New PCV experiment......
I am so close to going down this route. I am sick as hell of my car being an oil sucking pig.
It's got 28k miles on it and goes through a quart in less than 1k miles. As you mentioned, all that oil does nothing good for my wideband either.
I have the revextreme catch can, which doesn't catch ****. I am also running the oil cap breather. It's awful no one can come up with a functioning pcv system, that does not suck oil.
Sounds like you're on the right path though
It's got 28k miles on it and goes through a quart in less than 1k miles. As you mentioned, all that oil does nothing good for my wideband either.
I have the revextreme catch can, which doesn't catch ****. I am also running the oil cap breather. It's awful no one can come up with a functioning pcv system, that does not suck oil.
Sounds like you're on the right path though
Done deal.
Plus, I have fresh air constantly being sucked in from my drivers side valve cover breather and valley cover breather, I can feel the suction with my finger on them at idle. No more going into the intake because I reduced the suction flow by half.
Get rid of the catch can, they're a waste of money.
All that is needed is a "reduced amount of suction" AND an "easier way for air to enter the crankcase" (via the breathers).
Its cheap, it takes 20 minutes...........do it. I was thinking of maybe buying a shitload of parts needed and selling them as easy bolt-on kits. It would literally take 5 minutes to install this way once you receive it. You have to get the flow reduction correct in the PCV line, thats the key. I found the best pieces to use but I want to try one more this weekend.
Just beware of some assclowns who NEVER do any experimenting, but will tell you it doesn't work because they are know-it-alls.
.
Last edited by LS6427; Aug 21, 2009 at 03:42 PM.
Its all listed in detail on page one. First post.
Only thing not listed is the little pieces I put in the hose to slow the flow of suction down. You could always just take a clamp, put it on the 3/8" hose BEFORE the PCV valve and tighten it gradually till you get the flow you want. You can loosen or tighten the clamp and try varying flow levels that way to fit your engines needs.
I think the flow needed will differ from engine to engine anyway, so the clamp on the hose would be the best method to adjust flow.
.
Only thing not listed is the little pieces I put in the hose to slow the flow of suction down. You could always just take a clamp, put it on the 3/8" hose BEFORE the PCV valve and tighten it gradually till you get the flow you want. You can loosen or tighten the clamp and try varying flow levels that way to fit your engines needs.
I think the flow needed will differ from engine to engine anyway, so the clamp on the hose would be the best method to adjust flow.
.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, OK
Or you could plumb in a small needle valve if you wanted more control. It would probably make for a cleaner install as well.
What I am doing now is in the picture below.
Simply.....Breather on the drivers side valve cover. Breather at the port on my valley cover. And the PCV is sucking crankcase gases from the passenger valve cover port.
So.....my two fresh air intakes are the drivers valve cover and the valley cover port.
If you don't have a valley cover port, just hook the PCV up like mine on the passenger valve port to suck from....and just put one breather on the driver side valve cover. One way for air to get in and one way out.
But you MUST decrease the flow of the suction.
----With no valley cover port---If you put an oil fill cap breather on, you will only suck air in through that breather cap because the suction is only inches from it, and you won't suck any air in from all the way over by the drivers side valve cover. The crankcase won't get any air flow through it.---
.
Well this is something I am going to have to try. I have a brand new Rev Extreme catch can on my brand new motor. Routed the system EXACTLY as Aaron (405HPZ06) showed me. Got the car tuned popped the TB tube off today and the floor of the intake has oil on it. The catch can is as dry as the sahara desert. I had the FAST intake apart and it was spotless clean when I reinstalled onto my LS2. I was gonna try and put a breather in the cap and eliminate one of the 2 possible oil entrances into the intake but thats probably a waste of time. This is very annoying in a high performance engine as oil in any form contaminates the intake charge and reduces octane.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Well this is something I am going to have to try. I have a brand new Rev Extreme catch can on my brand new motor. Routed the system EXACTLY as Aaron (405HPZ06) showed me. Got the car tuned popped the TB tube off today and the floor of the intake has oil on it. The catch can is as dry as the sahara desert. I had the FAST intake apart and it was spotless clean when I reinstalled onto my LS2. I was gonna try and put a breather in the cap and eliminate one of the 2 possible oil entrances into the intake but thats probably a waste of time. This is very annoying in a high performance engine as oil in any form contaminates the intake charge and reduces octane.
The crankcase doesn't need to have such a high level of suction, 1/4 of the strength is all thats needed.
I've been a bit busy the last couple weeks, but I'm still going to completely close off both intake vaccum ports and hook up a small constant flowing air pump...to blow air into the crankcase and let it vent out of the two valve cover vent ports. I think.....this will allow the mist of oil that flys around in the crankcase to touch more of the inside of the engine, up through the oil passages leading to the springs and rockers, contacing them and flowing back into the bottom end with the oil flow.....and just that slight push of air will escape out both valve cover ports. ....Sucking from the valley cover port is a joke and directly sucks that very thick mist of oil thats floating around in the crankcase. Pushing air into the valley cover port is the better method. But the air flow has to be reduced down to just a small enough amount to move air through the engine.
When I drove around for 4 weeks with both intake vaccum ports completely capped off...zero oil entering my intake....everything got better about the engine. Richness, better gas mileage, smoother running, better cold start, and no more oil burning. Its a no brainer.
.
So would your 2 fresh air intakes points result in unmonitored air entering the engine since your bypassing the MAF ? And I have two ports on my Passenger side valve cover. Front and back....which did you run you PVC line to ?
I'm sucking fresh air in from the drivers side valve cover port and the valley cover port. The suction is pulling crankcase air in from being attached to the passengers side valve cover port. Then it attaches to the lower vacuum port on the intake. My top vacuum port on the TB is capped off, that thing is useless.
But...the suction my vacuum port produces has been cut down to about 1/4 strength. No need to suck more air in than that. I just want crankcase gases to be pulled out somewhat.
Works great for my engine.
.
You guys know that there is a pcv valve to fix this, right? My pickup had the same problem until i installed the "orifaced" pcv which has no valve in it. 224K on my ticker and i burn about a qt. every 5k. Any GM dealer should have it.
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
From: GARDEN GROVE, CA
I along with a lot others have tried this pcv and it makes no difference for most. Glade it worked for you though. You can get one from Autozone, pc339.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Tampa
And you've got before and after oil analysis to say this is not affecting the oil?
I think before I'd try what you've done I would go the path of the water/oil separator that cost $5.99
My ls1 engine has 115k miles on it. I change my oil every ~5k miles and during that time I add no oil between changes and I get no black soot on the bumper.
I think before I'd try what you've done I would go the path of the water/oil separator that cost $5.99
My ls1 engine has 115k miles on it. I change my oil every ~5k miles and during that time I add no oil between changes and I get no black soot on the bumper.
And you've got before and after oil analysis to say this is not affecting the oil?
I think before I'd try what you've done I would go the path of the water/oil separator that cost $5.99
My ls1 engine has 115k miles on it. I change my oil every ~5k miles and during that time I add no oil between changes and I get no black soot on the bumper.
I think before I'd try what you've done I would go the path of the water/oil separator that cost $5.99
My ls1 engine has 115k miles on it. I change my oil every ~5k miles and during that time I add no oil between changes and I get no black soot on the bumper.
I'm gonna double that......I'm doing something right.
And man-oman...nobody really reads threads anymore to understand them fully. The soot on my bumper is from running rich, which was a direct result of my PCV system letting massive amounts of oil in there. The soot build up HAS 100% STOPPED....((for the 100th time))). Because I fixed the PCV problem.
.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Tampa
I'll agree you probably did fix the soot issue, oil burning issue, running rich etc. You will probably never have ANY oil related issues from the PVC system on the engine BUT without scientific tests (such as oil analysis) there is no way to accurately say you are not causing a negative affect.
I'll agree you probably did fix the soot issue, oil burning issue, running rich etc. You will probably never have ANY oil related issues from the PVC system on the engine BUT without scientific tests (such as oil analysis) there is no way to accurately say you are not causing a negative affect.
.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Tampa
Oil analysis is a cheap and simple method to determine inner engine issues. How about you put down a few dollars to back your method instead of a redneck /the dipstick oil looks okay/ method especially when you make a comment like you're going to go sell your setup.
For a high performance application this method seems pretty solid to me. Stock motor as LS6427 has stated multiple,many,dozens,hundreds of times is a different story..... I'm in this same boat making north of 575 crank HP with my LS2. I am tired of oil sitting in the intake of my new motor and my catch can being bone dry. I am capping the PCV of completely and installing a breather in each valvecover. Just about everyone I am friends with in the car circle that is running a high HP drag race V8 has no vaccume source on the crankcase. Until somebody comes with a better method it's getting vented to atmosphere.
Look, you're not an engineer and probably have no more background then a home tinkerer. This is one of those threads people read that they just go and do it cause it sounds great! Yeah, just like threads telling people to add acetone to their gas because the MPG will be so great or threads telling people to cut out the bottom of the air box to get a !FRA mod (oops forgot to mention you may hydro lock some day).
Oil analysis is a cheap and simple method to determine inner engine issues. How about you put down a few dollars to back your method instead of a redneck /the dipstick oil looks okay/ method especially when you make a comment like you're going to go sell your setup.
Oil analysis is a cheap and simple method to determine inner engine issues. How about you put down a few dollars to back your method instead of a redneck /the dipstick oil looks okay/ method especially when you make a comment like you're going to go sell your setup.
Also, when I totally capped off my intake, zero oil entering and just had my crankcase vented......all I heard from a few idiots was that my crankcase was going to fill with water FAST. Idiots were wrong...not a single drop in 4 weeks. Oil was absolutely normal when I drained it, just like it has been for 11+ years of changing my own oil. 7+ years with my 427ci.
So what now...I have to hear you telling me to get the oil anaylized. So when it comes back ok...what are you and others going to say next. Take my engine apart and have everything visually inspected to make sure everything is ok.
Its never gonna stop with some of you. You don't have to do any of this stuff...I'm reporting whats working perfectly.
And I never said.."the dipstick looks ok" and thats all. Many things improved all at the same time. The oil being clean as usual was just one of them. If people can't understand that oil entering an "AIR" intake is just about the most moronic design ever by an automobile engineer, their stupid too.
There's a better way to do it.
.