I fixed mine this morning after I hauled it back home last night. It was the ignition/lock cylinder that others have had problems with. I bypassed it via the resistor method under the dash. Everything is back to normal now. I will fix it the right way one of these days by replacing the cylinder.

 

I have a 2001 camaro 3800 and my security light is flashing. I had no warning at all just the battery was dead. I put a brand new battery in it and the security light is still flashing when key is on all the lights comes on at first click of switch when I turn it all the way dash lights goes out except ces light and the security light keeps flashing.AFTER i release the key dash lights comes back on.Any Ideas?

 

Rowdy,
I just went thru this. It was one of the vats wires to the ignition cylinder had broke. I think my vats was disabled at one point (but not tuned out). Even with it disabled, this wiring break sent the car into default vats status (I.e. theft).
Parts price was zero...labor was getting the steering wheel off and broken down to the ignition cylinder to solder a wire back together

 

Rowdydog, obviously you have been researching the fix and came upon this site, that is a good thing, I'm sure you have an idea how to fix now. It is a simple fix but requires a little bit of knowledge of voltmeter, or a little bit of nerves to walk into a radio shack and ask them to measure the resistor pellet on your key. Once you or they measure the key, make a note of it, then buy a pack of assorted resistors. String a few together until you have the same resistor value (maybe they can help). I'd solder them together, but you just have to twist them together and electrical tape them. Now follow instructions in the following vids to install the VATS bypass resistors. This needs to be done anyway to older GM cars, even if it isn't your total problem. Don't take it to dealer for expensive repair and hold off on taking ignition apart until you see if this works. PM me if you have any questions.

 

my brother "HAD" the same problem, he got stuck at fuel station and just called my father to get em.
fixed the car in less than 10 mins.

i disconnected the battery both nodes (+ & -)
to make the computer reset
i noticed turning the key won't do ANYTHING
its like you did nothing
so, i started beating the hell out of the steering wheel and pulling it left & right up & down and when i pulled it to the left and turned the key... it worked.

 

Nice! temporary fix! So many people I know have been stuck in a GM car, due to car key pellet worn down, INCLUDING ME!!! Can you imagine our wives, girlfriends or daughters getting stuck in a rough spot because their freakin GM key won't work??? this should have been a recall issue, is flat out dangerous and I'm sure has lead to robbery, or even death of an unfortunate driver. First thing I'd do when buying a used GM car is bypass the VATS!

 

Actually both my brother and i like the fact that its soo screwed up yet still works .. its like asking for a security code to be entered for it to start.

you can even leave the car open with the keys in the ignition and feel sorry for the robber that you actually go and show him how its done

 

thanks for the vids RJDio - helped a lot and made this fix extremely simple!

 

I am having a problem like this also, I replace the key switch, and now car will not crank by switch, so a put a starter button, the car starts but shuts off after 3-4 seconds, the light is flashing, can someone explain how to do the bypass for the stupidest of readers, im not much on electrical, I need to know the how to gage the power input out put where what setting on meter as much details as you can give would be great, I am a single disabled dad of two so I need to keep cost down as much possible, thank you in advance Fred..

 

the search button is your best friend! here you go.


https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...how-video.html

 

After you replace the key, will the security light go off on its own or is there a "special" way to rest it?

 

my security light has been on since I got the car.. runs and drives fine.. will probably get it turned off/tuned out when I get my car tuned

 

is that something that can be done with a predator or hp tuner?

 

I have a Predator tuner and I didnt find anything about the Vats in the program..

I know HP tuners can do it..

 

This thread is reigniting my hatred for the GM Passkey system... Where are those designers now, on a beach sipping margaritas?

 

Yep, that's why I bypassed that ****!

 

There isn't a tuner in the world that can tune out VATS in 4th generation f-bodies. That's because tuners work on the PCM but VATS is in the BCM and the BCM is not tunable. The best you can do with an HP tuner is tell the PCM to ignore the missing fuel enable signal from the BCM when VATS is activated. That does not resolve the problem of the starter relay being disabled.

You could use the tuner to make the PCM ignore the missing fuel enable signal and then rewire the starter relay to have an independent coil ground that doesn't rely on the BCM but you'd still have the annoying SECURITY light in the cluster. The best way is still to use resistors to bypass the key pellet sensor and keep the BCM happy - it's easy and inexpensive.

 

Since this thread has been bumped from 4 years ago I will just add my .o2 for future searches to make sure the bases are covered

The security light will stay illuminated or flash to tell you there is a problem in the system. To the guy driving around with his security light on you are very foolish, they car could leave you stranded literally the next time you try to start it

The problem is with the wiring inside of the key cylinder that contacts the resistor which is in the key. If you are lucky your key resistor may just be dirty and you can clean it off and start the car. However to have this issue fixed correctly you would need to pay for a new ignition cylinder which would come with a new key which at las check was $250 ish dollars at the dealer plus another $200 to install.

Measure the resistance in the key and put it into the socket under the column with the yellow wire. If you are just sliding the resistor into the socket be sure you are 200% sure it is in the pig tail correctly as if it is loose it will not fix your problem.

The security light took about 15 minutes of driving to go away if I remember correctly

Hitting the column with a hammer or bashing it can lead to other problems obviously

 

Wow, you never said what fixed it, was it the ignition switch? Does anyone else here know how to fix this. Getting very annoying, late for work yesterday

 

Booyah Bitches! RJDio, I watched that part three times and laughed for 15 minutes. My hero of the week. This fixed my issues....thanks for the laughs and the vid