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LS6 transplant - no start

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Old 10-27-2003, 03:47 PM
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Default LS6 transplant - no start

'00 WS6 with an LS6 transplant, and it won't start. First try, a brief bucking of engine, then every try again, the engine cranks without event. I will be checking gas and spark soon. Any ideas to trouble shoot? I'm gonna go after fuel first. I also have the LS6 injectors. I figured starting was going to be a snap after the transplant. D'OH!

John 00 WS6 almost
Old 10-27-2003, 07:11 PM
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I'll assume you've swapped out the harnesses and everything else, too, correct? I think this is more than an issue of pulling one, dropping in another. Forgive me if I sound patronistic, I just don't know what you've done.
Old 10-27-2003, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jabroni
I'll assume you've swapped out the harnesses and everything else, too, correct? I think this is more than an issue of pulling one, dropping in another. Forgive me if I sound patronistic, I just don't know what you've done.
I'll take any info I can get. I understand only the PCM would need some tweaking. The F-Body harness should work fine. Today I checked fuses and all is well. Any tips on check fuel and spark? I'm on it tomorrow. Any possible harmess connections to double check for a no start? Also, I do not have the crank pulley and belts hooked up yet. Could I have messed with VATS?

-JS
Old 10-27-2003, 07:48 PM
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check your groundings, check EVERY harness connector remotely involved with the motor, check the install on your pcm(presuming you switched that out too). check your batteries, make sure your alternator is good, make sure your plugs are good(arc test), and then go to the fuel system. double check all the simple **** first, its usually the first thing thats overlooked. again like jabroni said not to be patronizing, just throwin out my thoughts.
Old 10-27-2003, 07:54 PM
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Check all your grounds. Back of driver's side head(2 bolts/3 grounds), braided ground strap at driver's side frame rail below fuse block(from alt.), braided strap at alt. harness to block, and big black ground cable from battery side to block.


Check all connections at coil packs/injectors...as well as the fuel pump/injector fuses...if all of the above is well pull a plug wire to see if you've got fire...then move to fuel delivery....almost HAS to run if all this checks out.

Good luck...
Old 10-27-2003, 08:00 PM
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Keep the ideas coming. I got the grounds on the drivers side. All fuses good. Got the braided straps. Got the big black grnd cable. I've check the connections atleast 3 times, but I'm good for another round. This was supposed to be the easy part. D'OH!

-JS
Old 10-27-2003, 08:02 PM
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did you do a crank relearn ?

Ryan.
Old 10-27-2003, 08:08 PM
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That's the stuff I'm looking for. What do I need to do? I was about to pull the crank cover to make sure all is well up front.

-JS
Old 10-28-2003, 07:37 AM
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Im thinking you need to check your fuel pressure. Make sure your injectors are getting power. If it is cranking then it is not the vats. and put your belt on. These aluminum motors get hot really fast and with out a belt no water pump. I dont know if the car would start without a belt.
Old 10-28-2003, 10:34 AM
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Thankx again for the ideas. The underdrive just came in, so it goes on tonight. I am leaning towards a "theft deterrent" problem. (no scan tool, yet). This will shut off the injectors after 1-2 seconds, like the sysmtoms I have. I will be "relearning" the PCM tonight and hope for the best.
Old 10-28-2003, 10:14 PM
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Is the "Security" light on when this is going on? I don't think the car will even crank if the security system is the culprit. Oh...someone said that already! Sorry. Check for the light, though.




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