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Window regulator and glass removal
#21
Thread bump! I'm installing New glass right now with the regulator in the door. So it's a lot of fun getting those little rollers to line up into the bottom of the window. One in now. 2 more to go.
#22
Good luck.
#23
thank you sir. that helped. now my only issue is even with the rivets in when I put the
window up and down I can see the rivets wiggle. then one fell out. if youre looking at the regulator its the top left rivet. they are 1/4 inch rivets with a hand riverter from harbor freight. the $20 one that's blue. actually a nice tool. im gonna try another one but if it fails im assuming I might need a plate cut and in place.
window up and down I can see the rivets wiggle. then one fell out. if youre looking at the regulator its the top left rivet. they are 1/4 inch rivets with a hand riverter from harbor freight. the $20 one that's blue. actually a nice tool. im gonna try another one but if it fails im assuming I might need a plate cut and in place.
#24
thank you sir. that helped. now my only issue is even with the rivets in when I put the
window up and down I can see the rivets wiggle. then one fell out. if youre looking at the regulator its the top left rivet. they are 1/4 inch rivets with a hand riverter from harbor freight. the $20 one that's blue. actually a nice tool. im gonna try another one but if it fails im assuming I might need a plate cut and in place.
window up and down I can see the rivets wiggle. then one fell out. if youre looking at the regulator its the top left rivet. they are 1/4 inch rivets with a hand riverter from harbor freight. the $20 one that's blue. actually a nice tool. im gonna try another one but if it fails im assuming I might need a plate cut and in place.
If it was the first rivet you installed because the regulator wasn't aligned this can be an issue but should beable to fix it. If it still doesn't work - show us a photo of the hole. I would probably just go with epoxy and a washer.
#25
ill get pictures for you. the bottom left rivet location was loose so I just popped it out.
I bought the rivets from gm but they are different than the harbor freight ones so my riverter doesn't work with them. they have a threaded stud on one end. ill get pictures and the part number when I get home. probably post tomorrow since im off work. the 2 other rivets I installed are holding great. which are located to the right when looking at the the inside driver door.
I bought the rivets from gm but they are different than the harbor freight ones so my riverter doesn't work with them. they have a threaded stud on one end. ill get pictures and the part number when I get home. probably post tomorrow since im off work. the 2 other rivets I installed are holding great. which are located to the right when looking at the the inside driver door.
#26
been following this thread. i have my drivers door all apart to remove the window regulator and motor. the motor was "fine" - i guess. it was what I called on "hyper-drive". it would roll down 2x faster than the passenger side. and it was "choppy" on the way down. when the window would reach the bottom, it acted like it kept wanting to go down more and you could watch the inside door skin "bulge". lots of stress.
anyway, looking at the inside of the door, my upper left rivet hole was a bit stretched. the others were fine. I was also missing the rubber block inside the door that the window rests on in the full down position.
i got a new rubber, placed it and operated the window (still with old regulator and motor) and the door still bulged.
anyway, due to cold temperatures and no time i have not reassembled.
I made a metal plate to go over all the holes, and i plan on filling out the stretched hole with JB weld and re-drilling a new hole.
I have the proper GM rivets and bought the proper river gun. tonight i plan on using the JB weld and letting it cure. tomorrow night i'll attempt reassembly. and re-grease all the tracks.
funny thing about the window motor and regulator i bought, there is no hook built into it to hang on the door. might be a PITA to get all my holes lines up. thank goodness I have teenage kids to help me out. lol
i'll post pics of my repairs.
BTW - this wasnt the first time this was repaired. there were metal shaving still in the door bottom and the motor was bolted to the regulator. - i'll show pics of that too.
anyway, looking at the inside of the door, my upper left rivet hole was a bit stretched. the others were fine. I was also missing the rubber block inside the door that the window rests on in the full down position.
i got a new rubber, placed it and operated the window (still with old regulator and motor) and the door still bulged.
anyway, due to cold temperatures and no time i have not reassembled.
I made a metal plate to go over all the holes, and i plan on filling out the stretched hole with JB weld and re-drilling a new hole.
I have the proper GM rivets and bought the proper river gun. tonight i plan on using the JB weld and letting it cure. tomorrow night i'll attempt reassembly. and re-grease all the tracks.
funny thing about the window motor and regulator i bought, there is no hook built into it to hang on the door. might be a PITA to get all my holes lines up. thank goodness I have teenage kids to help me out. lol
i'll post pics of my repairs.
BTW - this wasnt the first time this was repaired. there were metal shaving still in the door bottom and the motor was bolted to the regulator. - i'll show pics of that too.
#27
been following this thread. i have my drivers door all apart to remove the window regulator and motor. the motor was "fine" - i guess. it was what I called on "hyper-drive". it would roll down 2x faster than the passenger side. and it was "choppy" on the way down. when the window would reach the bottom, it acted like it kept wanting to go down more and you could watch the inside door skin "bulge". lots of stress.
anyway, looking at the inside of the door, my upper left rivet hole was a bit stretched. the others were fine. I was also missing the rubber block inside the door that the window rests on in the full down position.
i got a new rubber, placed it and operated the window (still with old regulator and motor) and the door still bulged.
anyway, due to cold temperatures and no time i have not reassembled.
I made a metal plate to go over all the holes, and i plan on filling out the stretched hole with JB weld and re-drilling a new hole.
I have the proper GM rivets and bought the proper river gun. tonight i plan on using the JB weld and letting it cure. tomorrow night i'll attempt reassembly. and re-grease all the tracks.
funny thing about the window motor and regulator i bought, there is no hook built into it to hang on the door. might be a PITA to get all my holes lines up. thank goodness I have teenage kids to help me out. lol
i'll post pics of my repairs.
BTW - this wasnt the first time this was repaired. there were metal shaving still in the door bottom and the motor was bolted to the regulator. - i'll show pics of that too.
anyway, looking at the inside of the door, my upper left rivet hole was a bit stretched. the others were fine. I was also missing the rubber block inside the door that the window rests on in the full down position.
i got a new rubber, placed it and operated the window (still with old regulator and motor) and the door still bulged.
anyway, due to cold temperatures and no time i have not reassembled.
I made a metal plate to go over all the holes, and i plan on filling out the stretched hole with JB weld and re-drilling a new hole.
I have the proper GM rivets and bought the proper river gun. tonight i plan on using the JB weld and letting it cure. tomorrow night i'll attempt reassembly. and re-grease all the tracks.
funny thing about the window motor and regulator i bought, there is no hook built into it to hang on the door. might be a PITA to get all my holes lines up. thank goodness I have teenage kids to help me out. lol
i'll post pics of my repairs.
BTW - this wasnt the first time this was repaired. there were metal shaving still in the door bottom and the motor was bolted to the regulator. - i'll show pics of that too.
#28
It may be normal, not sure. I was pretty busy this weekend. I got all the repairs done and I will be mounting the regulator after work. hopefully tomorrow i can post pictures of my repair.
#29
#30
i bought mine from Amazon. damn thing broke on me. worked for 2 rivets and now it wont grab any rivets. played for an hour with it and no luck. I think the jaws are stripped. and i cant return them because i have had the things for over 30 days
i WAS gonna go to harbor freight after work and pick up some other ones. is this the one you have from HF?
17-1/2 In Heavy Duty Hand Riveter Set With Collection Bottle
i WAS gonna go to harbor freight after work and pick up some other ones. is this the one you have from HF?
17-1/2 In Heavy Duty Hand Riveter Set With Collection Bottle
#31
well, picked up the above shown riveter from HF. it worked great. got it all back together and all works well. i need to adjust the rear view mirror applique and i am all set.
forgot to take pictures of the repair, but all i did was make a template using paper and punched out all the holes, then transferred that to a piece of sheet metal, and drilled out the holes needed.
i then put tape on the back side of the door covering the regulator holes and proceeded to fill all 4 holes with JB weld. once dried i sanded smoothed.
put my template back on and re-drilled my new holes. then JB epoxied fender washers over the holes.
once dried - slide the regulator/motor into the door and put the rollers in the proper channels and then riveted regulator to the door.
was a beeotch and i have a few slices on the hands to prove it, but finally got it done. hopefully never have to do that again.
forgot to take pictures of the repair, but all i did was make a template using paper and punched out all the holes, then transferred that to a piece of sheet metal, and drilled out the holes needed.
i then put tape on the back side of the door covering the regulator holes and proceeded to fill all 4 holes with JB weld. once dried i sanded smoothed.
put my template back on and re-drilled my new holes. then JB epoxied fender washers over the holes.
once dried - slide the regulator/motor into the door and put the rollers in the proper channels and then riveted regulator to the door.
was a beeotch and i have a few slices on the hands to prove it, but finally got it done. hopefully never have to do that again.
#32
Teching In
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 38
Likes: 9
From: The Firebird spent most of it's live through the winters of Indiana. Now in D.C.
Well guys, I came across this thread a little late, already pulled my damn regulator out and there is probably nothing wrong with it.
But I want to go with the drill and tap the stock roller path.
This is what I'm looking at right now, should I cut off the raised part or leave it as it is and just add double washers?
Attachment 607783
But I want to go with the drill and tap the stock roller path.
This is what I'm looking at right now, should I cut off the raised part or leave it as it is and just add double washers?
Attachment 607783
EDITED:
Nevermind, I just seen your post about taking it into the repair shop to be welded. I may go with that, too.
Last edited by BimRon; 02-21-2022 at 08:20 PM. Reason: I just seen you answered this question in a later post.