Fluids?
-Drew
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Last edited by fleetmgr; Jun 15, 2010 at 06:17 AM.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
-Drew
Oil....here we go...you're gonna get all kinds of opinions here. I can tell you my experience. I've used nothing but $2.79 cheapo Castrol GTX NON-synthetic oil and Purolator filters for OVER 140,000 miles on my 427ci stroker engine....and its purring like a kitten still and has never had one single internal issue. Just keep it clean with 3,000 mile oil/filter changes and thats ALL you can do for engine longevity.
Its a regular car....use regular DOT 3 brake fluid.
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I agree with the people who say the Dex is fine. Use the newest Dex (I use the prestone dexcool 5 year stuff). About the oil? I use the el-cheapo API certified wallyworld super tech brand (lately the 10W-40 high milage due to vehicle with 97K), and with a bottle of the engine treatment (15oz) to coat the bearing/friction surfaces that need something before oil pressure is up during engine startups. All the years and hundreds of thousands of miles since 1972, I never had a failure do to lubrication. No folks, it wasn't always wallyworld oil since 72, it was the el-cheapo's oil and STP (or wallyworlds equivilent supertech brand) since 1972. All the other crap is microminutia engineering BS and creative advertising, to lure you out of your $. One example, my old 87 electra park avenue (may she rest in peace since trade-in) that had 185K. It threw the fiber timing gear (that 3800 engine is notorious for that malady) at 163K and when the local college automotive class replaced both gears and chain (at a cost of $63.00 in parts and 'bundles of shop towels' donation), they had to double-take the odometer saying to me they had never seen an engine of that milage be so clean in the lower end. I believe they still think the cluster was replaced with a used one with much higher milage than actual, as they doubted the original actual milage reading. The students were majority high school, but many were seasoned mechanics getting refreshers, and of course the instructor who had decades of experience in auto repair before he lost an arm in an auto accident. For the 'what its worth' department, I do not race, only abuse some. No need here for accessories like electric oil pumps or dual filter banks, or any other consideration beyond OEM motor maintenence requirements. Only mod I have done to the system, is having a old speaker magnet (round flat one with hole in it) firmly attached to the bottom (end) of the filter. Its magnetic field holds it in place, and a small strip of carpet tape cut-to-fit keeps it from sliding off or moving around at all. I got that idea after seeing folks pay $89.00 for curved painted magnets for the sides of their oil filters. I got the magnets from an old set of high powered speakers I had to replace many years ago. When I change the oil, I just move the magnet off the old filter, clean it up, and reattach it to the new filter. It has yet to be pulled off, or fallen off, and it is there to 'collect' any metal particles that 'might' flow through the filter. In closing, use what works, unless you want to support someones advertising campaign or mortgage payments!
Not to get off topic, but what would cause the DOT3 brake fluid to darken? I did a total replace last fall, and its dark again. The lid is tight and I never leave the lid off. How can it be picking up moisture? Could it be the extreme heat (the abs lines are extremely hot in the summer months, so hot it burns very quickly, any part of your body that touches it accidentially). Would this car benifit a DOT4? In other words, could overheated DOT3 fluid darken, or is it what I suspect, that moisture is getting in somehow. I am in the southeast, and its daily very humid, during the spring/summer/fall seasons.


