Go to there website, they have a store locator.

.

 

BG 44K is just mineral spirits and other petroleum fillers, so it won't do everything that the other products above do. (It will definitely clean out the gas tank, so be sure to watch your fuel filter!)

All of the chemicals on this page contain chemicals that will dissolve paint, and might even eat through some types of plastic...

 

Good to know... It's ok to leave the hose that you remove disconnected while running the MCCC through the vaccum port?

 

Sure, by disconnecting the PCV hose from that vacuum port, you render that PCV hose completely useless and dead. The entire PCV system, as far as sucking crankcase gases, is powered by that one vacuum port.

You can leave that PCV hose disconnected, and cap off that vacuum port and you'll be perfectly fine. I did that for 6 months to see what would happen and absolutely nothing changed. But I have since hooked it back up my way with a needle valve to adjust how much vacuum is pulling on that PCV hose and from the crankcase.

But leave it hooked up....I'm just saying. Having it off for the MCCC treatment will do absolutely nothing.

For what its worth...here's my PCV system below....very simple....zero oil in the intake......much better than the factory set-up in my opinion.
One breather/filter on the drivers side valve cover....then one hose sucking crankcase gases from the passengers side valve cover. Everything else capped off. Fresh air gets pulled in and across the entire engine, then evacuated through the PCV valve and intake vacuum. I haven't had a drop of oil in my intake since I did this.

.

 

So if I understand everything I read correctly, seafoam is good for cleaning out the fuel system, MCCC is the best for the topend, and Gunk works well in the crankcase?

 

Bingo.........

.

 

Awesome! Thanks for your help! I'll be doing this Saturday, and I'll try and take some pictures or a video of it.

How often do you perform the MCCC cleaning treatment? Do you use any other products like chevron techron/lucas fuel treatment/etc?

 

I've done MCCC one time maybe 1 1/2 to 2 years ago now. I'm gonna do it again, my friend gave me a can of MCCC last week.

In my opinion, 99% of everything that is sold in auto parts stores is 100% complete and useless garbage. Its all marketing crap. Very few things do even close to what they say.

.

 

You're probably right. Marketing gimmicks, etc. I have heard that MCCC does an amazing job, so I'll definitely give that a try. I only researched these additives because I want to be as gentle as possible with my 110K mile WS6. Planning on owning her the rest of my life!

Saturday should be a busy day, all new drilled/slotted rotors going on, taking calipers off for paint, bleed brakes, put it all together, then MCC treatment. Hopefully get a spirited drive in by Sunday!

 

Most important thing with the MCCC treatment is: after you let it sit for a couple hours and you start it for the first time...DO NOT rev it up high or fast, at all. While you are sitting there letting the engine warm up little gradual 2,000 rpm increases are ok. Then when you go drive it DO NOT get on it at all till you are 100% sure that all the MCCC is out of the engine and has burned off the plugs. Take the car up to 60mph or so very slowly and casually. Then back down, then do it again up to 80mph slowly. If at any time you feel/hear missing, come off the gas and let the car slow down again. Do this repeatedly until you have a completely smooth acceleration all the way up to 80mph....no missing or hesitation. THEN...you can do a WOT run. And if its smooth but still smoking AT ALL....don't do the WOT till the smoke is completely stopped also.

WOT missing/hesitation can damage your engine and in a bad case totally take it out.

Also, get the engine up to operating temp before doing the MCCC.

.

 

Sounds like good advice, which is totally different from the instructions I read on here somewhere, saying to take it to 4500 rpm right away after the soak in period.

 

I never read that in a post on this site....if so, its just a terrible idea. A miss at high rpm's can at minimum blow a head gasket, but if there's still more of the chemical in there burning off and causes a hot spot and you detonate you can literally lose the engine (crush a rod bearing and bye, bye).

Its just good to take it easy till your sure its all clear and your acceleration is smooth.

.

 

LS- I noticed your car has the LS6 intake with no air/egr....The procedures for doing the MCCC don't change on a stock LS1 intake, do they? I was looking at mine this weekend while doing the axle seal and it looks like the pcv valve plugs right into the intake... Weird damn design if you ask me. I haven't ran it through yet, and when I do I'll be putting a new AC Delco fuel filter on 3K miles afterwards.

 

LS6427 has some very good insight. As far as BG44K, it is definitely a great product. I just used some this week and like others have said, it may not be a bad idea to swap out that fuel filter

 

I myself would not put in any of those strong chemicals into my engine. As a tech at the dealer we don't use them unless certain cars which are not any that would apply to this site have collapsed lifters. Cadillac CTS with the 3.6 being a common culprit for this. After putting these chemicals in any way other than the chemicals you put in the gas tank with a full tank of gas the engine always knocks, pings, and smokes. There should be many people on this site that have pulled their heads and I would be surprised to see anything on a LS1 other than light carbon on top of pistons which is normal and inevitable on every engine.

 

i work for porsche and we have carbon build up problems with direct fuel injected cars and we use the gm top engine cleaner or mccc what ever dealer will give us a deal and yes i did a test at work to see

First step remove intake i took a picture of the intake valves
reinstalled and dumped gm top engine cleaner into a fuel service kit i have pressurized the can to 60 psi and found an vacumm line started car and injected solution into intake tract

step two removed intake again and dam that **** looked great we had great sucess wih both i have personally seen it

when you get DONE TAKE THE CAR OUT AND RUN THE **** OUT OF IT FOR 5 MINUTES THIS WILL HELP BLOW THE CARBON DEPOSITS OUT OF THE CYLINDER AND ANYTHING THAT WILL HAS BECOME DISLOGED FROM VALVES OR COMBUSTION CHAMBER

 

Can you post more pics of your PCV system? I am thinking about doing what you have done, to my SS...to prevent the oil from getting to the intake.

 

First pic.....line with needle valve to regulate suction strength and the new style PCV valve. You see the valley cover port is capped.....its not, its like you see it in the third pic.

Second pic.......air filter on the drivers side valve cover. Its a fuel filter.

Third pic.....same filter on the valley cover port.

Fourth and fifth pic.......parts I bought for the drivers side valve cover filter to mate up with the grommet that fits into the drivers side valve cover hole. The valley cover one I used 3/8" heater hose and some other little piece I had laying around that fit perfectly.

Its been this way for years...........never a drop of water found in the oil and not even a trace of oil ever in my intake when I check from time to time.


......thats about all I have, pretty basic set up.

.

 

What happens if you seafoam and didn't read the part where it says change the fuel filter. Could that be a factor why I have s&^% gas mileage?

 

i run Redline SL1