jerky weak acceleration but no codes
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Southport NC
jerky weak acceleration but no codes The car seems to drive normal and run fine until I go wot to pass someone or just for the hell of it. the acceleration is smooth and strong like it should be until I get to like 4k rpms and it starts to cut out or jerk. My plug wires look like they're still in good shape and are seated well. I have (dont flame me) E3spark plugs. Also there is no SES light on. What could be the problem, maybe a fuel injector? My plugs? How should I go about diagnosing this
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Joined: Nov 2005
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most likley the wire i had a new set on my old grand prix gtp and my step bro hit the rev limiter and it some how damaged the wire and the car would hesitate and jerk an after it did it with a new set of plugs i baught a cheap set of duralast wire and presto it was perfect and the old wires where autolite pro's and the car dident throw a code eather.
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Launching!
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Southport NC
Yea I have an oiled filter, and I have hit the rev limiter a few times on accident. I have mad plug wires that have been on the car for about 2 years I think. I do remember to clean my mad pretty regularly
Go get a can of MAF cleaner and spray the pisso it of it. Your MAF comes into play when you go WOT, if its dirty, you will misfire. And you WILL NOT get an SES light for a dirty MAF.
And while you're at the parts store, get a paper filter and put that piece of garbage oiled filter in the GARBAGE. They suck, they offer less protection for your engine...and the possible .000001 hp they give, isn't worth it.
.
And while you're at the parts store, get a paper filter and put that piece of garbage oiled filter in the GARBAGE. They suck, they offer less protection for your engine...and the possible .000001 hp they give, isn't worth it.
.
This is a good site with real comparisons on filters: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
Any one will do...I change mine every 4,000-5,000....they're too cheap not to.
Also...just so you know, any oiled filter will make your MAF dirty the first time it rains...or even after it has rained and you go for a drive. The water mist gets IMMEDIATELY all over the complete filter and the oil is reacvtivated and now it IS NOT dry anymore. What does K&N tell you to do....let it completely dry before putting back in and driving. Its because if you drive when its wet...the MAF instantly gets covered with oil. So the first time you get oil on the MAF...you have just reduced your engines WOT capability. A MAF doesn't just work 100% all the way up till its dirty....a MAF slowly gets killed over time more and more as that dirt builds up. So if you use an oiled filter....and it gets wet or just mist goes into it...you have just begun to have a car with reduced performance. It only gets worse from there. By the time people change a K&N their performance is way less than when it was just put in with a fresh clean and oil job on the filter. BUT...if they don't clean their MAF every time they clean their oiled filter....jeez, they're just killing their MAFs.
JUst something to think about that K&N will never tell you. If they advertised the truth about their filters....which is REDUCED ENGINE PROTECTION, DECREASED MAF EFFICIENCY, .0001 POWER INCREASE ONLY......they'd be out of business in a month.
*****and for the people that will tell you, "well race teams use K&N." WELL, thats because they rebuild their motors before every race. So they don't care about engine protection, they can actually use that .0001 hp......I guess.
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Last edited by LS6427; Mar 8, 2011 at 06:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Southport NC
I think cleaning the maf did the trick! However another thing that I've noticed recently on cold starts the car runs like crap for a minute, it sounds like its misfiring real bad but again no SES light. After a minute or so it runs normal again. So should I go ahead and ditch the E3 spark plugs and go back to TR55's? Also my MSD wires are about 2 years old and probably have 20,000 or more miles on them, time to replace?
Try taking it for a long drive on a highway for the PCM to re-learn the sensor settings and see if it still happens. Your fuel mixture could be off.
If it still happens after that, it could be another sensor issue that is dominant when the car is running cold. (Once it gets up to temperature, the car calculates things differently.)
If it still happens after that, it could be another sensor issue that is dominant when the car is running cold. (Once it gets up to temperature, the car calculates things differently.)
