would WOT brake my A/C
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,813
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From: Orlando Florida
would WOT brake my A/C I have been through two new A/c unit in a month and it seems like they go out after I have a night of a few street races. What I mean, is I have like 3 or 4 Wide Open Throttle runs a few nights ago against a friend of mine and then my A/c did not want to work and it was a week old. Then I got a new one put in and 2 weeks went by no problem and the on Friday night I race my friends bike and then no A/c again. All I have to say is thank god for warranties. But what's up, is it mandatory to shut it off if your going to open her up or is something else effecting the Air Conditioning, I'm in Florida so even well into September you can cook an egg on the hood.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Tulsa, OK
Not positive on your car, but others I'm familiar with will disengage the compressor clutch automatically at WOT, so you might check that.
If it's not doing that, I can see your problem happening. Incidentally, you're giving up 20 - 25 HP by running with it engaged.
If it's not doing that, I can see your problem happening. Incidentally, you're giving up 20 - 25 HP by running with it engaged.
Compressor cutout RPM is something you can set in the tune.
Some have a stupid-low re-engage RPM (like 0) which would
make the A/C quit until next key-on cycle. But dead like dead,
is something else.
You should look for immature codes, and try using a scan tool
to force A/C compressor clutch engagement, check pressures
etc. so you know for sure you're not throwing hardware at a soft
problem. All best done on your driveway, where nobody profits
by selling you stuff you don't need just because it makes the
diagnostics "done".
Some have a stupid-low re-engage RPM (like 0) which would
make the A/C quit until next key-on cycle. But dead like dead,
is something else.
You should look for immature codes, and try using a scan tool
to force A/C compressor clutch engagement, check pressures
etc. so you know for sure you're not throwing hardware at a soft
problem. All best done on your driveway, where nobody profits
by selling you stuff you don't need just because it makes the
diagnostics "done".
do you have the stock tune in the vehicle?
Some cars, ie the 98's had a problem with the first release calibration did not shut off the AC compressor at WOT, but the newer updated calibrations do. Might be something to check out. (if you want me to look at your tune, let me know)
Ryan
Some cars, ie the 98's had a problem with the first release calibration did not shut off the AC compressor at WOT, but the newer updated calibrations do. Might be something to check out. (if you want me to look at your tune, let me know)
Ryan
When I do a hard accleration with my A/C "on" it will start to blow warm automatically when I get to about 80% throttle. As soon as I come off the throttle it comes right back on. But I try my best to remember to shut the A/C "off" before any hard runs, just in case the PCM doesn't turn it off automatically.
If I'm cruising on the highway with my A/C "on" and I just get into the thorttle pretty hard just to pass someone or just to haul ***, but NOT going WOT, it will shut off too. Then immediately come back on when I relieve that pedal input.
Its simply a compressor safety mechanism in the PCM. So yeah...going WOT will probably kill a compressor if that mechanism is not working.
Stop racing with the A/C "on".
.
If I'm cruising on the highway with my A/C "on" and I just get into the thorttle pretty hard just to pass someone or just to haul ***, but NOT going WOT, it will shut off too. Then immediately come back on when I relieve that pedal input.
Its simply a compressor safety mechanism in the PCM. So yeah...going WOT will probably kill a compressor if that mechanism is not working.
Stop racing with the A/C "on".
.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,813
Likes: 3
From: Orlando Florida
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You should ask your tuner (if you do not have the ability)
to look at these A/C control settings and verify that (a)
it does get told to cut out at some reasonably low RPM
and (b) the re-engage RPM is also greater than idle RPM
+ hysteresis.
There's plenty of variation in stock tunes, let alone what
somebody might go make up. You really ought to do the
scanning though, to narrow it down to fault or intention.
to look at these A/C control settings and verify that (a)
it does get told to cut out at some reasonably low RPM
and (b) the re-engage RPM is also greater than idle RPM
+ hysteresis.
There's plenty of variation in stock tunes, let alone what
somebody might go make up. You really ought to do the
scanning though, to narrow it down to fault or intention.
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Yes running high RPMs will burn up your AC. Plain and simple. I'm talking even 3K on a regular basis with the compressor engaged will burn it up prematurely. If you're gonna get on it much at all turn the AC off first.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,012
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From: Tulsa, OK
I don't think there is any issue when the AC is off, the damage occurs when the compressor is engaged. I believe the AC on LT1 cars is set to disengage at only 2,500 RPMs. So I use that as a rule of thumb for my LS1 car. If I think I'm gonna get on it I shut the AC off. I'm not an expert on this stuff, but my friend definitely is who told me this info recently after I had AC issues.
Last edited by Sunset01SS; Aug 25, 2009 at 09:18 AM.
