FireBirdSoldier

Hey guys, i got my trans am 3 months and 3.5k miles ago. I changed the oil/filter/plugs/wires/fuel filter/tranny flush/diff fluids, when i bought it. Im gonna change the oil now again and i was wondering what brands of engine coolant/radiator fluid/brake fluid etc etc you think i should consider changing? The car has 99k on it. My DD. Previous owners didnt take care of it..judging from the stock plugs at 95k..And any other maintenance things you guys can think of? I am a novice so please forgive me if i make a mistake. But im willin' to learn! And i have a haynes manual..i was considering helms..but idk. Anyways. Thanks in advance for all your input. Much appreciated..

-Drew

fleetmgr

For coolant, stick with Dex. Brake fluid, any Dot 3 will do fine.

FireBirdSoldier

Thanks fleet

killagt

iTrader: (3)

I would never use DEX !! flush that shiit out and use green stuff !!.

Choppers

iTrader: (60)

Yea go with the green stuff. Just make sure you get all the dex out or it will be a mess.

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

You're doing a good job so far. Also, just because it had the original plugs at 95K doesn't mean it was neglected. Those AC Delco platinums can easily go 100K miles without a hiccup.

killagt

iTrader: (3)

I dont beleive 100K miles plug ! I dont care what factory of the plug say. 50k is max for me, 30k on ngk TR55 or TR5 plug sound about perfect.

fleetmgr

And I'll use the proven results of many millions of vehicles, driven a couple of billion miles with zero problems over ignorant, uninformed blather. Dex works just fine, and outlasts green by 3 or 4 to 1.

blades11b

iTrader: (1)

the biggest problem that the origional dex caused in engines (especially aluminum ones) was that it had silicate in it. i use preston dex cool approved it has no silicate in it it works pretty good

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I don't understand the issues some people have with DEX....its all I've ever used for 12+ years in my LS1 and it stays perfectly clean all the time. Car runs cool as a cucumber.

Oil....here we go...you're gonna get all kinds of opinions here. I can tell you my experience. I've used nothing but $2.79 cheapo Castrol GTX NON-synthetic oil and Purolator filters for OVER 140,000 miles on my 427ci stroker engine....and its purring like a kitten still and has never had one single internal issue. Just keep it clean with 3,000 mile oil/filter changes and thats ALL you can do for engine longevity.

Its a regular car....use regular DOT 3 brake fluid.

.

02LS1Z28BC

iTrader: (4)

I agree with the people who say the Dex is fine. Use the newest Dex (I use the prestone dexcool 5 year stuff). About the oil? I use the el-cheapo API certified wallyworld super tech brand (lately the 10W-40 high milage due to vehicle with 97K), and with a bottle of the engine treatment (15oz) to coat the bearing/friction surfaces that need something before oil pressure is up during engine startups. All the years and hundreds of thousands of miles since 1972, I never had a failure do to lubrication. No folks, it wasn't always wallyworld oil since 72, it was the el-cheapo's oil and STP (or wallyworlds equivilent supertech brand) since 1972. All the other crap is microminutia engineering BS and creative advertising, to lure you out of your $. One example, my old 87 electra park avenue (may she rest in peace since trade-in) that had 185K. It threw the fiber timing gear (that 3800 engine is notorious for that malady) at 163K and when the local college automotive class replaced both gears and chain (at a cost of $63.00 in parts and 'bundles of shop towels' donation), they had to double-take the odometer saying to me they had never seen an engine of that milage be so clean in the lower end. I believe they still think the cluster was replaced with a used one with much higher milage than actual, as they doubted the original actual milage reading. The students were majority high school, but many were seasoned mechanics getting refreshers, and of course the instructor who had decades of experience in auto repair before he lost an arm in an auto accident. For the 'what its worth' department, I do not race, only abuse some. No need here for accessories like electric oil pumps or dual filter banks, or any other consideration beyond OEM motor maintenence requirements. Only mod I have done to the system, is having a old speaker magnet (round flat one with hole in it) firmly attached to the bottom (end) of the filter. Its magnetic field holds it in place, and a small strip of carpet tape cut-to-fit keeps it from sliding off or moving around at all. I got that idea after seeing folks pay $89.00 for curved painted magnets for the sides of their oil filters. I got the magnets from an old set of high powered speakers I had to replace many years ago. When I change the oil, I just move the magnet off the old filter, clean it up, and reattach it to the new filter. It has yet to be pulled off, or fallen off, and it is there to 'collect' any metal particles that 'might' flow through the filter. In closing, use what works, unless you want to support someones advertising campaign or mortgage payments!

02LS1Z28BC

iTrader: (4)

Not to get off topic, but what would cause the DOT3 brake fluid to darken? I did a total replace last fall, and its dark again. The lid is tight and I never leave the lid off. How can it be picking up moisture? Could it be the extreme heat (the abs lines are extremely hot in the summer months, so hot it burns very quickly, any part of your body that touches it accidentially). Would this car benifit a DOT4? In other words, could overheated DOT3 fluid darken, or is it what I suspect, that moisture is getting in somehow. I am in the southeast, and its daily very humid, during the spring/summer/fall seasons.

fleetmgr

It darkens due to moisture absorption. That's why it's generally accepted bad practice to keep it after opening for any length of time. The lid on the bottle is insufficient to prevent this. The only benefit to Dot 4 is a slightly higher boiling point. If you aren't Auto Crossing, then there isn't a benefit.

FireBirdSoldier

Alright finally found time to do my oil today! lol But while i was reading the pdf owners manual..it says..something bout 5w-30 only being good for temps like sub zero to around 60?? summers here are 80-105..should i go back and get 10w-30?? daily drive..im not "stupid" with the car but i do get on it..so yea, hoping for quick response =)..thanks in advance!

fleetmgr

5w-30 will work fine.