that simply don't have AIR injection provisions, but the headers are illegal anyhow so who gives about the AIR system. If your returning it to stock I understand but other then that it's useless to change out that stuff to make it legal.
Also if you are just looking to return to a stock tune you may want to look into a local person with HP Tuners or EFI Live and have them flash it back to stock. It shouldn't be a big deal all it is, is opening a stock file and flashing it to your PCM. Also it doesn't take a "professional" tuner to correct your speedo it is a simple one step change for your tuner.
Also others are INCORRECT when telling you the long tubes are making your car run rich, this is a semi-truth. When your car warms up the PCM had fuel trims that automatically adjust to the correct AF ratio, it DOES NOT stick running rich period at normal temps. Thats the whole purpose of the O2's, you get codes when they don't swich properly from lean to rich and back quickly enough, the only time this is not true is at WOT and cold idle when the O2's are not used. Our cars don't hold 14.7 AF ratio at all times like some think. A tune is normally used to add a little timing to add HP and correct the rather small fueling changes to the PCM at WOT and cold start. If the previous owner did away with AIR, O2's and other things he more then likely had a tune to delete the codes and somebody probably played with the tuning. Going back to stock (since you have so few mods) is a cheaper choice, and getting a tune done by a shop is a little better choice (more power, and the corrected WOT and idle fueling) but is way more expensive. A stock tune will be a little off but nothing near risking hurting the motor even at WOT you'll be off by a few hundreths on your AF ratio, the PCM in our cars are pretty robust and will adapt to small changes. I'm pretty sure the guy before you had a tune and probably more mods that required more fuel and demodded the car back to near stock and didn't retune it.
Your AIR system is not required to pass an emissions test by any means, it just kicks your CATS up to temp by adding air to the exhaust. Once up to temp the AIR system shuts down and is no longer used. The only way it would matter is if you went to the emissions place with a cold car. Passing emissions with longtube headers will be somewhat of a challenge but has been done with near stock cars like yours. Make sure you let the car idle up to normal temp THEN take it there to be tested.
Get your alignment first and see what it fixes. If you toe in or out angle it will feather and create drag while moving. Since you already bought them change out the rotors and pads, as said before use blanks no cross drilled madness.
FYI ALL headers are illegal period. If it changes the placement of the CATS it is illegal. "Race headers" are ones that simply don't have AIR injection provisions, but the headers are illegal anyhow so who gives about the AIR system. If your returning it to stock I understand but other then that it's useless to change out that stuff to make it legal.
Also if you are just looking to return to a stock tune you may want to look into a local person with HP Tuners or EFI Live and have them flash it back to stock. It shouldn't be a big deal all it is, is opening a stock file and flashing it to your PCM. Also it doesn't take a "professional" tuner to correct your speedo it is a simple one step change for your tuner.
Also others are INCORRECT when telling you the long tubes are making your car run rich, this is a semi-truth. When your car warms up the PCM had fuel trims that automatically adjust to the correct AF ratio, it DOES NOT stick running rich period at normal temps. Thats the whole purpose of the O2's, you get codes when they don't swich properly from lean to rich and back quickly enough, the only time this is not true is at WOT and cold idle when the O2's are not used. Our cars don't hold 14.7 AF ratio at all times like some think. A tune is normally used to add a little timing to add HP and correct the rather small fueling changes to the PCM at WOT and cold start. If the previous owner did away with AIR, O2's and other things he more then likely had a tune to delete the codes and somebody probably played with the tuning. Going back to stock (since you have so few mods) is a cheaper choice, and getting a tune done by a shop is a little better choice (more power, and the corrected WOT and idle fueling) but is way more expensive. A stock tune will be a little off but nothing near risking hurting the motor even at WOT you'll be off by a few hundreths on your AF ratio, the PCM in our cars are pretty robust and will adapt to small changes. I'm pretty sure the guy before you had a tune and probably more mods that required more fuel and demodded the car back to near stock and didn't retune it.
Your AIR system is not required to pass an emissions test by any means, it just kicks your CATS up to temp by adding air to the exhaust. Once up to temp the AIR system shuts down and is no longer used. The only way it would matter is if you went to the emissions place with a cold car. Passing emissions with longtube headers will be somewhat of a challenge but has been done with near stock cars like yours. Make sure you let the car idle up to normal temp THEN take it there to be tested.
before that i had to replace the o2 sensors, change the headers for the air pump, and add the air pump because the computer was throwing codes about them all. the original owner was a certified dumbass and i've spent a lot of money correcting all his little "ideas" that would never work in a million years. the tuning was, and still is stock, he never got it retuned for his few modifications, which is why it was throwing codes, the air system was never tuned out, it wasn't tuned to ignore o2 readings, etc.
anyway, an update. i've got the new pads and rotors installed and i discovered my front driver-side caliper had gone bad, so i replaced that but now i'm gonna have to repaint ALL of them back to yellow because one is grey and the rest are faded... annoying but better than screwed up braking.
my air lid also came and i got that hooked up properly to the air system, everything's running good for now. tuning and alignment are next, but i can't afford to do anymore for a few weeks.
02-14-2009, 08:15 PM
#26
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Lots of good LS1Tech help in this thread, that's what it's all about! 
Think about everything has been covered, but one thing I would suggest if you plan on having the vehicle a while is getting a lifetime alignment that will pay for itself in two visits. I'm done paying for realignments on my GM vehicles that have both had alignment problems even from the factory or at least in the first 20K miles. There is nothing like paying $250 plus per tire to notice they are wearing unevenly.
Think about everything has been covered, but one thing I would suggest if you plan on having the vehicle a while is getting a lifetime alignment that will pay for itself in two visits. I'm done paying for realignments on my GM vehicles that have both had alignment problems even from the factory or at least in the first 20K miles. There is nothing like paying $250 plus per tire to notice they are wearing unevenly.
02-15-2009, 06:39 PM
#30
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Credits are what you use to license a unique vin number when you're tuning. Vehicles typically take two credits at $50 each. Unless you have a license for a vehicle you cannot change any of the parameters in HP Tuners. You can look at it, but not modify.
Large tuning shops usually get an unlimited license for a year specific model. This costs six credits I think so they usually don't charge you for that but they get the money back from the tuning in the end.
Large tuning shops usually get an unlimited license for a year specific model. This costs six credits I think so they usually don't charge you for that but they get the money back from the tuning in the end.
02-15-2009, 07:02 PM
#31
TECH Senior Member
2. when i go over a bump or a pothole my car try's to turn in the direction it fell and i have to compensate. it would seem normal for any other car but my car and my old 98 trans am never did that before, the steering just seems less responsive and less tense than before.
Guys any kind of "squirlyness", "looseness", "floaty, disconnected feel", "choppy", "jarring", "snap-oversteer", "bouncy", "unsettled" is [assuming everything else stock is in fine working order] lack of shock dampening. The stock DeCarbon shocks on these cars aren't worth the ugly orange paint they put on them, and unfortunately cheapo replacement over the counter shocks aren't any better. As soon as the OP said he had his suspension replaced by pep boys, the first thing that came to my head was the crappy monroe shocks.
Unfortunately you can attribute most of your ride quality and handling issues to them. The slower steering is also a possible effect of the bad shock dampening, especially now that you have more unsprung weight (the bigger wheel/tires).
After replacing my not-so-worn-out "better (WS6) valved" Decarbons (40,000ish miles) with konis on otherwise stock suspension you wouldn't believe the difference. The ride quality improved ten fold (think creamy BMW like, firm but not jarring), the few interior rattles I had disappeared and the handling was unreal, I could push the car so hard on bump/shitty roads and it stuck like glue, and felt great doing so. Single best mod for these cars, period.
02-16-2009, 01:59 PM
#32
TECH Regular
Credits are what you use to license a unique vin number when you're tuning. Vehicles typically take two credits at $50 each. Unless you have a license for a vehicle you cannot change any of the parameters in HP Tuners. You can look at it, but not modify.
Large tuning shops usually get an unlimited license for a year specific model. This costs six credits I think so they usually don't charge you for that but they get the money back from the tuning in the end.
Large tuning shops usually get an unlimited license for a year specific model. This costs six credits I think so they usually don't charge you for that but they get the money back from the tuning in the end.
I'd just jump on a regional board and ask if someone can do it for you if they have an unlocked HP Tuners.
02-19-2009, 01:25 PM
#34
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Alignment Heads Up I wanted to give you a heads up about an alignment; most companies still have old alignment machines that stay within the recommended parameters(in the green) this is ok for every day cars with tires that are more cupped or rounded on the edges, but todays high performance tires are more square and even though your alignment will be in the green your tires will still feather. Most dealerships have newer alignment machines that can be adjusted to the degree for pinpoint accuracy. If you take it to a place like PEP Boys that has an older machine it make take a few visits before they get it right.
