Replacing Rack and Pinion..
#1
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Replacing Rack and Pinion..
Alright guys, need a little help here.. How hard is it to replace the Rack and Pinion on an f-body? This is a 1999 V6 3.8L. I realize this is not a LS1, but I’ve seen both and they look identical. When I refill the resevoir it automaticcally leaks out of the center of the rack and pinion. Any info would help, including tips and tricks to make it go a little smoother. Thanks in advance!
#3
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It is really simple. You need a couple of general wrenches and a few sockets and a rachet. Use a wrench to disconnect the high pressure line and the return line at the rack. I would suggest a line wrench so you don't round the head off. Then take loose the two tie rod end nuts, normally 19mm. remove tie rod end from steering knuckles. Then under the K member there are two long bolt that go up threw the K member, and I want to say there are nuts on top of them. Remove the long bolts and nuts and the rack slides out torwards the fron of the car. That is about it.
reverse the process. REPLACE THE O RING ON THE POWER STEERING LINES. Then bleed the rack by connecting everything back up and turn the wheel lock to lock about 20x, make sure the level does not go empty int he resivor.
Hope that helps.
reverse the process. REPLACE THE O RING ON THE POWER STEERING LINES. Then bleed the rack by connecting everything back up and turn the wheel lock to lock about 20x, make sure the level does not go empty int he resivor.
Hope that helps.
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It is really simple. You need a couple of general wrenches and a few sockets and a rachet. Use a wrench to disconnect the high pressure line and the return line at the rack. I would suggest a line wrench so you don't round the head off. Then take loose the two tie rod end nuts, normally 19mm. remove tie rod end from steering knuckles. Then under the K member there are two long bolt that go up threw the K member, and I want to say there are nuts on top of them. Remove the long bolts and nuts and the rack slides out torwards the fron of the car. That is about it.
reverse the process. REPLACE THE O RING ON THE POWER STEERING LINES. Then bleed the rack by connecting everything back up and turn the wheel lock to lock about 20x, make sure the level does not go empty int he resivor.
Hope that helps.
reverse the process. REPLACE THE O RING ON THE POWER STEERING LINES. Then bleed the rack by connecting everything back up and turn the wheel lock to lock about 20x, make sure the level does not go empty int he resivor.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by 99-6er; 10-07-2009 at 12:04 PM.
#5
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You will have to get a alignment know matter what the toe will be off. Unless you are really really good. Grease should go in the tie rod boots. Just take your car back and say it is pulling. They will set ylour toe and let it go. LOL I did not say that it was my evil twin.
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You will have to get a alignment know matter what the toe will be off. Unless you are really really good. Grease should go in the tie rod boots. Just take your car back and say it is pulling. They will set ylour toe and let it go. LOL I did not say that it was my evil twin.
And I like your thinking about the alignment. LOL
#7
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You pump the grease into the fitting with a grease gun which can be had at most any auto parts store for between $10 and $30 depending on which 1 you get. You may as well just buy 1 since you have grease fittings on your tierod ends now.
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#9
Awesome, im guessing i need to mark the outter tie rods so the allignment doesnt get screwed up? Just wanna make sure im covering everything, dont wanna be screwed out another 150$ for an alignment. Also, on the new tie rod ends, theres a little grease fitting that came with it? do I need to take this some where to get it pumped with grease? sorry.... noob here.