Security light on at cold idle?
Security light on at cold idle? This morning was pretty cold for Texas (~32F) lol. I get in the car to start it up, starts fine and after sitting for 15-20 seconds the security light comes on. I was affraid my car was about to die and make me late for work, but it just kept idling. I drove to the highway and kept it in 5th @ 60mph and after about a mile it went away.
The only thing I can think of is that my alternator is going out, cause (I know the voltmeters aren't accurate) the voltmeter reads very high. Like to the 3/4 mark, which is 15 volts, but sometimes higher around 16V.
The mods to the car is an MS3 cam, LS6 intake, tune and other bolt ons.
Can anyone help?
The only thing I can think of is that my alternator is going out, cause (I know the voltmeters aren't accurate) the voltmeter reads very high. Like to the 3/4 mark, which is 15 volts, but sometimes higher around 16V.
The mods to the car is an MS3 cam, LS6 intake, tune and other bolt ons.
Can anyone help?
you can try to use VATS bypass....or go to the dealer and have the whole column fixed for about 300$, mine does it also once a month.....do a search, there is a write up on here somewhere that will tell you how to do the bypass step by step if you want to try it
If I was to "try" this, and "try" that, I would have multiple systems all hacked up and still may be nowhere. I have not heard of a systemic problem with the VATS system for at least the 2002 Z28, so I would "try" other less expensive or intrusive troubleshooting things before spending big $ or hacking into internal wiring to "bypass" something. There was a post somewhere, where you clean the key resistor "chip" contacts and clean the key cylinder contacts, with a cleaner/lubricant. Both are very inexpensive and non-distructive for systems installed. There are a few more, I am sure, that may help locate the problem. After finding out what component or system is actually causing the problem, then you can determine what steps and $ neccessary to "fix" it. About the VATS bypass, the problem might just be a lump of pocket fuzz that was carried into the key cylinder during a startup cycle, cleaning both may be all thats neccessary. Could also be something else just as basic, check terminals, grounds, loose fuses in the systems tied into the problem areas. Point is, it doesn't have to cost big bucks or be so complicated to require complete bypass of a system designed into your BCM. My $0.02 cents worth...
I don't think it's VATS related.
I know how to bypass the system. I did it on my old car because the tiny little wires in the column broke and I couldn't keep them soldered together.
I'm still thinking it's voltage related. On these new cars they go ****** crazy if voltage is wrong or have electrical problems.
I know how to bypass the system. I did it on my old car because the tiny little wires in the column broke and I couldn't keep them soldered together.
I'm still thinking it's voltage related. On these new cars they go ****** crazy if voltage is wrong or have electrical problems.
