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Old May 14, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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Default really low idle

accidentally posted this in the external section... so usually my idle is around 900 when cold and down to 600 when warmed up. lately though, last 2 days when cold started or even semi-cold it barely even runs, maybe 200 rpm and has even died once. idle seems to return to 5-600 once warm though... any thoughts why this might be?
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Old May 14, 2011 | 10:54 AM
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O2 sensors going bad. Throwing any codes?
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Old May 14, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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No codes but when I bought the car it had an o2 code and I reset it cuz there wasn't a problem. If that's the issue then that's an easy fix
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Old May 15, 2011 | 06:33 AM
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See if your PCV system or valve is blocked.
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Old May 16, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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I experienced the same thing when leaving work today. 300-400rpm, took several seconds to stabilize. Drove normal, but only idled normal after about a mile of driving. It's a 2000 SS Convertible M6, stock, with CA emissions .
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Old May 16, 2011 | 10:23 PM
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Just swapped the PCV valve ($1.99). The old one was gummed up entirely. Will see how that changes things. The car felt better with the new valve.
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Old May 16, 2011 | 11:02 PM
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check your iac, maf, and tps first. if it's not those, then look at the o2's if there isn't a check engine light on.
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Old May 17, 2011 | 08:10 AM
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I had a strange low idle problem on my old LS1 car when I killed the battery once (using the car as a stereo at a cookout, lost track of time)...when I got the car to jump start, it couldn't hold an idle above 300-400 RPM to save itself, and that also wasn't enough RPM for the alternator to charge the battery...I had to take the car up and down the highway 20-30 miles to get a half decent charge into the battery, then it idled perfectly fine again.

So...it might be worth checking your battery and alternator and any grounds in the car, especially the ones for the PCM and the engine...all the sensors and the injectors and coils ground through them.
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Old May 17, 2011 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike454SS
I had a strange low idle problem on my old LS1 car when I killed the battery once.
You have to do the "idle re-learn" procedure when the battery is disconnected or dies. Turn on the ignition for 5 seconds (don't start the car), turn off the ignition for 5 seconds, start the car.
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Old May 19, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Gunn
You have to do the "idle re-learn" procedure when the battery is disconnected or dies. Turn on the ignition for 5 seconds (don't start the car), turn off the ignition for 5 seconds, start the car.
I'm aware of that, however, it was dead to the point where I couldn't restart it, and it wanted to stall when I took the jump pack off unless I had it revving high enough for the alternator to charge...so I HAD to drive it first to charge the battery enough to do that. I forgot to mention that I did do that after driving it a bit. My mistake.
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Old May 20, 2011 | 11:47 AM
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Thanks for all the advice
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Old May 22, 2011 | 08:57 AM
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My car did this about a month or so ago. Would barely idle and sometimes wouldn't even start. Changed out my IAC and is now back to perfect. Here's the one I bought:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._993335056____

Takes a whole 5 minutes to change, but takes a whole $130 outta the wallet, lol.
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Old May 23, 2011 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by snake_skinner93
My car did this about a month or so ago. Would barely idle and sometimes wouldn't even start. Changed out my IAC and is now back to perfect. Here's the one I bought:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._993335056____

Takes a whole 5 minutes to change, but takes a whole $130 outta the wallet, lol.
You can buy a Delphi from rock auto for 70, or an AC Delco for 99...usually when they stick though, you can just clean the carbon off of them, make sure the o-ring sealing it to the housing is ok, and put it back in...they are very rarely ever actually broken.
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