Lower ball joint won't seat fully.
#1
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Lower ball joint won't seat fully.
I decided to change my ball joints last weekend. I got the old one out and the new one partially in with the c-clamp press I got from Advanced. I bought Moog's ball joints and I couldn't get it in all the way. There was roughly 1/4 of an inch sticking out of the a-arm. Also it was fairly easy to get in until it wouldn't go anymore. I got it most of the way in with an 8lb sledge after I pulled it back out to check the hole.
So I buttoned it up and drove it like that to a shop to just have them press it the rest of the way. They couldn't get it any further than I did, which helped my pride but my car isn't any closer to being 100% drivable. Luckily I still have my old Maxima to drive...but I would rather not.
Any ideas short of replacing the whole arm? I've found one on E-bay for about 50 bucks. At the dealer they are $348 per. I can get the tubular ones, but I don't really want to spend $400 on something that is only going to make my car handle marginally better when I don't even have SFC's yet.
Appreciate any input.
So I buttoned it up and drove it like that to a shop to just have them press it the rest of the way. They couldn't get it any further than I did, which helped my pride but my car isn't any closer to being 100% drivable. Luckily I still have my old Maxima to drive...but I would rather not.
Any ideas short of replacing the whole arm? I've found one on E-bay for about 50 bucks. At the dealer they are $348 per. I can get the tubular ones, but I don't really want to spend $400 on something that is only going to make my car handle marginally better when I don't even have SFC's yet.
Appreciate any input.
#2
Kleeborp the Moderator™
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Maybe try pressing it back out and try a different brand?
FWIW, when I was looking for lower ball joints, I had read that the Moogs sometimes were a little too big for the hole - granted, that's just internet hearsay, but it was enough for me to go with AFCO lower ball joints. So far I've only pressed in the passenger's side (I'm working on painting the driver's side arm before I press the new joint in), and it went in all the way with the c-clamp ball joint press.
I'd be curious to know the diameter of the new ball joint vs. the diameter of the A-arm itself...that might answer the question right there.
FWIW, when I was looking for lower ball joints, I had read that the Moogs sometimes were a little too big for the hole - granted, that's just internet hearsay, but it was enough for me to go with AFCO lower ball joints. So far I've only pressed in the passenger's side (I'm working on painting the driver's side arm before I press the new joint in), and it went in all the way with the c-clamp ball joint press.
I'd be curious to know the diameter of the new ball joint vs. the diameter of the A-arm itself...that might answer the question right there.
#3
TECH Fanatic
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^ It's true. Moog press-in ball joints are oversized to compensate for stretched control arm holes. They fit best after the ball joints have been changed a couple of times.
If your control arms are in good shape, It's a bitch to get Moog ball joints pressed in.
Other manufacturers also go oversize, but not as big as Moog.
If your control arms are in good shape, It's a bitch to get Moog ball joints pressed in.
Other manufacturers also go oversize, but not as big as Moog.
#4
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I know he used a ball joint press like I did, he just had the drill attachment or whatever they use. Maybe the Chevy dealership near me could press them in. I just hope that the holes aren't too small for the Moogs and after trying the Moogs, too big for the stock ones.
Thanks for the input so far!
#6
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2 problems here:
1. You're using the Moog Problem Creator joints.
2. You're using the ball joint press incorrectly. The end of the press should be hit hard with a mallet (24oz minimum) to help seat the ball joint when done, or when the joint seizes during the procedure.
1. You're using the Moog Problem Creator joints.
2. You're using the ball joint press incorrectly. The end of the press should be hit hard with a mallet (24oz minimum) to help seat the ball joint when done, or when the joint seizes during the procedure.
And whether or not I used it incorrectly shouldn't be much of an issue since I took it to a reputable mechanic in order to fix and he still couldn't. Not to mention I was using a floor jack and jack stands and there is no way I could have gotten the car high enough to hit the end of the clamp because it was so close to the ground.
But either way, probably going to try another ball joint and if it works, go get my money back for the Moogs.
#7
I always use some oil on the opening and ball joint so they slide together easier. I suggest you use a mic or caliper and measure the old ball joint dia and check the new ball joint before you try to install it.