Losing voltage when going WOT
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TECH Resident
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From: East Brunswick, NJ
Losing voltage when going WOT Whenever i go wot with the car, the volt gauge drops to the yellow and everything dims. after i let off and the rpms drop the voltage returns to normal? Is this a problem with the exciter wire?
Also, do our cars come with some sort of splash guard for the alt? cause everytime im under my car it seems like there used to be something there but was ripped off.
Also, do our cars come with some sort of splash guard for the alt? cause everytime im under my car it seems like there used to be something there but was ripped off.
Whenever i go wot with the car, the volt gauge drops to the yellow and everything dims. after i let off and the rpms drop the voltage returns to normal? Is this a problem with the exciter wire?
Also, do our cars come with some sort of splash guard for the alt? cause everytime im under my car it seems like there used to be something there but was ripped off.
Also, do our cars come with some sort of splash guard for the alt? cause everytime im under my car it seems like there used to be something there but was ripped off.
Check the belt for tension, they stretch over time. Only way to stop a belt from stretching and make it last for 10 years is to get a fixed belt tensioner like the Katech. My belt is like 7 years old and still tight as *****. These cheesy *** GM factory tensioners that bounce all the time, wears the belts out in a year.
Could be the voltage regulator in the alternator too.
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Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (21)
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From: East Brunswick, NJ
i have the katech adjustible tensioner so belt tension should be fine since i got the belt ( goodyear gatorback) and tensioner at the same time. The alternator is also new so i doubt its the alternator. the exciter wire looks like its a bit beat up so im thinking that's the problem. How hard is it to rewire and where does it run anyway?
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i have the katech adjustible tensioner so belt tension should be fine since i got the belt ( goodyear gatorback) and tensioner at the same time. The alternator is also new so i doubt its the alternator. the exciter wire looks like its a bit beat up so im thinking that's the problem. How hard is it to rewire and where does it run anyway?
$10.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-A...Q5fAccessories
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 51
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From: wisconsin
i had the same problem turned out the wire was broke in the plastic con. that plugs on to the altenator. I took the plug apart and put a new end on it. Let me tell you it was a pain to find out what was going on with the altenator but that fixed it.
I had a problem like this on my S-10. Did you replace the alternator? I had replaced mine like 4 months earlier and come to find out the windings on the inside were shorting out. I replaced the alternator with a warrantied one and i have not had another problem.
I'm assuming you're not getting an SES light because you didn't mention it......but if a spark plug wire or boot is touching a manifold exhaust pipe it could really suck power at high rpms, usually it doesn't do much at low rpms.
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had the same issue. come to find out the wire that runs from the battery to the fuse block was corroded from the inside out. replaced it and the alternator and it fixed the issue. been through 4 alternators in less than 10k miles before i figured it out. if the excitor wire is jacked up than the car will just run off the battery until it dies.
What kind of alternator?
Stock crank pulley?
Check BOTH battery cables, all grounds, and cables to junction box. Bet the resistance increases as the motor spins and gets hot, alternator gets unhappy, and turns off.
Shitty cables can cause what you are seeing. COULD be PCM but that would be rare.
Stock crank pulley?
Check BOTH battery cables, all grounds, and cables to junction box. Bet the resistance increases as the motor spins and gets hot, alternator gets unhappy, and turns off.
Shitty cables can cause what you are seeing. COULD be PCM but that would be rare.
