vr4rhoads

iTrader: (1)

Yeah i was reading it right thats what i was think it was 42 degree's we compared the tune it had with a stock tune and it had 99 differences.

BSmiff

Way to go being uneducated. One more serious reason to run that much timing would be running race gas. Or trying to extract just that much more hp out of a stock motor.

SpinsB

iTrader: (5)

is seafoming or any top end cleaner a bad idea for a none stock motor or stroked motor?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

It works on any motor.

My 427ci LOVED when I cleaned it out after 118,000 miles. Totally changed the way it accelerates and idles.

Just know if you use Sea Foam you will only be cleaning 3-4 cylinders at the most....and almost NONE of the intake and really none of the valves and runners in the heads.

Mopar...........................

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Sea Foam is great for alot of things....but its horrible for top end cleaning. Liquid simply doesn't do a complete job, not even close.

Gotta have FOAM.

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SpinsB

iTrader: (5)

what about my 427ci that has around 4-5000 miles but is using alot of oil and Ive had the intake off and it was caked with oil along with the heads. Would it be ok to use to clean things up? This winter getting new valve stems and a catch can system. Just looking to clean things up while summer is still here.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

You need to search for a rpoblem with the engine...if you're burning excessive oil with only 4500 miles on it, there's a problem. If the runners in your heads are caked with oil I would think you have bad valve seals in your heads. The other really bad possibility is that you could have gas washed your rings at break in..IF it was tuned a little rich, and that would require a rebuild.

Sure, the Mopar stuff would clean alot of that **** out of there bigtime. But there's something wrong.

When you cruise at a steady 50 mph, then nail the pedal to the floor, do you leave a trail of smoke for just a couple seconds, then it clears up as you continue to accelerate?

Or maybe do you leave a constant trail while accelerating the whole time?


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SpinsB

iTrader: (5)

Last summer I had a commpression test done and all #'s came back good. So I have been lead to beleive that the valve seals and maybe valve guides are bad. I would have to look next time to see what I leave behind when I get on it. I know it leaves a trail of smoke just not sure if it stops and keeps going. Got white smoke for a min on cold start but goes away. I have plans to pull the heads here in a month or two and send them out to have them looked at.

Z Fury

iTrader: (1)

So the Mopar **** works - any results from the GM version?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

A little bit on start up is normal. Forged pistons expand as the engine warms up for a couple minutes making them and the rings tighter against the cylinder walls. Cast pistons don't expand as much and are always tight when cold or hot.

I was told by a very reputable builder, perhaps the best, that its very bad to just pull out and start driving immediately after start-up, especially with a forged set of pistons. Because they actually are not yet tight in the cylinder and actually move around. Obviously they move a tiny tiny amount, but enough that you'll wear them prematurely if you don't let them warm up for a couple minutes. One of the reasons the C6 Z06 427ci has cast pistons...so it can pass cold start emmissions easier.


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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Mopar stuff is crazy good. Never tried the GM stuff. If its not a FOAM like Mopar, that expands, it can't work as good. The key to it all is the expanding foam.


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bballr4567

iTrader: (5)

Dealership here was sold out of it yesterday. They might get another shipment in tomorrow though.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I didn't do the GM version but did go with a MotorVac treatment. http://www.motorvac.com/specs/CarbonClean_MCS245.pdf (The MotorVac uses a liquid, a foamer, and special equipment that re-circulates the solution through the fuel system with the engine off and then injects it back in with the engine on. I liked it better than the GM-recommended system/tools at the time, which do not re-circulate or de-varnish the fuel rails.)

With the MotorVac treatment, I measured a 2.5-3 mpg gain highway/city and have much faster engine starts.

Z Fury

iTrader: (1)

Gotcha. I wasn't aware that GM was a non-foaming liquid. That would make the Mopar stuff the winner of this round. Thanks for the info.

That looks pretty intense. What are the costs for this setup?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Several thousand dollars, I believe. Snap-On re-sells the stuff and also markets it under its own brand.

I had the service done at a garage, which had the machine, and it cost me around $100. Its more expensive than a do-it-yourself treatment, but I was in-and-out in less than an hour, was hands-off, and didn't have any lingering effects after leaving the garage. (All the cleaners were worked out of the system.)

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

Wow, mopar helping out for once.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I don't know if the GM stuff is a foam, I;m just saying if it's not a foam, it won't work that well.


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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Pretty cool system. What did they charge you for the process?

Did they let the foam sit for 45 minutes to soak into the grime and break it up? Or do they just run it through the idling engine?

Also, how does it clean the fuel lines from the gas tank to the rails? Do they remove the fuel injectors to clean them? I'm wondering how they run fuel cleaner through the fuel injectors without filling up the cylinders with fluid after the cleaner runs through them to clean them?

I like to keep my entire fuel system clean with an entire can of Sea Foam into 1/4 - 1/2 tank of gas every 3-4 months. It cleans everything from the fuel pump to the injectors and all lines inbetween.


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wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Different shops will charge different amounts for the service, but I paid around $100-$125. I forget the actual process, but it takes around 1 hr. and there are times where they let the chemicals sit in the fuel rails and soak.

If I recall correctly, they put the cleaners in to the machine and then hook it up to the fuel rails. It then sucks gas from your gas tank in to the machine, (you can see the tank opening on the front) which it uses to dilute/mix the chemicals. That mix is then circulated around the rails and then used for the burn phase (with the engine on) where its sent through the injectors and to the cylinders. (Its supposed to clean the injectors in place through that last phase.) It does not clean anything from the tank to the rails.

Here's the company's instruction video, which shows additional details and the full proceedure (get out the popcorn! - its 26 min. long): http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...motorvac&hl=en

Hawk777th

Can you just pull off your maf and spray it in TB? Or how do you duct it in most cars wont run with out the maf connected. Is it safe to spray through maf? Just bought some and wonderd whats the best way to spray it in. I saw someone pull off that bottom tube on the intake manifold do u just pull and it comes off?