mmorellicamaross

Does anybody know were I can order the red alternator wire that attaches to the alternator?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-A...Q5fAccessories

But you can just resplice them and they work fine.

1986irocz28

iTrader: (5)

x2......

mmorellicamaross

has anybody followed the red wire all the way to the computer? does anyone have any photos of this. I believe it goes up and around the fuel rails and to the computer. Has anybody ever have any problems with that wire besides right above the alernator?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I've only heard of problem where it breaks near the plug that attaches to the alternator.

Why.....do you think yours is messed up somewhere else?

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

I've broken every OEM one each time... Especially when they're like ten years old they break like spaghetti, usually by the pigtail connector... It doesn't help that it's taut with no slack OEM.

I always resplice them with a new connector and plenty of slack so that they can't break next time I remove the alternator.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Yup, thats what I did when mine broke, put about 8 inches extra slack in there for next time.

mmorellicamaross

I'm not sure if it is damaged somewere else, my power steering pump was leaking power steering fluid onto the alternator and onto that pigtail so it may have been damaged. I changed the alternator 2 and had the voltage checked on the battery and I am not getting recharged by the alternator. This was a new pigtail because I just put a new forged short block in and just had the car tunned. So could the power steering fluid caused the pigtail to go bad and is there a way to test that wire with a meter? and if there is does anyone know what terminal it is.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Yes, PS fluid is a killer. I would try to spray the **** out of that plug and wire with Sea Foam Deep Creep or WD-40....to try and break-up/clean all the PS fluid out of it. If that doesn't work, just splie a new piece of wire with a new plug, like the one from ebay.

To test it you'll have to start the engine, because I believe the signal is sent to the alternator AFTER the engine is started, not when the key is just turned forward to "on".

MasterV8

iTrader: (7)

I noticed later after breaking mine, that if you pull all 4 connectors, intake,TB & there's another further back you can actually get a couple more inches slack.
The red wire seems to go into the same harness, might not seem much, but everylittle helps.

buddha845

iTrader: (3)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-A...Q5fAccessories

do any chain part stores carry this connector? part #? figures nobody in napa or pep boys has any idea what im talking about

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

I broke one on a friends car and it sucked cuz we needed the car running that night. I ended up going to the junk yard. I found that a lot of gm cars use that same alternator connector I believe i got his off a sunfire and just spliced it in.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Did you take a picture of the connector (or the connector itself) to NAPA? The NAPA by my house has a book filled with parts to make those weatherproof connectors, they just need to know what fittings to include.

70hemicuda

iTrader: (33)

bwahhahaha. mine broke too. i thought i was the only one. just respliced it

camaro1275

stupid connector.. mines broke 2.. pain in the *** if u ask me .. that stupid connector is what sends the info to the alternator to charge correct? .. mines busted and i needed this car runnin tonight.. (track night)

7th Darkness

iTrader: (15)

Part Number 494 at the zone

*98TransAm*

are you talking about breaking the connector or did the wire come out of the connector?

camaro1275

the wire tore right at the connection

*98TransAm*

oh man just re splice the wire, the same thing happened to me when i did my motor mounts, and the dealer wanted like 40 bucks LOL hell no.. i should have made a write up on how i did it, its pretty easy to do. ill do some quick ms paint hold on...

*98TransAm*

LOL