need to fix AC, help please
need to fix AC, help please i have a leak i presume because my AC is completely out of freon. i want to buy a can of freon + UV leak detector stuff at autozone but i am confused about the nozzle to buy as well. does any nozzle/hose work with our cars? i am just not sure if the one they have in the store will fit our condensor?
after that i plan to get a black light to test where the freon is coming out. if i can't find anything, since the UV stuff is also mixed with freon, i'll just leave it in there and see how long it takes to run out again.
btw, how much freon should i put in my system, even to do the test? i think the can i was looking at was 12 oz or so. thanks.
after that i plan to get a black light to test where the freon is coming out. if i can't find anything, since the UV stuff is also mixed with freon, i'll just leave it in there and see how long it takes to run out again.
btw, how much freon should i put in my system, even to do the test? i think the can i was looking at was 12 oz or so. thanks.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 393
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i have a leak i presume because my AC is completely out of freon. i want to buy a can of freon + UV leak detector stuff at autozone but i am confused about the nozzle to buy as well. does any nozzle/hose work with our cars? i am just not sure if the one they have in the store will fit our condensor?
after that i plan to get a black light to test where the freon is coming out. if i can't find anything, since the UV stuff is also mixed with freon, i'll just leave it in there and see how long it takes to run out again.
btw, how much freon should i put in my system, even to do the test? i think the can i was looking at was 12 oz or so. thanks.
after that i plan to get a black light to test where the freon is coming out. if i can't find anything, since the UV stuff is also mixed with freon, i'll just leave it in there and see how long it takes to run out again.
btw, how much freon should i put in my system, even to do the test? i think the can i was looking at was 12 oz or so. thanks.
I have never used the DIY stuff found at the zone, but I would assume it will have a 134a connector that will lock right on. The only other type would be an R12 fitting. Just make sure it says R134a
24oz of R134a is full. You should get a gauge set, it makes life much easier.
If the system is truly empty you should vacuum it down and see if it holds for about 20 minutes. If holds then you probably don't have a leak. If it doesn't hold add enough 134a to get it up to 50 psi, and check for leaks. BTW my 2001 has the dye in it from the factory.
Last edited by Carter Hays; Feb 13, 2009 at 10:15 AM. Reason: more info
First off, let's get the terminology correct so that you don't confuse the guy at the parts store.
Freon was outlawed years ago and therefore not sold for automotive applications. R-134a is the refrigerant that is used now.
You can buy a recharge kit for the R-134a AC system...get the kind with a built-in gauge that gives you a pressure reading. The connectors for the R-134a are all the same, so you can't buy the wrong one.
The low pressure connection on the AC lines should be marked with a blue cap. If it's not, I think the low and high pressure connectors are different anyway, so you shouldn't be able to mix them up.
The amount of refrigerant you need to add is based on the system pressure, so follow the directions on the can. You'll definitely know if you put too much in because the compressor will cycle rapidly and you won't get any cold air. In that case, you will need to bleed the pressure off until it is in the right range...again read the directions.
Freon was outlawed years ago and therefore not sold for automotive applications. R-134a is the refrigerant that is used now.
You can buy a recharge kit for the R-134a AC system...get the kind with a built-in gauge that gives you a pressure reading. The connectors for the R-134a are all the same, so you can't buy the wrong one.
The low pressure connection on the AC lines should be marked with a blue cap. If it's not, I think the low and high pressure connectors are different anyway, so you shouldn't be able to mix them up.
The amount of refrigerant you need to add is based on the system pressure, so follow the directions on the can. You'll definitely know if you put too much in because the compressor will cycle rapidly and you won't get any cold air. In that case, you will need to bleed the pressure off until it is in the right range...again read the directions.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2004
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You can still buy R12. I have an ASE permit. The guy at the parts store will know if he says he needs some "freon" for a 2000 camaro that 134a is the stuff. I think the problem is there might be some DIY R12 stuff left on the shelf. Not cans of the stuff, but the tools to fix a leak etc...
thanks for the info guys. what i may just do is buy the stuff and put it in and see if it holds first. does the AC need to be on the entire 20 minutes to check and see if it holds?
You'll need to run it on Max A/C...the guys at my parts store are dumb. You need to lead them to the right part or you'll ask for a fuel filter take home a clutch for a 71 Nova (not really...you get the point).
Most common place you get leaks is the compressor failing. Take a few seconds and bend down and look/feel with youyr hand to see if there's "refrigerant" accumulated under your A/C compressor. If it is you don't have to waste your time with anything listed above, you need a new compressor or a rebuild.
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i bought some refrigerant yesterday. started to put in the system and it wouldn't get past 35psi, and as soon as i stopped pouring it into the system it would rapidly fall from 35. i looked under the car and sure enough, saw exactly where it was leaking out of the system. it looks like the pipe that comes off the compressor goes over the sway bar and got rubbed right at that connection and caused a hole. i curbed my car pretty bad last year. i think that may have caused something to bend and hence those two things are touching now and it rubbed a hole in the pipe.
question now is, can that curvy pipe/hose be replaced without having to get a new compressor, or is that part of the compressor? can you guys help me identify that part and what it is called? should i go to a dealership/autozone/junk yard for it? thanks.
i bought some refrigerant yesterday. started to put in the system and it wouldn't get past 35psi, and as soon as i stopped pouring it into the system it would rapidly fall from 35. i looked under the car and sure enough, saw exactly where it was leaking out of the system. it looks like the pipe that comes off the compressor goes over the sway bar and got rubbed right at that connection and caused a hole. i curbed my car pretty bad last year. i think that may have caused something to bend and hence those two things are touching now and it rubbed a hole in the pipe.
question now is, can that curvy pipe/hose be replaced without having to get a new compressor, or is that part of the compressor? can you guys help me identify that part and what it is called? should i go to a dealership/autozone/junk yard for it? thanks.
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Find a AC parts supplier in your area. Get the replacement hose, it will come with the rubber hose and the aluminum parts assembled.
Install the new hose.
Rent a vacuum pump from either the AC parts supplier or buy one, then pull a 30 minute vacuum. - See if the vacuum holds for a while (about 15-20 minutes).
If it does hold a vacuum, recharge the system. I believe our systems hold 1.5-2 cans even. I just can't remeber off hand. But there is a note under the hood that says what weight the system holds, then match it up with the can.
Only use refrigerant that has no additives(stop leaks and all that other ****).
If you do have a leak, you will have to try to find it.
Also since your system has been open for a very long time you really should get a new drier and a clean orifice tube. The desicant in the drier is gone to **** since it has been exposed to moisture from the puncture in the line, and who knows what kind of debris a re stuck in the orifice tube by now.
Install the new hose.
Rent a vacuum pump from either the AC parts supplier or buy one, then pull a 30 minute vacuum. - See if the vacuum holds for a while (about 15-20 minutes).
If it does hold a vacuum, recharge the system. I believe our systems hold 1.5-2 cans even. I just can't remeber off hand. But there is a note under the hood that says what weight the system holds, then match it up with the can.
Only use refrigerant that has no additives(stop leaks and all that other ****).
If you do have a leak, you will have to try to find it.
Also since your system has been open for a very long time you really should get a new drier and a clean orifice tube. The desicant in the drier is gone to **** since it has been exposed to moisture from the puncture in the line, and who knows what kind of debris a re stuck in the orifice tube by now.
The accumulator/drier is the big silver thing mounted on the passenger's side strut tower. It will come with a hose attached. It is not very expensive(under a 100 Bucks, never use a previously used one).
The orfice tube is located in the tube and fitting right on the inlet of the evap.
Here is a decent article on this.
I believe mine is also a bit clogged, so my AC does not blow as cold as it can.
The orfice tube is located in the tube and fitting right on the inlet of the evap.
Here is a decent article on this.
I believe mine is also a bit clogged, so my AC does not blow as cold as it can.
it doesn't seem like a lot of people vacuum their system if they find a leak and fix it. how necessary is this and what are the *likely* consequences of not doing it? it's just that you can't do it yourself unless you have a vacuum (i don't, who does) and most places charge quite a bit to do it. i don't see the point in vacuum my system after fixing a leak, when the leak fix may not actually fix the system at all. i'd rather know for certain (i.e. fill it up with refrigerant and see if that holds) before i pay the money to get the vacuum done.
also, will the compressor even come on if you turn the AC to the on position but there is no pressure in the AC lines?
also, will the compressor even come on if you turn the AC to the on position but there is no pressure in the AC lines?
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 286
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From: SW FLORIDA
Also why should you not use refrigerant with the oil and UV dye? what will it hurt?
EDIT: I filled the system and the compressor came back on so yeah there is probably a sitch that prevents it from coming on if there is no pressure.
I have another problem but I will make my own thread
/: hijack
Last edited by Raven97; Apr 3, 2009 at 07:07 PM.
