91RS383

My pleasure.

I hope you bought from the link above. That was a great price.

Rychen

iTrader: (6)

no, I just came rechecked this post and seen it too late, auction ended
but I sent them a message asking if they had anymore in stock, so we'll see.

ws6manny

iTrader: (9)

Depending where your located, its cheaper to go into the dodge dealership and purchase it. That item has shipping on it use the calculator they provide. I picked up two cans today at the local dodge for $5.80 a piece. Not a bad deal at all.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I've never paid for MCCC, my friend just brings them home for me anytime I ask from the Dodge dealership he works at. He's got a few in his car all the time too.

But ebay is sometimes the only option for some people who can't get it at their dealerships because they are always backordered.


.

91RS383

Don't forget to check Chrysler and Jeep dealerships.

ws6manny

iTrader: (9)

Best advice if buying from dealer is to call ahead and have them available for you at will call. Works great everytime and you can make sure they are available.

Y2KFirehawk

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the great thread! I definitely would feel better about doing this than Seafoam...

tdevil55

iTrader: (23)

Here is my 02 Camaro after a mopar cleaning. Kinda dark at first, but you can see the smoke session.... and yes, "the red light is on,"

http://s268.photobucket.com/albums/j...t=MOV01518.flv

Schmalgar

Nice info here. Of course, I didn't see this until AFTER I seafoamed the cylinders using the brake booster line. Oh well, live and learn. If I think further cleaning is needed, I will use this method...

In fact, I might go ahead and do this as a learning experiment. If I get another carbon discharge cloud, then I'll know he's right about the seafoam in the brake booster line only going to the rear cylinders and not cleaning the rest... yeah, I'm definitely curious, I just might go ahead and do this too. What's another 6 bucks in the name of science?

D3VIL

Ok i'm planning on doing this procedure besides the seafoam to my car soon but I have some Noob questions since Im absolutely new to this and nervous b/c i dont wanna **** anything that isn't fucked up haha

Top Engine Cleaning:

1. Run till operating temp

2. Attach a emissions hose to the PCV line

3. Spray the MCCC into the PCV port while car is running on idle

4. Run around shut the engine off(lets say i dont have a 2nd person lol)

5. Let the vehicle to soak up for 2-3 hrs

6. Then do the driving procedures on steps 7-10

Is that all correct? Just making sure I got the procedure correctly

On to my noob questions:

1. *refers to step 2* When I remove the PCV tube that is attached to the intake, what will it do or sound like(if any)? Suction? or what?

2. *refers to step 3* "Allow the vehicle to load up with the cleaner to the point of almost stalling out." So there is a good chance that the car will stall? If it does then what? Should I leave it turned off since i've finished the can already? And if it stalled before i finished the can, should i go back and start it and finish the can then go shut it off again???

3. *refers to step 4* Before I run around to shut the engine off(assuming i don't have a 2nd person), should i plug the PCV tube back that I detached on step 1? Or should I just leave it uncovered?

4. *refers to when im spraying the can* Will I feel/hear the car start to get weaker and start wanting to stall?

5. *about the emissions hose* 2feet is enough you think? Is it supposed to be a specific width on the tip to fit the nipple of the PCV port? dont want it to be too loose or not big enough.

6. *comparing it to the SeaFoam* When does the smoke show exactly kick in? at which procedure?

7. *comparing it to the SeaFoam* On the SeaFoam thread, it was emphasized many times to not run on the oil that has seafoam in it. This IS NOT referring to TOP ENGINE CLEANING correct? Its referring to Engine Flush, right?

Sorry for all the noob questions, I just wanna be sure what i'm doing is correct since i've never done it before and have heard great things about seafoaming. Imma take you word on that this is better than SeaFoaming

Thanks ahead

ripgtp97

iTrader: (2)

Alright so, can anybody provide a picture of exactly what spot this hose is in? or where i should be spraying?
2. Remove the air tube from the throttle body. On an LS engine remove the PCV tube that attaches to the intake just after the throttle body. Add a short piece of emissions hose to the nipple to make things easier.

Also, I thought i heard somewhere that spark plugs should be changed after doing this? thoughts?

TakeaShift

was planning on trying this, called ahead & dealership didn't have it .. on order.

If anybody else has trouble finding it, ask the Parts Dept. to add 'AC' to the end of the part number ... he said the original P/N was discontinued, & the new was updated with that suffix.

to be continued ...

Notmyvette

iTrader: (1)

Ive done this several times to my friends Jeep comanche with the gm 2.8l motor that also came in some S10's....We did it basically for the fun of it but we would notice a difference for a little bit but then it would go away or maybe we just got used to it. It was carbed so we just pour it down the carb in both barrels...We've even put water in a spray bottle and sprayed it down while running, supposed to heat up and "steamclean the insides". Who knows if thats what technically it does but we did a difference with that too. Ive heard of Alot of people using the techron chevron, B12? in place of the seafoam. We've actually used that too, and supposedly ATF in the same situation and ATF in ur fuel is supposed to clean your injectors, never tried that tho.


I plan on using seafoam or the MCC if I find it on my 300k+ mile corolla...I know that has carbon in her since the last 2 owners babied it, but would rather try the MCC since I like the idea of the foam better.

Anyone have any bad experience on doing it with a car with High mileage like mine?

91RS383

On the first page there is a picture showing the MCCC being sprayed into the engine. The black hose he is spraying into is the emissions hose and the port it is plugged into is the PCV port on the intake.

No need to change the plugs unless they get fouled up. Thre is no mention in either the Jeep TSB or my Jeep FSM of needing to change plugs. I never have.

91RS383

Also don't forget to check all Mother Mopar stores, Jeep, Dodge, Chrysler, etc. Some dealerships stock up.

91RS383

Pics or vids please...

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Posted this elsewhere, but cross-posting in this thread to see if there's anything obvious that went wrong...

The engine had begun giving me audible knock in the upper MAP regions as the weather warmed up, and knowing I burn oil (with a Norris catch can installed), I wanted to clean it up before I try to eliminate the knock. Local GM dealer was out of top-end cleaner for "a couple of weeks", so I picked up two cans of MCCC. Also added a bottle of Lucas fuel system cleaner. Didn't have a friend nearby, so I decided to try a long piece of clear plastic tubing from the PCV port on the intake to the drivers seat. It sucked almost the entire first can down before the engine stopped nicely. Will try to give it three hours and we'll see what we get. I figure if it was ineffective from the long tube(?), then I have a second can to use with a short hose & a buddy.

Edit: Waited 2.5 hours, then started the car. Idled briefly, then died. Re-started and gave it a little gas and it stumbled a little bit but recovered. Let it idle 5,10,15 minutes, no smoke at all from the tailpipes. Odd. Took it out for a drive... it tends to want to die clutch in, rolling to a stop, or creeping over speed bumps. Ramped up the RPM's slowly, nothing unusual, no smoke at all. Turned right onto a street and gave it hell in first gear, didn't see any smoke at all. Something seems to be intermittently rattling from the passenger side, seems to be coming from the collector area. Not sure if it's something as simple as a loose heat shield.

I find it hard to believe that with the oil I burn that I wouldn't have any smoke? I've got a second can, should I do it again witha different procedure?

Edit 2: Thought I'd tried the oficial directions on the side of the second can. Warmed up engine for 15 minutes, sprayed directly into throttle body hole and bottom of blade until gone, shut off motor, closed hood, waited 15 minutes, then turned it back on and idled 5 minutes. No smoke yet. The intermittent rattle rate increases with RPM's. Guess I'll load a pre-Formato tune to see if it's a misfire, as he turned off misfire detection. It's not missing like previous misfires, though, where a broken single valvespring was the culprit. I have duals now, and the spring pressure was still like new 12 months ago.

Nebulus

iTrader: (14)

Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but it sounds to me that the OP is correcting the method rather than the product. For example, on the top end, instead of using the brake booster to suck the product in, OP suggests spraying it through the TB. Is one product too thick/harsh when used through the TB?

Edit: also, apologies for bumping an oldish thread.

LWCS561

iTrader: (1)

ive got a question. After you do the top end cleaning, should you change your oil?

LS6 WS6

Z-max

for bottom end and fuel system

WORKS GREAT! (better throttle response, cleaner exhaust, MORE POWER)

Im gunna try this MCCC for the top end eventually....