What causes O2 insufficient switching?
07-08-2011, 01:10 AM
#1
What causes O2 insufficient switching? Okay, I just did a much needed tune up to my car to include: ACDelco plugs, MSD wires, fuel filter, pcv valve, cleaned the throttle body, and both front O2 sensors (Delphi brand). So after I fire up my car and drive it for a while the car sets the CEL with a code for "bank 2 sensor 1 low voltage". The next day it sets the same code along with another one for "bank 2 sensor 1 no activity detected". So I disconnect the battery and let it sit over night. Hook it back up and drive it. Make it about 40 miles before it sets the CEL again. This time it's a code "bank 2 sensor 1 insufficient switching". So I have the parts store order me a new sensor through the parts warranty. 2 days later I rescan the car just to make sure there isn't anything else wrong and now I have a "bank 1 sensor 1 insufficient switching". I havn't changed anything other than the parts mentioned. Did I just get 2 bad sensors or what? I thought Delphi was a brand used by GM. Am I wrong? What should I do or look for? These sensors cost me $65 a piece. Thanks guys for any input you can give. I still have my factory o2 sensors. I'm thinking about sticking them back in to see if it goes away but I don't understand how I could have gotten two bad sensors..
07-08-2011, 06:30 AM
#2
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Copied from here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...mount-faq.html
2) Other o2 sensor- (bosch 13111vette rear o2s) These have a stronger heating element, and a longer wire harness, they can often solve front o2 insufficient switching errors, due to the higher wattage heater, also they eliminate the need for extensions, as the harness is long enough to reach the stock f body o2 connector
If that doesn't work, have the codes tuned out.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...mount-faq.html
2) Other o2 sensor- (bosch 13111vette rear o2s) These have a stronger heating element, and a longer wire harness, they can often solve front o2 insufficient switching errors, due to the higher wattage heater, also they eliminate the need for extensions, as the harness is long enough to reach the stock f body o2 connector
If that doesn't work, have the codes tuned out.
07-08-2011, 01:55 PM
#3
I don't need a longer harness though. I'm still running the factory manifolds and y pipe. Was just looking for a stock replacement. That and every time I've installed a bosch part it's always gone bad. Thats why I didn't buy them to begin with.
07-08-2011, 04:07 PM
#4
Okay so I pulled out both of the front o2 sensors (which were new as I previously stated, Delphi) and put in he old factory ones that I still had. Good thing I kept them, lol. I took a picture of them. The one on the left is b1s1 and the one on the right is the b2s1. So why is the b2s1 all black and the b1s1 look like I just pulled it out of the box? Both were setting a code. I'm confused guys...
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07-09-2011, 12:49 AM
#9
I am going to just warranty out the O2's for the exact same part (Delphi) for now. The bosch are 20 bucks more each and I don't feel like paying the difference. Is it normal for this issue? I didn't have this problem before I swapped them out. I just don't get what could be causing this issue.
07-09-2011, 09:25 AM
#10
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I am going to just warranty out the O2's for the exact same part (Delphi) for now. The bosch are 20 bucks more each and I don't feel like paying the difference. Is it normal for this issue? I didn't have this problem before I swapped them out. I just don't get what could be causing this issue.
07-09-2011, 09:34 AM
#11
I tried GM's brand, AC DELCO and Delphi and I had the same results, slow switching and then I tried Bosch brand and it lasted for a little longer then then I got the same code again... Now I'm using NGK brand and it is still working perfect. No slow switching still.
07-09-2011, 02:40 PM
#12
Dude, it's the stronger heating elements in the bosch Vette one's that are your ticket to success. Just coil up the extra length and put a tyrap on it and be done with it. Or just ignore the advice in the FAQ's and keep screwing with it. I say this because I went through the exact same **** years ago. I tried to make sense of it. Finally I just swapped them. It worked.
So after some research I found what I thought was true, that delphi is an oem part. My car is completely stock aside from a lid and my magnaflow. There is no reason why I shouldnt be able to simply swap out my 112k mile o2's for a brand new delphi and have an issue unless it was a bad part. I dont understand and maybe I'll learn the hard way. Either way I'll keep this updated and comments are still welcome.
07-09-2011, 09:42 PM
#14
The vettes having stronger heaters are a load of ****. Believe it or not that myth is spread everywhere. I heard someone say it at the dragstrip one night.
I have the vette o2s in there now but iv had to replace them a few different times as well. It didnt matter what o2s I used because all I needed was a proper tune.
I have the vette o2s in there now but iv had to replace them a few different times as well. It didnt matter what o2s I used because all I needed was a proper tune.
07-10-2011, 09:20 AM
#18
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Cool.
The code is set when your O2's read too much or too little voltage.
So you're either running rich or lean, (your right O2 looks rich) you might have a bad TPS (intermittant or false readings can cause a lean or rich condition), have dirty or faulty fuel injectors, have excessive fuel pressure, have a bad or dirty MAF (clean or disconnect to see if rich/lean condition persists), have a leaking fuel pressure regulator diaphragm, your O2's could be contaminated by silicone sealer, your EVAP canister may be full of fuel, or you may have an open or dirty connection to your O2 sensors. Since it's one side, I'd look to the injectors or wiring. Your right O2 may not be lighting at all. The Merv may have called it. You can see if it's the O2 itself by swapping them. See if your trouble follows.
The reason the Vette sensors work a lot of times, is the higher wattage heaters will resist fouling and burn off residue from a slightly rich condition (most common) more efficiently than the stockers.
The code is set when your O2's read too much or too little voltage.
So you're either running rich or lean, (your right O2 looks rich) you might have a bad TPS (intermittant or false readings can cause a lean or rich condition), have dirty or faulty fuel injectors, have excessive fuel pressure, have a bad or dirty MAF (clean or disconnect to see if rich/lean condition persists), have a leaking fuel pressure regulator diaphragm, your O2's could be contaminated by silicone sealer, your EVAP canister may be full of fuel, or you may have an open or dirty connection to your O2 sensors. Since it's one side, I'd look to the injectors or wiring. Your right O2 may not be lighting at all. The Merv may have called it. You can see if it's the O2 itself by swapping them. See if your trouble follows.
The reason the Vette sensors work a lot of times, is the higher wattage heaters will resist fouling and burn off residue from a slightly rich condition (most common) more efficiently than the stockers.
Last edited by Steve Gunn; 07-10-2011 at 10:17 AM.
07-10-2011, 03:15 PM
#19
Well here is what I did. I took the o2's back and got my money back. I installed the factory o2's that I originally pulled out. The factory o2's don't set any codes and don't seem as if anything is even wrong with them. The only reason I replaced them is because of their age. That being said I gave merv a call and his suggestion is I guess what I'll stick with. That would be to just wait until I install long tubes, use these old factory sensors to run until the coating and everything is burned off, then dish out the cash for a new set of acdelcos from the dealer once I get it tuned and everything. Guess I'll use the money I got back from the sensors to put towards a pro 5.0 or something...Thanks guys. I guess I may have just gotten a rotten sensor.
