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AC wont work

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Old May 2, 2010 | 08:13 AM
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Default AC wont work

Its a little hard to explain but ill try. When i turn the AC on from inside the car the compressor wont turn on, it was fine until my belt broke and since then, it doesnt work. but, i checked out the compressor and it seems fine, all the wires are intact and no damage to it. I checked if the fuse is blown and it isnt, this is the weird part. If i use a spare wire and connect the wire where the fuse should go, the clutch engages. Buddy of mine said maybe AC Switch, where is that switch? any help would be appreciated.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:03 PM
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1. check every fuse in the car.
2. pull out the heater switch control pannel , with a ohm meter check that the switch isn't "open" in the ON postion.
3. jump the terminals in the harness w/ a wire that goes to the A/C switch. if the compressor clutch kicks, your switch might be bad.
4. take a good close look at the compressor and clutch, make sure that no pieces of drive belt left that got wedged in anywhere.


try those things first. shouldn't take but 30mins to do all that.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 01:02 AM
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thanks Homeless. I checked all of it, and when i jumped it with a wires and it switched on. I guess maybe it is the switch. thanks for the info!
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Old May 4, 2010 | 04:09 PM
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KOOL, just OHMs test out the switch before you start to buy stuff.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 10:45 AM
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I got the switch, and it appears that the switch is located on one of the ac lines? i guess i have to take it into the shop to get it replace. bummer, was hoping to keep it out of the shop.
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Old May 11, 2010 | 09:55 AM
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Keep researching and poking around until you figure it out. Shops are just gonna make stuff up saying you needed it and blah blah blah
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Old May 11, 2010 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 00bird
I got the switch, and it appears that the switch is located on one of the ac lines? i guess i have to take it into the shop to get it replace. bummer, was hoping to keep it out of the shop.
Yup, the switch taps directly into the line. The only way to change it is to blow the charge (unless you're REALLY, REALLY fast ).
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Old May 11, 2010 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by fleetmgr
Yup, the switch taps directly into the line. The only way to change it is to blow the charge (unless you're REALLY, REALLY fast ).
what exactly does that switch do?
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Old May 11, 2010 | 08:59 PM
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Depends on which one you're talking about, there's a couple of them. Go to this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ac-repair.html and look at the diagram that's in the 3rd or 4th post down. If you can pick out the one you're talking about, I'll be happy to explain...but you might want to read the whole thread, as I or the OP may have already answered your question.
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Old May 11, 2010 | 11:11 PM
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took a pic of it. connected to the bottom line.

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Old May 13, 2010 | 09:45 AM
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To the OP and the rest reading this thread... I havent seen this thread say that you have even check to see if it even has a charge. You might of bought the switch it for no reason. Please check the system for pressure before you do anything else. Gauges should be your biggest tool in refrigeration. They can tell you just about anything I.E if the system has refrigerant, if the compressor has bad valves ore going bad, if you have valve flutter, if you have non-condensables in the system, if you have a bad metering device etc....You might not even need a new switch or have a bad fuse or anything else besides being low pressure on the system. Maybe you have heard people say "I think its low on Freon!". Check it guys. get back and let us know what you find. Good luck---Joshua
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Old May 13, 2010 | 12:59 PM
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LoL. . . . . What he said. . .

Start with the pressures, then work your way back you should be good. . . . Our AC system is not very complex.
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Old May 13, 2010 | 08:48 PM
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check the clutch connector with a volt meter as well. I had the connector make intermittent contact and cause my AC to only work sometimes. Drove me nuts and made me park the car and drive my GTO for several months. Replaced the terminal in the connector and then it worked 100% of the time after that, the cheapest AC fix of $0.25 to replace the 2 terminals.

Ryan
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Old May 16, 2010 | 10:49 PM
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If you dont have refrigerant in the system, it will not turn the compressor on... You can unplug the pressure switch in the line, as posted in the picture, then take a cotter pin and stick it in the plug, witch will bypass the switch and should kick on the fan and compressor. Most likely it will turn on, and you need a recharge with dye to find the leak.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 08:29 AM
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That "switch" is a pressure transducer and does both a high and low pressure cutoff using the pcm. You do not want to "jump" that sensor, as the compressor will still not work.

You can jump the compressor relay.

Ryan
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Old May 17, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by slow
That "switch" is a pressure transducer and does both a high and low pressure cutoff using the pcm. You do not want to "jump" that sensor, as the compressor will still not work.

You can jump the compressor relay.

Ryan
Really? Not that I have ever tried or needed to. But, from what I understood if you jump the two wires in the pressure switch it will be bypassed. When it is bypassed the PCM will not know not to let kick the compressor on because the pressure is out of spec.
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