May 10, 2016, 02:33 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
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Window regulator and glass removal
Window regulator and glass removal I've search all day on here and the internet in general and cannot find a 'how to' for removing the door window glass and regulator components. I've seen write ups on replacing the window motor, but none of those involve removing the actual glass.
My window guide roller is on the verge of snapping off and I want to remove those pieces so I can fix the window guide roller.
Does anyone have any advice on removing the glass and regulator???
Thanks
My window guide roller is on the verge of snapping off and I want to remove those pieces so I can fix the window guide roller.
Does anyone have any advice on removing the glass and regulator???
Thanks
I've been searching online all day. I’m attaching a few things to show what is wrong with my window…..
If you go to this website, there is a video linked of the operation of the window motor/regulator
http://shbox.com/1/window_regulator2.wmv
In the video, on the right hand side, there is a vertical silver track. A guide roller goes up and down within that track. If you look in the video, a lot of the window weight is supported by this track. The way this roller is fixed to the window regulator is via a small rivet type fastener that goes through the thin steel regulator. See below…
DSCN4187CASCSS.jpg?t=1298943389
This piece passes through this piece of metal which is the silver horizontal piece in the video that holds the actual window….
DSCN4186CASCSS.jpg?t=1298943389
As you can see, it is prone to failure over the years. They don’t make new ones from what I have found online and through various suppliers. The actual roller isn’t bad, it’s the means by which it is fastened to this steel regulator piece above. So I am stuck with a semi broken window and no idea how to repair it.
This shows how the horizontal piece is riveted to the glass...
DSCF7630_paint1.jpg?t=1298943448
The only idea I have come up with is to drill/tap the end of the window guide roller and use a small bolt and lock washer to fasten the roller. Add to that some fender washers on either side of this thin piece of metal to add some rigidity. Maybe some welding could take place.
That horizontal piece needs to removed and the rivets need to accomplish this...
window001.jpg?t=1298943494
window002.jpg?t=1298943494
So drilling the rivets out will remove the glass, then I guess I need to get the whole regulator and track pieces out somehow. I am hoping I don't need to remove the window motor to accomplish this.
If you go to this website, there is a video linked of the operation of the window motor/regulator
http://shbox.com/1/window_regulator2.wmv
In the video, on the right hand side, there is a vertical silver track. A guide roller goes up and down within that track. If you look in the video, a lot of the window weight is supported by this track. The way this roller is fixed to the window regulator is via a small rivet type fastener that goes through the thin steel regulator. See below…
DSCN4187CASCSS.jpg?t=1298943389
This piece passes through this piece of metal which is the silver horizontal piece in the video that holds the actual window….
DSCN4186CASCSS.jpg?t=1298943389
As you can see, it is prone to failure over the years. They don’t make new ones from what I have found online and through various suppliers. The actual roller isn’t bad, it’s the means by which it is fastened to this steel regulator piece above. So I am stuck with a semi broken window and no idea how to repair it.
This shows how the horizontal piece is riveted to the glass...
DSCF7630_paint1.jpg?t=1298943448
The only idea I have come up with is to drill/tap the end of the window guide roller and use a small bolt and lock washer to fasten the roller. Add to that some fender washers on either side of this thin piece of metal to add some rigidity. Maybe some welding could take place.
That horizontal piece needs to removed and the rivets need to accomplish this...
window001.jpg?t=1298943494
window002.jpg?t=1298943494
So drilling the rivets out will remove the glass, then I guess I need to get the whole regulator and track pieces out somehow. I am hoping I don't need to remove the window motor to accomplish this.
I just welded the broken part with the window in the car. I had to cut a small section of the inner door panel off to get at the roller/guide properly with the welder. Seems to be holding up well.
Be careful not to weld too long and melt the plastic roller/guide.
Be careful not to weld too long and melt the plastic roller/guide.
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Teching In
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Calgary Alberta Canada
Ok thread bump.....just found that my guide roller on the window bracket popped out too. I'm guessing if i wanted to get this welded proper like also in the back of the roller I'd have to take out the glass with the bracket still on.
But wouldn't i also have to pull the regulator out too ? That's how its looking to me and i don't wanna have to mess with the regulator mount rivets as mine are still in good shape and not getting messed up.
But wouldn't i also have to pull the regulator out too ? That's how its looking to me and i don't wanna have to mess with the regulator mount rivets as mine are still in good shape and not getting messed up.
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Verdad Gallardo Teching In
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Calgary Alberta Canada
Well i guess it all has too come out, just found a good write up on it on camaro5 forum. Well I'm gonna try a local glass shop that i heard has quite a few old farts there and see if they have a easier fix for this. Do still post any ideas i know you can tack weld it but also read of successful drill and tapping and using a bolt. I'm kicking around using JB Weld.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 1
The roller broke on my driver's side window a few weeks ago.
My solution is shown in the photo below.
I just purchased a new ball stud with threaded end and a NOS roller (Dorman # 74408) on Ebay from two different sellers. I could use the original roller but why not use the new roller. I also have a second ball stud and roller for the passenger side window when that breaks. The Dorman 74408 rollers have been discontinued. I has lucky to find two on Ebay.
1. Grind off about 1/16" from the ball on the new ball stud for clearance purposes.
2. Enlarge the hole in the window support with a 5/16" drill bit to install the new ball stud (10 mm ball, 5/16"-18 threads, overall length = 1.41") with 2 lock-type 5/16"-18 nuts. I might also use some lock-tite.
I plan to do this tomorrow.
Removing the original black roller from the original ball stud was not that easy. I used a heat gun, vice grips, and a ball joint tool (2-prong fork). The roller melted just a bit but still can be reused.
My solution is shown in the photo below.
I just purchased a new ball stud with threaded end and a NOS roller (Dorman # 74408) on Ebay from two different sellers. I could use the original roller but why not use the new roller. I also have a second ball stud and roller for the passenger side window when that breaks. The Dorman 74408 rollers have been discontinued. I has lucky to find two on Ebay.
1. Grind off about 1/16" from the ball on the new ball stud for clearance purposes.
2. Enlarge the hole in the window support with a 5/16" drill bit to install the new ball stud (10 mm ball, 5/16"-18 threads, overall length = 1.41") with 2 lock-type 5/16"-18 nuts. I might also use some lock-tite.
I plan to do this tomorrow.
Removing the original black roller from the original ball stud was not that easy. I used a heat gun, vice grips, and a ball joint tool (2-prong fork). The roller melted just a bit but still can be reused.
Last edited by DCL-1970; Nov 16, 2012 at 11:18 PM.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 1
I installed my new "modified" ball stud and NOS roller. I used a 5/16" fender washer (trimmed on the right edge as shown in the photos) to add more contact area because the hole was damaged. A chunk of metal had broken off from the window bracket so the hole was basically a slot open at the bottom end. I also used lock-tite. The window now works great.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
From: Crestwood, Il
Drill and tap I've been searching online all day. I’m attaching a few things to show what is wrong with my window…..
If you go to this website, there is a video linked of the operation of the window motor/regulator
http://shbox.com/1/window_regulator2.wmv
In the video, on the right hand side, there is a vertical silver track. A guide roller goes up and down within that track. If you look in the video, a lot of the window weight is supported by this track. The way this roller is fixed to the window regulator is via a small rivet type fastener that goes through the thin steel regulator. See below…
This piece passes through this piece of metal which is the silver horizontal piece in the video that holds the actual window….
As you can see, it is prone to failure over the years. They don’t make new ones from what I have found online and through various suppliers. The actual roller isn’t bad, it’s the means by which it is fastened to this steel regulator piece above. So I am stuck with a semi broken window and no idea how to repair it.
This shows how the horizontal piece is riveted to the glass...
The only idea I have come up with is to drill/tap the end of the window guide roller and use a small bolt and lock washer to fasten the roller. Add to that some fender washers on either side of this thin piece of metal to add some rigidity. Maybe some welding could take place.
That horizontal piece needs to removed and the rivets need to accomplish this...
So drilling the rivets out will remove the glass, then I guess I need to get the whole regulator and track pieces out somehow. I am hoping I don't need to remove the window motor to accomplish this.
If you go to this website, there is a video linked of the operation of the window motor/regulator
http://shbox.com/1/window_regulator2.wmv
In the video, on the right hand side, there is a vertical silver track. A guide roller goes up and down within that track. If you look in the video, a lot of the window weight is supported by this track. The way this roller is fixed to the window regulator is via a small rivet type fastener that goes through the thin steel regulator. See below…
This piece passes through this piece of metal which is the silver horizontal piece in the video that holds the actual window….
As you can see, it is prone to failure over the years. They don’t make new ones from what I have found online and through various suppliers. The actual roller isn’t bad, it’s the means by which it is fastened to this steel regulator piece above. So I am stuck with a semi broken window and no idea how to repair it.
This shows how the horizontal piece is riveted to the glass...
The only idea I have come up with is to drill/tap the end of the window guide roller and use a small bolt and lock washer to fasten the roller. Add to that some fender washers on either side of this thin piece of metal to add some rigidity. Maybe some welding could take place.
That horizontal piece needs to removed and the rivets need to accomplish this...
So drilling the rivets out will remove the glass, then I guess I need to get the whole regulator and track pieces out somehow. I am hoping I don't need to remove the window motor to accomplish this.
Thanks
Well guys, I came across this thread a little late, already pulled my damn regulator out and there is probably nothing wrong with it.
But I want to go with the drill and tap the stock roller path.
This is what I'm looking at right now, should I cut off the raised part or leave it as it is and just add double washers?
But I want to go with the drill and tap the stock roller path.
This is what I'm looking at right now, should I cut off the raised part or leave it as it is and just add double washers?
Got a local muffler shop friend to weld it, didn't want to put my faith in a screw and washers. Installed the new regulator as well, seems to be working fine now.
FYI you can fix this without a new regulator so don't be a fool like me and take yours out when this is the problem.
FYI you can fix this without a new regulator so don't be a fool like me and take yours out when this is the problem.
I installed my new "modified" ball stud and NOS roller. I used a 5/16" fender washer (trimmed on the right edge as shown in the photos) to add more contact area because the hole was damaged. A chunk of metal had broken off from the window bracket so the hole was basically a slot open at the bottom end. I also used lock-tite. The window now works great.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 407
Likes: 2
From: Keller Tx
I went the welded route too. It lasted for a about 18 months.
I think my regulator was a little tweaked so it put a lot of undo pressure in the roller.
Anyway I went to a salvage yard bought a window with the bottom channel and put in a new regulator while I was in there.
I think my regulator was a little tweaked so it put a lot of undo pressure in the roller.
Anyway I went to a salvage yard bought a window with the bottom channel and put in a new regulator while I was in there.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: St Louis, MO
Same issue I'm having to replace the whole damn window because the part is discontinued, which is f'd up considering all the window issues for these cars. Im going to explore my selling options after this. I can't take these constant headaches anymore. I love the car but damn.
this hopefully will fix my situation. i have the same problem of how it would slide forward when i brake and slide back when i accelerate. but also it doesnt go up all the way. stops about a 1/4 inch before the top. my regulator is also missing lie 3 out of 4 bolts that hold it to the door. what a nightmare.
commented on this thread so i can find it in my recent comments in my profile.
commented on this thread so i can find it in my recent comments in my profile.
