Engine Sensor Fuse Keeps Blowing
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,112
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From: rosemount,mn/windsor locks,ct
more importantly are th surfaces clean that the grounds are making contact with? i have had grounds that have been tight but the surfaces were corroded enought to cause a short at the ground wire eyelit,cleaned and retightend all grounds on that circuit-PROBLEM SOLVED.
Im having the same problem on my Moms 01 SS A4. They have put one of my spare MAF in as well as swapping o2 sensors and nothing has fixed it. Now they are going to bring it down to me to figure out. Im planning on checking the grounds behind the heads and pulling the sleeves off of the wires that run near exhaust.
Did you ever get this problem figured out?
Did you ever get this problem figured out?
Bump,
If the motor isnt runnign enough grounds, could this also cause the problem of the bad fuse? I think My motor only has one ground wire on it, although the trans is solid mounted
If the motor isnt runnign enough grounds, could this also cause the problem of the bad fuse? I think My motor only has one ground wire on it, although the trans is solid mounted
Lack of sufficient ground won't casuse a fuse to blow. Shorts to ground and overloads blow fuses. Ground is part of the electrical circuit in your vehicle. Ground is a current "PATH". If you don't have sufficient ground wierd, unpredictable things begin to happen. Some things will work while others won't. What ever circuit needs the most ground is going to grab all they can get and to hell with everyone elses needs. If there is enough ground for them to operate so be it. If not who cares. Good clean grounds are very important.
mine isnt blowing the fuse yet. lust reverse lockout, maf and o2 sensor problems. i have added additional grounds to the o2s, the pcm and the exhaust, still same issues. i am almost sure it is a harness issue. gonna check near shock tower tomorrow
So I replaced the 20A small fuse under the hood for "engine sensors" and cleared the code. Now Its using the tune instead of reverting to the VE tables and runs 10x better.
I have driven it for about 30 miles w/o the SES light coming back on so I hope that fixed it. if not, I will be tracing wires back.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Kenosha, Wisconsin
i also just took my car to a guy that builds cars for a living. he spent 4 or 5 hours looking over everything and couldnt figure it out. but now when i check my codes the 02's dont show up as bad, but the MAF and skipshift code does. since after i failed emissions they suspended my plates instead of giving me an extension i really needed to fix this. if i clear my codes and change the fuse then baby it to the emissions center, im hoping i can finally pass then. its been 2 weeks too long without my car 
O2s slow down as they age(insufficient activity/no switching fast enough from rich to lean and back)-eventually they have to be replaced.
MAFs get dirty-try cleaning before replacing
MAFs get dirty-try cleaning before replacing
I'm not sure if I posted in this thread. Mac mid length headers come to close to the starter power wire and arc current onto them. I had to wrap the power cable in electrical tape as it is an extremely exposed piece of wire from the factory
As suggested check the grounds and check your power wires
As suggested check the grounds and check your power wires
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh
Damn this thread is super old. I've been chasing down an idle surge, rolling high idle, missfiring/backfiring under 2k, and the cause for my o2, maf, tps, and reverse lockout codes. Different variety of the same codes every time I scan it. I just checked the engine fuse that I somehow never checked, and go figure it was blown.
Changed the fuse, it was idling better than usual, but still shitty. After letting it warm up I took it for a quick ride. Up hill it still wanted to bog under 2k, otherwise it seemed to be an improvement. I hit it on a straight and it seemed to rip twice as hard as usual, but that may be my imagination. Got back home, and the fuse was blown. I'm not sure what point it blew again. I checked it before I left with the key on, then with it idling.
So from what I've read, I guess the wiring chase is officially on
Changed the fuse, it was idling better than usual, but still shitty. After letting it warm up I took it for a quick ride. Up hill it still wanted to bog under 2k, otherwise it seemed to be an improvement. I hit it on a straight and it seemed to rip twice as hard as usual, but that may be my imagination. Got back home, and the fuse was blown. I'm not sure what point it blew again. I checked it before I left with the key on, then with it idling.
So from what I've read, I guess the wiring chase is officially on
