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Universal Joint Replacement in 2002 Transam WS6

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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 03:30 PM
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Default Universal Joint Replacement in 2002 Transam WS6

So hard hard is it and how do I do it? Your help is greatly appreciated...
Its the rear U Joint by the way so will i break the seal if I pull the drive shaft on the front? If so how hard is it to replace that seal?
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 03:42 PM
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You can pull the drive shaft and not hurt anything, but unless you have access to a press you won't be doing the u-joint by yourself.

If you do pull the driveshaft, be very careful of the 2 bearing caps that will no longer be held captive once you take the ubolts out.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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A shop should charge $80 plus parts just go that route.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 08:13 PM
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our u joints are a pain in the *** because they have the plastic pins, but taking the driveshaft out is easy as hell, maybe take the driveshaft out and give it to a shop to put in new joints to keep the cost down.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by THE SHOP
A shop should charge $80 plus parts just go that route.
That sounds high. Shops out here charge about $15-$25 per u-joint for labor (if you supply the u-joints, which I suggest you do).
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Spartan7
That sounds high. Shops out here charge about $15-$25 per u-joint for labor (if you supply the u-joints, which I suggest you do).
Sorry, for a 99-02 model it calls for 1.3 mechanic hours average labor being 70$ a hour that comes to 91$, this is Mitchell, All data calls for the same. If you have the drive shaft removed I at my shop would do it for free but once again expect to pay $80 for the whole thing.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:42 AM
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Also I am curious why have him supply the U-joints if he is taking it to a shop some shops will not install customer supplied parts, the other ones will just not warranty it. You can ask them to get the U-joints you prefer.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by THE SHOP
Also I am curious why have him supply the U-joints if he is taking it to a shop some shops will not install customer supplied parts, the other ones will just not warranty it. You can ask them to get the U-joints you prefer.
If you can find a shop to do it, the logic here is you don't have to pay the parts mark-up. Usually, the shop will mark it up farther than the parts store will.
I just got bit by this recently (no choice, wife was stranded) with an alternator replacement on my S-10. The shop charged $50 above my cost for the same alt., and I don't get any special deal to buy it over the counter.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by fleetmgr
If you can find a shop to do it, the logic here is you don't have to pay the parts mark-up. Usually, the shop will mark it up farther than the parts store will.
I just got bit by this recently (no choice, wife was stranded) with an alternator replacement on my S-10. The shop charged $50 above my cost for the same alt., and I don't get any special deal to buy it over the counter.
I manage a shop, well aware of the procedure your talking about, a alternator is much more costly then U-joints so mark up is there two U -joints with lifetime warranty my cost $9.49 your walk in the store cost $15.72 my mark up price comes to $13.82. Also you can normally ask a shop to match the price.
My point is how is it logically on U-Joints for him to save ten dollars on mark up to sacrifice a warranty?
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 08:37 AM
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Did you get it fixed?
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by THE SHOP
Also I am curious why have him supply the U-joints if he is taking it to a shop some shops will not install customer supplied parts, the other ones will just not warranty it. You can ask them to get the U-joints you prefer.
Because not all shops use decent parts, and not all of them are honest. I wasn't trying to insult you, I'm just stating what they charge out here. What you charge is your business.

I prefer to buy my own Spicer u-joints. That way I know what's going in my car. JMHO.
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