Apr 25, 2016, 04:59 PM
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Steering Column Disassembly/Removal (with pics)
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Last Question...I hope:) LASTLY, This black plastic piece was on my floor board under my steering column area before I got too deep into the tear down, I can't find any illustration to tell me WHERE this goes...any ideas on either or both things I have going on? Anything missing from my actuator/rack connection or the plastic piece...thanks! I hate not having a exploded illustration of this area 
Its just a black, oval, sleeve looking part....
Its just a black, oval, sleeve looking part....
I don't recognise that piece of rubber?
The rack should be strait.
That piece on the right of the 1st pic's should be connected to the actuator rod.
Cannot tell from the pic if it is?
I'll add this to the thread;
The rack should be strait.
That piece on the right of the 1st pic's should be connected to the actuator rod.
Cannot tell from the pic if it is?
I'll add this to the thread;
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Thanks....the two aren't connected at the moment, they can connect but the problem I have is that they don't stay connected when in motion..that's why I was curious if there was a clip or something that secure those two pieces together that is missing or broken, of if this is all happening because the rack is slightly bent to the left causing a mis-alignment. I have yet to figure out what that oval piece of plastic is, couldn't find it on your diagram, thanks for posting that though, I appreciate it!
In the diagram I posted # 29 the lock bolt/pin locks the wheel with #7 shaft lock sheild/plate.
iIs the gear on the end of the lock cylinder 'clocked' correctly to the rack?
You didn't mess with #31 & 32 lock shoe etc?
iIs the gear on the end of the lock cylinder 'clocked' correctly to the rack?
You didn't mess with #31 & 32 lock shoe etc?
In the 2nd pic you have to push down the "shaft lock shield assembly," or # 7 in the diagram that wrencher posted. If that circle was a clock, look at 11 o'clock and you'll see a silver tube thing poking through: that's what prevents the steering wheel from turning when the key is out of the ignition.
In pic 4 you can see that metal tube again directly above the "turn signal arm screw" label.
In pic 8 you can see it with everything else removed. As wrencher already said, it is #29 in the exploded diagram. There is a notch on the back of it that causes it to retract when you turn the ignition, and a spring that causes it to move forward (#30 in diagram). Did you properly position the spring when reassembling?? You can see how it is connected to the ignition in pic 8.
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Questions on Putting Bank Together I took my steering column apart and found these three parts on the floor. I see one part is mentioned above but I cannot figure out where it or the others go. Can anyone offer any assistance?
Thank you
Thank you
To remove the steering column housing, you must remove the pivot pins, and this requires a “steering pivot pin remover.” I borrowed mine, but I’m pretty sure you can pick it up from a parts store. You just screw it into the center of the pivot pin, then pop that sucker on out. Do the same to both sides. You also have to remove the “upper bearing inner race seat” that keeps the steering shaft from sliding forward and backwards. To do this, use the hook tool (or something) to simply pull it out.
Now, there are two ways that I know of to get the entire steering column housing off.
1) Remove the dowel pin. I inserted a small punch (see picture) and gently tapped on it until it popped through.
2) Attach your tilt lever; pull it back all the way to disengage the “steering wheel lock shoes” and tilt up on the housing to try and wiggle it free. With this method you don’t have to worry about the steering wheel lock shoes coming disengaged.
IMO method 1 is easier. However, if the steering wheel lock shoes fall out, continue reading. If they don’t fall out, just skip to the next paragraph. For me, I was fiddling with the housing once it was removed and the steering wheel lock shoes fell out… So if this happens to you, you have to reposition them between the spring and the tilt lever, then get the dowel pin back in place. The 1st shoe wasn’t too difficult, but to get the dowel pin through the 2nd shoe I had to use the punch to position it while tapping the dowel pin through the other side with the hammer.
Now you should be able to pull the steering column housing off. When you pull it out the “wheel tilt spring” and the “switch actuator rack” might fall out.
If your “steering column housing support assembly” needs replacing, remove the 4 screws holding it in place and do so. Somehow mine broke where the left pivot pin is secured, thereby jamming my ignition switch so I could barely turn my car off…like WTF mate…
Now, there are two ways that I know of to get the entire steering column housing off.
1) Remove the dowel pin. I inserted a small punch (see picture) and gently tapped on it until it popped through.
2) Attach your tilt lever; pull it back all the way to disengage the “steering wheel lock shoes” and tilt up on the housing to try and wiggle it free. With this method you don’t have to worry about the steering wheel lock shoes coming disengaged.
IMO method 1 is easier. However, if the steering wheel lock shoes fall out, continue reading. If they don’t fall out, just skip to the next paragraph. For me, I was fiddling with the housing once it was removed and the steering wheel lock shoes fell out… So if this happens to you, you have to reposition them between the spring and the tilt lever, then get the dowel pin back in place. The 1st shoe wasn’t too difficult, but to get the dowel pin through the 2nd shoe I had to use the punch to position it while tapping the dowel pin through the other side with the hammer.
Now you should be able to pull the steering column housing off. When you pull it out the “wheel tilt spring” and the “switch actuator rack” might fall out.
If your “steering column housing support assembly” needs replacing, remove the 4 screws holding it in place and do so. Somehow mine broke where the left pivot pin is secured, thereby jamming my ignition switch so I could barely turn my car off…like WTF mate…
I am stuck at this point. I'd rather not push the pin out and mess with the wheel lock shoes. But I can't seem to get it to come off with Method #2. Can you describe this to me a little better?
Also, once the 'steering column housing' comes off, will I have access to the four (4) E8 external torx screws which come loose over time? I sure hope so. Haha.
Question for anyone who has done this before. When I got to the 'lower housing assembly', I was expecting to find four (4) E8 external torx bolts. I found these instead.......
Yes, I had removed one in the picture, it was not missing. So I took these out and applied loctite to them. Before I put everything back together, should I look into sourcing the E8 torx bolts that are 'supposed' to be in there?
I'm thinking someone replaced these at one point, or my 1998 Pontiac steering column differed from all other GM steering columns.
Yes, I had removed one in the picture, it was not missing. So I took these out and applied loctite to them. Before I put everything back together, should I look into sourcing the E8 torx bolts that are 'supposed' to be in there?
I'm thinking someone replaced these at one point, or my 1998 Pontiac steering column differed from all other GM steering columns.
Question for anyone who has done this before. When I got to the 'lower housing assembly', I was expecting to find four (4) E8 external torx bolts. I found these instead.......
Yes, I had removed one in the picture, it was not missing. So I took these out and applied loctite to them. Before I put everything back together, should I look into sourcing the E8 torx bolts that are 'supposed' to be in there?
I'm thinking someone replaced these at one point, or my 1998 Pontiac steering column differed from all other GM steering columns.
Yes, I had removed one in the picture, it was not missing. So I took these out and applied loctite to them. Before I put everything back together, should I look into sourcing the E8 torx bolts that are 'supposed' to be in there?
I'm thinking someone replaced these at one point, or my 1998 Pontiac steering column differed from all other GM steering columns.
Reference this site and go back and forth between pages to see things full disassembled:
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_Rebuild.pdf
To get to that point, you need to take the two pivot pins out that hold the black portion that retains the tilt locking paws/etc. I bought a pivot pin puller off Amazon for $5.
Reference this site and go back and forth between pages to see things full disassembled:
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_Rebuild.pdf
Reference this site and go back and forth between pages to see things full disassembled:
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_Rebuild.pdf
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Found this thread while working through a few things wrong with my 99 Z28 and decided that I wasn't brave enough to play with an air bag and my steering wheel so I took it to my local "stealership". They said, "eh...shouldn't be more than an hour or hour and a half."
Needless to say I am now $388.00 poorer and Kicking Myself For Not Following Along and Doing It Myself.
Thanks OP for this write up and all the follow ups from those that have done it or know what they're doing. Next Time I Will Be Smart Enough To Take Advantage Of It!
On the receipt it says, "Tightened Tilt Bolts but Tilt Pens Are Worn Out. Needs Steering Column. Customer Declined." Nobody asked if I wanted a steering column but I'm sure I'd be out $1200 if I had said ok.
Just wondering though if anybody can tell me if this "repair" will last if my "tilt pens" are worn out or if I should be keeping an eye out for a deal on a steering column?
For reference: I adjust my steering wheel every time I drive from an upper position to get in and out to the lowest position when I drive. I'm easy on it and don't use the steering wheel to get in or out of the car. It's lasted 15 years so far but I'm curious if those that know can give an estimated guess. Thanks.
Needless to say I am now $388.00 poorer and Kicking Myself For Not Following Along and Doing It Myself.
Thanks OP for this write up and all the follow ups from those that have done it or know what they're doing. Next Time I Will Be Smart Enough To Take Advantage Of It!
On the receipt it says, "Tightened Tilt Bolts but Tilt Pens Are Worn Out. Needs Steering Column. Customer Declined." Nobody asked if I wanted a steering column but I'm sure I'd be out $1200 if I had said ok.
Just wondering though if anybody can tell me if this "repair" will last if my "tilt pens" are worn out or if I should be keeping an eye out for a deal on a steering column?
For reference: I adjust my steering wheel every time I drive from an upper position to get in and out to the lowest position when I drive. I'm easy on it and don't use the steering wheel to get in or out of the car. It's lasted 15 years so far but I'm curious if those that know can give an estimated guess. Thanks.
Found this thread while working through a few things wrong with my 99 Z28 and decided that I wasn't brave enough to play with an air bag and my steering wheel so I took it to my local "stealership". They said, "eh...shouldn't be more than an hour or hour and a half."
Needless to say I am now $388.00 poorer and Kicking Myself For Not Following Along and Doing It Myself.
Thanks OP for this write up and all the follow ups from those that have done it or know what they're doing. Next Time I Will Be Smart Enough To Take Advantage Of It!
On the receipt it says, "Tightened Tilt Bolts but Tilt Pens Are Worn Out. Needs Steering Column. Customer Declined." Nobody asked if I wanted a steering column but I'm sure I'd be out $1200 if I had said ok.
Just wondering though if anybody can tell me if this "repair" will last if my "tilt pens" are worn out or if I should be keeping an eye out for a deal on a steering column?
For reference: I adjust my steering wheel every time I drive from an upper position to get in and out to the lowest position when I drive. I'm easy on it and don't use the steering wheel to get in or out of the car. It's lasted 15 years so far but I'm curious if those that know can give an estimated guess. Thanks.
Needless to say I am now $388.00 poorer and Kicking Myself For Not Following Along and Doing It Myself.
Thanks OP for this write up and all the follow ups from those that have done it or know what they're doing. Next Time I Will Be Smart Enough To Take Advantage Of It!
On the receipt it says, "Tightened Tilt Bolts but Tilt Pens Are Worn Out. Needs Steering Column. Customer Declined." Nobody asked if I wanted a steering column but I'm sure I'd be out $1200 if I had said ok.
Just wondering though if anybody can tell me if this "repair" will last if my "tilt pens" are worn out or if I should be keeping an eye out for a deal on a steering column?
For reference: I adjust my steering wheel every time I drive from an upper position to get in and out to the lowest position when I drive. I'm easy on it and don't use the steering wheel to get in or out of the car. It's lasted 15 years so far but I'm curious if those that know can give an estimated guess. Thanks.
The GM column is a design that hasn't changed since the 60's, aside from adding things like the airbag, extra wiring for the chip in the key, etc. All the parts can be had inexpensively and they are re-buildable.
IMO - The only reason why you would get a new steering column is if you are in a situation where the labor cost to rebuild is more than the cost of a new column and the labor to put that in. (If you go to a dealership, you'll hit this trade-off point a lot faster!)
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
The GM column is a design that hasn't changed since the 60's, aside from adding things like the airbag, extra wiring for the chip in the key, etc. All the parts can be had inexpensively and they are re-buildable.
IMO - The only reason why you would get a new steering column is if you are in a situation where the labor cost to rebuild is more than the cost of a new column and the labor to put that in. (If you go to a dealership, you'll hit this trade-off point a lot faster!)
IMO - The only reason why you would get a new steering column is if you are in a situation where the labor cost to rebuild is more than the cost of a new column and the labor to put that in. (If you go to a dealership, you'll hit this trade-off point a lot faster!)