sluggish windows
#1
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sluggish windows
anyone else have these? i mean slowwww and if you try rolling them both at once, one will completly stop and then cut in and out the rest of the way up... any ideas?
#2
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These cars came with sluggish windows. I think I remember reading that the window motors should be 12 volts but they only get something like 10 volts for driver side and 8 volts for the passenger side.
I'm pretty sure there is a sponsor who sells something to correct the problem. Im going to check now.
link in post 15
I'm pretty sure there is a sponsor who sells something to correct the problem. Im going to check now.
link in post 15
Last edited by Pseudonym; 12-19-2009 at 05:11 PM.
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These cars came with sluggish windows. I think I remember reading that the window motors should be 12 volts but they only get something like 10 volts for driver side and 8 volts for the passenger side.
I'm pretty sure there is a sponsor who sells something to correct the problem. Im going to check now.
*edit* They are not a sponsor anymore. PM'd you the website.
I'm pretty sure there is a sponsor who sells something to correct the problem. Im going to check now.
*edit* They are not a sponsor anymore. PM'd you the website.
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#9
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Could you send me one too? If it's not too hard to do I'd like to fix this...I hate how slow my windows are haha.
It sounds like the window motor itself is going out...you could just replace it. Not too tough at all.
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Your welcome buddy.
Actually a sponsor does sell ithttp://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=2055
Actually a sponsor does sell ithttp://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=2055
Last edited by Pseudonym; 12-19-2009 at 05:10 PM.
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I just put this in another post but it'll help here too...
OK, the motors are not going bad, the resistance strip in the motor is. If you pull the motor and put the "bottom" of it in a vice with the black piece on "top" you will see the bent metal tabs that hold the black plastic piece in place. Bend those back and slide the black part up and off of the assembly. The brushes (metal almost square things) will fall out, possibly their springs too, catch them and put them somewhere safe. Look inside the black piece and you will see a copper strip of metal, that is the failed part. Solder a wire (at least 16 ga) from one end to the other, bypassing the safety resistance strip. This should solve the problem of the motor not working.
Reassembly is kind of a pain. You need to cut something thin the width of the space between the brushes. I used a piece of radio backstrap, use whatever you have. Place the springs and brushes back in their slides and push them in flush. Place the "tool" you cut between them to hold them in place. They need to be held in just by the corners, your tool needs to not block the hole where the motor drive shaft goes. Now flip the black piece back over and put it back on the assembly, removing your tool once the brushes get low enough that they will contact the drive shaft before seating it completely. You may have to use a screwdriver to align the motor drive shaft with the hole. Seat the black piece completely and bend the tabs back to hold it in. Now plug it back in and test the motor.
This sounds complicated but it really is not. Besides, you were going to buy a new motor anyway, what's the harm in attempting this repair?
***DISSCLAIMER***
This procedure will bypass the safety feature that stops your window from rolling up through resistance. Use this guide at your own risk, I am not responsible for anybody decapitating their dog or child with their window. If it is up all the way then release the switch and if there is something in the way then stop rolling it up!
OK, the motors are not going bad, the resistance strip in the motor is. If you pull the motor and put the "bottom" of it in a vice with the black piece on "top" you will see the bent metal tabs that hold the black plastic piece in place. Bend those back and slide the black part up and off of the assembly. The brushes (metal almost square things) will fall out, possibly their springs too, catch them and put them somewhere safe. Look inside the black piece and you will see a copper strip of metal, that is the failed part. Solder a wire (at least 16 ga) from one end to the other, bypassing the safety resistance strip. This should solve the problem of the motor not working.
Reassembly is kind of a pain. You need to cut something thin the width of the space between the brushes. I used a piece of radio backstrap, use whatever you have. Place the springs and brushes back in their slides and push them in flush. Place the "tool" you cut between them to hold them in place. They need to be held in just by the corners, your tool needs to not block the hole where the motor drive shaft goes. Now flip the black piece back over and put it back on the assembly, removing your tool once the brushes get low enough that they will contact the drive shaft before seating it completely. You may have to use a screwdriver to align the motor drive shaft with the hole. Seat the black piece completely and bend the tabs back to hold it in. Now plug it back in and test the motor.
This sounds complicated but it really is not. Besides, you were going to buy a new motor anyway, what's the harm in attempting this repair?
***DISSCLAIMER***
This procedure will bypass the safety feature that stops your window from rolling up through resistance. Use this guide at your own risk, I am not responsible for anybody decapitating their dog or child with their window. If it is up all the way then release the switch and if there is something in the way then stop rolling it up!
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The above info will not completely cure the slow passenger window issue, that is a voltage issue. There is a post on here showing you how to fix it with relays or the kit in the above link will fix that problem.