May 20, 2016, 12:00 PM
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Jump start gone wrong
Jump start gone wrong Hey, recently I tried to jump my car using brand new cables only to find out that the wires were crossed from the factory. I did not notice until the wires started melting and saw smoke rising from the terminals.
Anyways, put the car on a tender and started it up. Now my ABS INOP, BRAKE, Service Vehicle lights are on, and they were not on prior to this. Did I fry something, if so what is it and how can i fix it? Car already has a misfire, but now upon coming to a stop the car will sometimes have problems holding idle and wants to idle very low (400ish).
What is very strange is I can be clutch out in neutral rolling at 5 mph, idling fine, put my foot on the brake come to a stop and BOOM it no longer wants to idle. BCM problem or what?
Help me out here guys.
Anyways, put the car on a tender and started it up. Now my ABS INOP, BRAKE, Service Vehicle lights are on, and they were not on prior to this. Did I fry something, if so what is it and how can i fix it? Car already has a misfire, but now upon coming to a stop the car will sometimes have problems holding idle and wants to idle very low (400ish).
What is very strange is I can be clutch out in neutral rolling at 5 mph, idling fine, put my foot on the brake come to a stop and BOOM it no longer wants to idle. BCM problem or what?
Help me out here guys.
crossing the jumper cables between your battery/vehicle and another battery/vehicle only short circuits between those two batteries along the jumper cables if you connected from battery post to battery post for both + and -.
If you connected the negative cable to the engine block or chassis like they say you should, then you most likely fried the engine ground straps and cables going from your battery neg. to the engine or wherever you connected your jumper cable to. So check/replace all the wiring and ground straps, that is what's causing your brake inop problems. the sensors aren't getting good electrical ground through the chassis, but you will not have hurt the sensors or any electronics.
If you connected jumper cables from battery post to battery post then that wouldn't hurt anything else other than the two batteries and the jumper cables, but then again the battery might have blown up in your face.
I would have thought you'd notice the problem as soon as you made the last jumper cable connection and saw a massive arc, although at that point it probably welded the jumper cable to whatever in which case you were fucked anyway.
If you connected the negative cable to the engine block or chassis like they say you should, then you most likely fried the engine ground straps and cables going from your battery neg. to the engine or wherever you connected your jumper cable to. So check/replace all the wiring and ground straps, that is what's causing your brake inop problems. the sensors aren't getting good electrical ground through the chassis, but you will not have hurt the sensors or any electronics.
If you connected jumper cables from battery post to battery post then that wouldn't hurt anything else other than the two batteries and the jumper cables, but then again the battery might have blown up in your face.
I would have thought you'd notice the problem as soon as you made the last jumper cable connection and saw a massive arc, although at that point it probably welded the jumper cable to whatever in which case you were fucked anyway.
Last edited by 1 FMF; May 3, 2009 at 08:38 PM.
I connected battery posts to battery posts, I did not ground the jumper to anything other than the battery. I have not yet checked the fuses but I did think about that earlier. I will check the fuses tomorrow morning, specifically the abs fuse. I hope that is the problem. More replies would be nice, any ideas will that can help diagnose this problem are greatly appreciated.
One thing that could happen is low voltage trouble codes. Due to what happened if these codes were set they might not immediately clear out.
Check the fuses and see if the lights go out after a couple of key ons.
Check the fuses and see if the lights go out after a couple of key ons.
Checked the fuses today, and lo and behold my ABS IGN fuse was blown. Replaced it, and BAM no more lights! Im happy right now, also the car no longer dies when coming to a stop, although I am still battling a misfire which I hope to be a faulty injector on cyl 7.
Sooo, damage done with a bad jump start - one 10a fuse and a blown pioneer CD deck. Everything with the deck works, but it seems as if I fried the CD part of the actual deck. Will not play CD's or spit out the one that is in it. Sooo I replaced that with my other pioneer, and i am back to square one now.
Now if I could just get this damn misfire figured out I would be golden.
Sooo, damage done with a bad jump start - one 10a fuse and a blown pioneer CD deck. Everything with the deck works, but it seems as if I fried the CD part of the actual deck. Will not play CD's or spit out the one that is in it. Sooo I replaced that with my other pioneer, and i am back to square one now.
Now if I could just get this damn misfire figured out I would be golden.
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Checked the fuses today, and lo and behold my ABS IGN fuse was blown. Replaced it, and BAM no more lights! Im happy right now, also the car no longer dies when coming to a stop, although I am still battling a misfire which I hope to be a faulty injector on cyl 7.
Sooo, damage done with a bad jump start - one 10a fuse and a blown pioneer CD deck. Everything with the deck works, but it seems as if I fried the CD part of the actual deck. Will not play CD's or spit out the one that is in it. Sooo I replaced that with my other pioneer, and i am back to square one now.
Now if I could just get this damn misfire figured out I would be golden.
Sooo, damage done with a bad jump start - one 10a fuse and a blown pioneer CD deck. Everything with the deck works, but it seems as if I fried the CD part of the actual deck. Will not play CD's or spit out the one that is in it. Sooo I replaced that with my other pioneer, and i am back to square one now.
Now if I could just get this damn misfire figured out I would be golden.
Cylinder 7 misfire, I swapped the coils of Cyl 1 and Cylinder 7 to see if the misfire moved, but it stayed put at 7.
Have already done plugs and wires, also cleaned my MAF
Have already done plugs and wires, also cleaned my MAF
That is what I am hoping on, just a little iffy about swapping the injectors around as I have yet to find a right up for it. I hate diving into stuff like this blind. Have you ever done it or know of a guide that will just give me the general idea?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2008
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You have to relieve pressure in the fuel system first. I'm not too sure how to do that in these cars, but a Hayne's manual will tell you. Then you disconnect the battery.
Disconnect the electrical control on the injector. The injector itself should then come out of the IM with nothing more than a little tug upward. You're probably gonna need a fuel disconnect tool to detach it from the fuel rail - makes it a lot easier. After that, you just put the new injector in the rail, plug it in, and push it into the IM.
Disconnect the electrical control on the injector. The injector itself should then come out of the IM with nothing more than a little tug upward. You're probably gonna need a fuel disconnect tool to detach it from the fuel rail - makes it a lot easier. After that, you just put the new injector in the rail, plug it in, and push it into the IM.
