A/C compressor has gone out
A/C compressor has gone out Just wondering what my options are for a replacement.
I got Orielly's price for reman = $242 plus $10core and if i want the warranty, need to get the hoses $80
So that way is $322
Called the stealership and got price and part # to look up on gmdirect..
Gmdirect = $379
Jegs i found some, but are not specific on what it fits, just says what type of connections it will accept. But a nice chrome one is $279(#555-51806)
So right now Jegs is looking like the better deal, we are working on replacing parts as needs with chrome and so on to dress up the motor a little bit. And since the compressor went out, now would be the time to get the chrome one if it will work.. Can anyone tell me if the Jegs part listed above will work on a 99TA?
I got Orielly's price for reman = $242 plus $10core and if i want the warranty, need to get the hoses $80
So that way is $322
Called the stealership and got price and part # to look up on gmdirect..
Gmdirect = $379
Jegs i found some, but are not specific on what it fits, just says what type of connections it will accept. But a nice chrome one is $279(#555-51806)
So right now Jegs is looking like the better deal, we are working on replacing parts as needs with chrome and so on to dress up the motor a little bit. And since the compressor went out, now would be the time to get the chrome one if it will work.. Can anyone tell me if the Jegs part listed above will work on a 99TA?
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So i borrowed a leak detector and put some new freon in, a/c got cold, worked my way up and down each hose and connection. As well as areas close to the connections and hose and never found any leak.. what else could i check for? and when "fleetmgr" says flushing the system, what is involved in that? i dont want to mess anything up if i do replace something.. if its not hold the freon, is there really anythign to flush?
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Tulsa, OK
What I mean is that if you have a compressor failure (and based on your last post, you may not be there), you sling all that metal from the dying compressor out into the system. All that crap may or may not get collected in the orifice tube. If any of it gets past the orifice tube, it will migrate to the new compressor. When it does, your new compressor bites it.
If it just collects in the orifice tube, you end up with a system that won't cool because the orifice is plugged. It also can collect in the condenser and decrease efficiency there. It MUST be flushed out. There is a special cleaner used to do this, and essentially you blow the cleaner through the system with compressed air.
But, if your compressor is still working then you are right, there's nothing to flush. Sounds more like you just have a leak. Check the 2 most common failure points...the compressor crankshaft seal which is right behind the clutch, and the compressor casing seal, where the compressor halves come together. If the leak is at either of those 2 spots, you'll still need a new compressor because the parts required to fix a leak at either point aren't available. But you won't need to flush the system. You'll also need to put more oil in the system when recharging. If it leaks refrigerant, it leaks oil too.
If it just collects in the orifice tube, you end up with a system that won't cool because the orifice is plugged. It also can collect in the condenser and decrease efficiency there. It MUST be flushed out. There is a special cleaner used to do this, and essentially you blow the cleaner through the system with compressed air.
But, if your compressor is still working then you are right, there's nothing to flush. Sounds more like you just have a leak. Check the 2 most common failure points...the compressor crankshaft seal which is right behind the clutch, and the compressor casing seal, where the compressor halves come together. If the leak is at either of those 2 spots, you'll still need a new compressor because the parts required to fix a leak at either point aren't available. But you won't need to flush the system. You'll also need to put more oil in the system when recharging. If it leaks refrigerant, it leaks oil too.
Then im at a loss.. i have still a borrowed leak detector.. the sniffer.. i put some freon in and ac began to blow cold.. so with the detector, i placed it at ever hose end and down and around each hose.. got under the car and placed it over and under the compressor and behind the clutch.. and it never went off.. now to make sure, i placed it next to the connection where i was putting in the new freon and once i removed the can, it went off.. so i know it works and senses the freon.. but could never find any leaks.. so what should i check or do next?
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Figured as much 
ive spent about $50 in freon over the last month trying to find it and could have just spent that on the dye kit and probably already found it.. but ill try that next.. i think i know someone that may have the kit already and could borrow it..
thanks.
ive spent about $50 in freon over the last month trying to find it and could have just spent that on the dye kit and probably already found it.. but ill try that next.. i think i know someone that may have the kit already and could borrow it.. thanks.
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I just went through the exact same circumstance as you describe. Everything the same. Just as fleetmgr suggested mine was leaking at the compressor seals. $762 later, all good. Sorry to break the bad news to you.
Why so much? Did you do the install yourself? if it comes down to the compressor, im going to get the gmdirect one for it. Did you replace the hoses also? i can get the hoses for $80, just wondering if i should go ahead and do that when i replace the compressor.
What I mean is that if you have a compressor failure (and based on your last post, you may not be there), you sling all that metal from the dying compressor out into the system. All that crap may or may not get collected in the orifice tube. If any of it gets past the orifice tube, it will migrate to the new compressor. When it does, your new compressor bites it.
If it just collects in the orifice tube, you end up with a system that won't cool because the orifice is plugged. It also can collect in the condenser and decrease efficiency there. It MUST be flushed out. There is a special cleaner used to do this, and essentially you blow the cleaner through the system with compressed air.
But, if your compressor is still working then you are right, there's nothing to flush. Sounds more like you just have a leak. Check the 2 most common failure points...the compressor crankshaft seal which is right behind the clutch, and the compressor casing seal, where the compressor halves come together. If the leak is at either of those 2 spots, you'll still need a new compressor because the parts required to fix a leak at either point aren't available. But you won't need to flush the system. You'll also need to put more oil in the system when recharging. If it leaks refrigerant, it leaks oil too.
If it just collects in the orifice tube, you end up with a system that won't cool because the orifice is plugged. It also can collect in the condenser and decrease efficiency there. It MUST be flushed out. There is a special cleaner used to do this, and essentially you blow the cleaner through the system with compressed air.
But, if your compressor is still working then you are right, there's nothing to flush. Sounds more like you just have a leak. Check the 2 most common failure points...the compressor crankshaft seal which is right behind the clutch, and the compressor casing seal, where the compressor halves come together. If the leak is at either of those 2 spots, you'll still need a new compressor because the parts required to fix a leak at either point aren't available. But you won't need to flush the system. You'll also need to put more oil in the system when recharging. If it leaks refrigerant, it leaks oil too.
If it's like other GM compressors the shaft seal on the front is leaking and possibly the seals on the body of the compressor.I have never resealed a V7 compressor like on yours,but I have put new seals in many V5,Hd6,and Ht6 GM compressors.
I resealed the Hd6 compressor on my Bird a month ago and it's doing great.The seals cost about $30 and it only takes a about an hour to reseal one once of the car.It sure as hell beats paying $200 for just the compressor for my car.
I resealed the Hd6 compressor on my Bird a month ago and it's doing great.The seals cost about $30 and it only takes a about an hour to reseal one once of the car.It sure as hell beats paying $200 for just the compressor for my car.
I would put some dye in the system before you pull anything so you can verify the leaks.
Well i bought the leak kit, had i bought this a long time ago i would have saved alot of time and money.. During one of the times we were checking the system a while back.. we had used some of that freon with the leak detector already in it. Well needless to say, as soon as i turned on the uv light and started to look, the entire top portion of the compressor was glowing green from that dye.. I didnt have to use the kit, so i may just take it back and only buy the uv light to have in the future.. i have spent to much on trying to find it and if i would have done the leak test first, i would have found it and had ac by now.. So at this point, we are looking to order the compressor from gmpartsdirect.com and be done with it.. (dealer part#1137028) and (gmpartsdirect part# 89018956) im waiting to hear back from customer service to make sure thats in fact the part needed for the car.. is there any reason, besides cost, not to get the compressor? Looking at the cost of the parts needed, its pretty expensive, i rather not rent the tools as i tend to work on cars alot, i would eventually need it again. Calculating it came out to about $100 new for the cheapest ones and $30 for used ones from ebay. Now looking online at the autoparts store, all i can find is this one, is this what i would need?
Santech/Compressor shaft lip seal kit for GM/Harrison V7
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=946289_0_0_
if so, then i may just go the used parts way and do the reseal for about $50 with tools..
Santech/Compressor shaft lip seal kit for GM/Harrison V7
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=946289_0_0_
if so, then i may just go the used parts way and do the reseal for about $50 with tools..
Only issue now is the top bolt holding in the compressor, i have everything else off from under the car, just need to remove the top bolt and cant get the right angle to remove. Any suggestions on how to remove it?
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Joined: Mar 2011
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V7 info the V7 compressor shaft seal is held in by a snap ring and once you get the ringout a simple pair of long nose pliers will get the seal out(a little pressure in the system will push it out also..lol) the only thing that needs to be removed is the clutch itself, the actual seal is internal behind the clutch and taking the pulley and the coil off the front of the compressor will not help you with access at all so leave it in place. the pulley is pressed on the outside of the casting where the seal is. I did mine on an s10 and left the compressor on the vehicle, but with yours being on the bottom it will probably be easier to work with and see also if its is off the car. rent the clutch puller from Oreilly's it makes the job simple and also make sure you check the clearance measurement from the clutch to the coil during install ( there is a specific gap) Don't forget to lube the shaft and the seal with PAG150 oil prior to install also. Good luck!!!
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: south jersey. again
if the ac was blowing cold after putting freon in, it wouldnt be the clutch. are you sure the compressor is leaking, you checked all the hoses and fittings for leaks? not saying it isnt the compressor, but the length of time you say between tests the stuff could have gotten on there from dripping.