My car wont start!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Garden Grove, CA
Okay cool, LS1.com wouldn't work so I came here for help.
So I drove my car to school this morning and it started and ran just fine. I left class to go home and got into my car. I turned the key and my stereo turned on and I rolled down my windows. I then went to start my car, but nothing happened. The gauges went down as they usually do when the car starts, but that's it. I could hear no sounds from the engine at all. The check guages light was on so I looked and saw that I was at 11 amps or so, just barely in the dotted red area on the gauge. I called my brother to come give me a jump start, but even that didn't start the car. So we swapped out the starter relays and that did nothing either. Allthough I did notice that there is a slight electrical noise when I turn the key to start it. I called a tow truck to come flat bed my car home, and when I went to roll my windows up, only the left side goes up. I pushed both switches down to see if the left went down, and the driver window switch make a weird buzz noise when I let go of it, kinda of like when you play the operation board game and touch a side. So now I have a car sitting outside my house that wont start with a window stuck down. Anyone have any idea what the hell is going on???
So I drove my car to school this morning and it started and ran just fine. I left class to go home and got into my car. I turned the key and my stereo turned on and I rolled down my windows. I then went to start my car, but nothing happened. The gauges went down as they usually do when the car starts, but that's it. I could hear no sounds from the engine at all. The check guages light was on so I looked and saw that I was at 11 amps or so, just barely in the dotted red area on the gauge. I called my brother to come give me a jump start, but even that didn't start the car. So we swapped out the starter relays and that did nothing either. Allthough I did notice that there is a slight electrical noise when I turn the key to start it. I called a tow truck to come flat bed my car home, and when I went to roll my windows up, only the left side goes up. I pushed both switches down to see if the left went down, and the driver window switch make a weird buzz noise when I let go of it, kinda of like when you play the operation board game and touch a side. So now I have a car sitting outside my house that wont start with a window stuck down. Anyone have any idea what the hell is going on???
make sure the connections on your battery and starter are tight. are you getting a 'security light'? also, clean the resistor pellet on your key as the resistor might be dirty and causing a malfunction with the VATS unit.
if you get a security light, i believe you have to wait 10 min before you can try to start it up again unless you reset the pcm
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sounds like a dead battery to me, or a bad connection somewhere. I'm going to go with a dead battery because the windows moved and everything else worked fine until you tried to start it. Sounds like it was low on juice and worn out at the same time. Get the battery tested.
my vats took a dump on me last month, very easy fix but you lose the security feature the vats provides. what probably happened is one of the wires going from your ignition tumbler to the vats computer has broken, usually around the tilt in the steering column. frequently tilting the steering wheel weakens the wires at this point causing them to break. you have to know the resistance of your key chip, just use an ohm meter to find this. go to radio shack and find the resistance capacitor that matches your key (i think you have a 10% margin for error here) you may have to solder a couple together to get it right. then go under your dash around the steering column and look for a black electrical connector with 4 wires, 2 in and 2 out. i think for my car it had orange wires going in and purple coming out but i could very well be wrong. find a way to permanently fix the resistance capacitor to the side going AWAY from the steering wheel. this fools the vats computer into thinking the key is in. from my experience there is no 10 minute wait after the vats has disabled the car, i know this because it takes a few tries to get the capacitor set in the terminals just right and the only way to check it is to try and start the car, so don't worry about that. ive had my vats bypassed for about a month and no issues at all. hope this helps
