Without that sensor, the car will not "know" when its up to operating temperature. You can read this really good article on how they work: http://www.wellsve.com/sft503/counterp_v2_i2_1998.pdf

 

Thanks for the info, that was a good read. So I guess by that you're saying that there is not a separate sensor for the PCM.

 

Without ECT, the PCM will see something like -39°F (i.e. subfreezing) which will cause it run extra fuel and extra timing (i.e. references the tables incorrectly)... and it will not go into Close Loop.

 

I broke mine a while ago, one pin is for the temp guage if its not hooked up your temp guage will be at 0. the other pin is for the PCM and if its not connected, your car will run like ****.

 

Ok thanks, that makes sense. I'll see if I can get it at auto zone.

 

I'm pretty sure its one in the same. The gauge shows a different reading than the PCM but I understand the circuitry for that is in the gauge panel. (Not done with a separate sensor.)

 

Yea according to the post above its one sensor. I must have read wrong on another thread.

 

Got the sensor from the parts store so now I just need to put it in.

On a side note, anyone have a trick to getting the pass side rear coil pack bracket bolt out? I was able to do the plugs without moving it since I could get a grab on it, but I want to pull it off when I start cleaning up the engine bay. I tried everything from swivel sockets to ratchet wrenches and just couldn't get the f*cker.

 

That @#*# bolt needs to go!!! Once you do manage to get it out, do NOT put it back!! You would be amazed at how many of these cars are running around with it missing...

Some vehicles do indeed use two different temp sensors. One for the gauge, one for the ECM. This one does not. It uses one for both.

Keep in mind when you change your temp sensor, you will be opening the cooling system. Now, if you are really fast, have your new sensor all ready to install with pipe dope already on the threads, you can do this without draining the cooling system. Just wait until the car is completely cooled down (over night is preferred), leave the radiator cap in place, DO NOT LOOSEN, then very quickly unscrew the old sensor and screw in the new one. You will lose very little coolant. Very little. Plus, you have a vent right there in the cylinder head, so it should bleed very easily. These are not pipe thread fittings. They are a 12mm X 1.5 thread that take a washer and pipe dope on the threads. Good luck!

 

Yea tell me about it. Once that bolt comes out its never going back in! I just cant figure out how to get a grip on it. I'll get to it one of these days.

The coolant sensor I haven't attempted yet, but I'll take your advice when I do, thanks!

 

I only use 2 bolts for each coil bracket, thats all you honestly need. One in the front & one in the middle is plenty & make removal a very easy task.

 

I've never removed them since I owned the car so the back one is still in. My problem is getting it out the first time.

 

My son did mine. He wouldn't speak to me for a week...