I cleaned my IAC an after I put it back in it fixed the idleing high while rolling. But now it bucks like it's cammed again when it's in low rpm it feels like it's trying to adjust, an at idle it surges a tiny bit like it's trying to find idle. Anyone know what this is or how to relearn idle. Thanks

 

It will find proper idle by itself.

If you want to speed up the process, you can turn A/C on and off for a few seconds at a time in park and drive.

 

But it kind of feels like its jolting or trying to adjust something when low rpm cruising or idling. Is there a reason it's doing this?

 

An is it relearning right? How long should it take should it take to correct?

 

anyone?

 

If you want to do the entire ordeal, here it is below.

I would just disconnect the battery, tap the positive terminal against the battery positive terminal 4 times getting a spark each time, then reconnect it. That resets the PCM.
Then do the idle relearn for the Auto or M6...whichever one you have.

.



Reset PCM:

-Insert key into ignition and turn to the "On" position but, DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
-Pop open the engine fuse block box cover and remove the two 10amp fuses from position numbers 16 & 23.
-Your DIC will now display "check" messages for ABS, etc...
-Turn ignition to the "Off" position.
-Re-insert both 10amp fuses for positions 16 & 23.
-Start your engine
-Allow engine coolant temperature to reach a minimum of 176 degrees F and run at this minimum temperature for at least 5 minutes.
-Shut down engine
-Let rest for a minimum of 30 seconds.
-Restart engine - check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
-Drive car for a minimum of 30 miles at varying rpm settings and speeds. PCM will now re-learn and adjust for the new air flow and air temperature at the intake.




Perform the following procedure to return the learned idle to the correct position:


Automatic Transmission:

1 Turn off the ignition

2 Restore the PCM battery feed

3 Turn Off the AC controls

4 Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels

5 Start the engine

6 Allow the engine coolant temperature to reach 176 degrees F

7 Shift the transmission selector into the drive range

8 Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes

9 Turn on the AC controls (Omit for 2000-02 model)

10 Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes (Omit for 2000-02 model)

11 Shift the transmission selector into Park

12 Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes (Omit for 2000-02 model)

13 Turn off the AC controls (Omit for 2000-02 model)

14 Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes

15 Turn off the engine for 15 seconds



Manual Transmission:

1 Turn Off the ignition

2 Restore the PCM battery feed

3 Turn Off the AC controls

4 Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels

5 Transmission in neutral

6 Start the engine

7 Allow the engine coolant temperature to reach 176 degrees F

8 Turn on the AC controls (Omit for 2000-02 model)

9 Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes (Omit for 2000-02 model)

10 Turn off the AC controls (Omit for 2000-02 model)

11 Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes

12 Turn off the engine for 15 seconds

.

 

I had some idle issues and some surging at low rpms in my 02 Camaro. I was told that some mafs can also cause this. I got another stock maf, not an aftermarket one, and the idle issues and surging at low rpms are now gone. Just food for thought.

 

Thanks to all responses I fixed the surging problem an now while moving I can shift in low rpm but if I let off the gas fully it will eventually start bucking at 1200 or so. An it's because when I hold the clutch in while moving at 30 or so it will go up to 1400-1600 an sit till I stop an it goes perfectly back to idle. What is causing it to buck an shoot up to 1400-1600 while moving?

 

I know many people have problems with aftermarket MAF due to the fact that they have higher freq. due to higher air intake. Tuning needs to be done to adjust the freq. reading so that the computer can adjust idle correctly. People put the stock MAF back on and yes it fixes the idle issue, but not because the aftermarket is faulty. Just a tuning issue on the MAF.

...but assuming you just didnt replace your MAF and only cleaned the IAC.. not to sure. You didnt have previous problems to this? Everything plugged in and/or in the right spot?

You may have damaged the IAC.

 

Yes, I have had the MAF on there for a while an thought id clean my IAC the top one right? An it was really dirty so I cleaned it an now it runs a bit better but when I start it it revs up to 2k real quick an ides fine. It could be the tune but not to sure it kinda just started this ordeal.

 

Im not sure if you are talking about the right part.. the IAC look like this..
and its a $100 dollar part if you messed it up.

 

Yup, that's the part I cleaned an it was black an full of carbon build up. Before I cleaned it, the idle would hang an would take a while to come down. Sence I cleaned it it drops back down to idle perfectly now but when im cruising at low speeds in high gear any time I let off the gas fully if it goes to 1500 or below it seems like the computer wants the engine at one speed an my throttle is fighting it so it bucks a bit. Anyone else had this problem please help me diagnose this. If I messed up my IAC how could it have gotten messed up?

 

It's a lot smoother after cleaning it but for some reason it does that an I have no clue why any help will be appreciated. I've heard that a bad coil or something will cause it to spudder kind of? It's just once it goes below 1400rpm off the gas it will buck a bit like a cammed car but I just put a 04 z06 cam in it.

 

Sounds like now that you defunkified your IAC that your tune may be off, not to sure, but worth a look.

 

The IAC motors are very durable. Not likely you damaged it by cleaning.

Did you pinch the "o" ring when you re-installed it and now you have a vacuum leak?

 

Where is the o-ring an I could check.

 

^ It's the orange thing in the picture in post #11.

 

Mine is missing, there wasn't one there. What should I do? When I start my car up everytime my rpm shoot up to 2k an go right back down.

 

Would the o-ring not there be causing all this? An could I get just a new o-ring. The only issue now is when I start my car my idle shoots up an it surges while deceling under 1500rpm?

 

Take the part and go to auto parts store and find a o-ring that will go around it and see if that solves your issue. You are not getting a seal so your idle will not remain constant and until you fix that, other problems if any will be hard to diagnose.

Also check to make sure the thing still works. To check the IAC motor remove the unit, with the wires connected turn the key to the "on" position without starting the engine, the IAC should move in or out. If the IAC motor does nothing it has probably failed and will need replaced.