Like everyone else in the F-Body community I've had to replace my windows motors. When doing this I replaced the stock rivets with 1/4-20 screws. After a while those screws started wearing out the holes they were in and the motor itself starts moving in the door.

Here you can see how bad my friend's SS was.


I tried using fender washers to distribute the load on my car, but that didn't work. So I came up with a better idea. I have done this to my friends SS and my car, and it works great.

What I designed was a plate to go in the door that the motor / regulator bolt to. This way, with all 4 bolts going through the same plate, the force of the motor is distributed through the whole part instead of the individual bolt. So now the bolts won't strip out the door panel. Here's how you do it.

First off, download and print this PDF File full scale.
http://www.mediafire.com/?2htzbpbbwikbrva

Then get some 16 AWG steel and transfer the template to it.


Cut two out (they're the same for both doors, just mirrored). I used a jig-saw w/ a metal blade, and shoot it with a few coats of primer to seal it from rusting out in the event it gets any moisture on it.


Remove the bolts you have in there now, or if you're doing this for the first time, drill out the stock rivets. Then get yourself some 1/4-20 3/4" bolts and serrated nuts. I suppose you can use washers if you like, I didn't. First off you have to bend the little lock tab on the regulator straight; otherwise it won't clear the new piece of metal. Then put the bolts in from the backside, slide the plate on, put the nuts on, and tighten everything up. It's a lot harder than it sounds so be prepared to spend some time rummaging around inside the door and putting the window up and down a few hundred times. Once everything is in and tightened up, take a hammer and (as gently as you can) pound that tab on the regulator back down onto the new metal piece.

When you're done you'll have something that looks like this!



Congrats!! Your window motor is finally secure in it's place. You may have to adjust your window after doing this. I had to tweak my drivers side, but my passenger side didn't change at all.

 

I couldn't tell you how many times I've messed up my hand by replacing these stupid window motors.

 

Subscribed. My passenger side is doing a number on the fiberglass.

 

Great idea, When i bought my TA, my passenger window did not work at all. I took the motor out and did the thermal bypass mod. And now it is faster then the driver side window!

 

PERFECT!!! All my holes got "ovaled out" by the motors torque (and the serrated washer eating the firerglass) and now the window sits low...... well, until I rigged it with 8 giant zip ties, lol.

Here's my question... think your panel will work if ALL the holes are ovaled? The whole unit might sit lower and I'd be back to square one, right?

 

Lol at Sommer!!!!! Zip ties really??????? Of all the things you and 6LE come up with and then you use zip ties?????? Can I really even begin to bust your ***** when I myself used zipties two weeks ago to secure my window motor as well..... Haha. Great minds think a like, worked like a charm for me!!!!! Won't be messin' with it until my/our genius zipties fail! Good work sir. OP good job, and if all the holes are ovaled you could always secure the motor to the metal plate, then create some new holes to secure the plate to the door in new locations, ie 8 bolts and nuts, four original location, four new location to secure plate to door...

 

I saw someone a while ago make something similar, but what he did was use some epoxy-type glue to bond the plate to the door. The glue resisted the shearing forces pretty well since it was clamped in there pretty good already by the bolts.

Personally, I think the best way to replace the window motor is via shoebox's method. Doesn't screw with the original rivets, so less likely to have issues with the regulator tearing up the door.

 

Nice write-up.

I did something similar a while back, except I made a smaller aluminum bracket and drilled new holes through the door and metal fame that holds the motor:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/4147168-post19.html

 

Wait, are you installing/did install a new regulator with your window motor? I replaced JUST my motors via drilling access holes in the door panel to drill out the 3 rivets that hold the motor to the regulator. Replaced just the motor with lifetime warrantied motors from Autozone and used bolts instead of the cheap screws in the kit. Using lock washers the 3 bolts are tight, never move, and my regulator never eggs out any holes in the door.

I mean if you have to replace a regulator this looks like a good thing to do BUT if it's just the motor (probably 90% of us) that's bad then just replacing the motor looks to be the same amount of work with fewer side effects...

ETA: I didn't read all the post to see you did the regulator. I would say just as a warning to all those fixing to replace their motors: don't touch the regulator unless you have too. Use the method that drills access holes and deals with just the motor

 

Both motors have been replaced. I wasn't having a problem with the windows not going up or down, my problem was when moving the window the motor would actually move around in it's mounting holes. This fixes that problem.

 

I found that the 100% scale was way too big. I converted it to a .dxf file for the local sheet metal company and it was closer to the proper scale but the hole for the clip isn't in the proper place or it's size is off. I tried to fit the sheet metal to the regulator and the rivets holes are right on the money but the hanger clip was off a little. I haven't took the door panel off yet but I'll be doing it this weekend... I hope.

 

who takes out the regulator to do the window motor???

 

Someone who has to also replace their regulator.

 

I just did this mod and worked beautifully!! I had to widen the center hole a little for the hook but no big deal. Now my window roles all the way up and seals. Lotus 289 your the man!!

 

Will this work with aluminum instead of steel?

 

aluminum will work just fine

 

I did the same repair, before I found this thread. The only difference was I used some construction compound, (liquid nails caulking compound) and I added 4 screws to the plate through the door. I have not had much of a chance to test, time will tell. But it sure does not move now.

 

I recently changed out the window motors in my 02 camaro and the passenger side still doesn't work,the fuses are fine and i just bought a new switch and that wasn't it either either. When i plug my drivers side window switch to the passenger side the lock will close when i hit the button but still don't get anything from the window switch.Any suggestions?

 

Would anyone be willing to make these and ship them out?

 

hey man I have the exact same issue ever figure it out?